While I'm in there - rear bearing replacement
 

what do you guys recommend I swap out of the suspension components while I'm doing rear bearings? Car is at 95k and as far as I can tell everything is stock.

TIA

Are you doing the rear wheel bearings yourself?

yes, as well as coolant tank (not related, just both happened to go bad at the same time)

Did all 4 of my bearings. Ask anything if needed.

One thing I'm confused about on the bearings is does the SIR P90 tool work on all four corners or just the driven wheels? I've read conflicting information with some saying you need to buy the "master kit" and others saying the less expensive kit works on all.

I did my rear bearings a couple years back. I had access to a 55 ton press so the SIR tool never came into play.

I can see how valuable the tool would be to rear bearing R/R because you would not have to remove the parking brake components. I had a heck of a time on the passenger side getting my parking brake cable inserted through the hub. I spent more time on messing with parking brake stuff than the bearing R/R! I ended up having to file (and grease) the end of the cable jacket to get it to fit back in the hub...what a pain. No idea why as the drivers side wasn't an issue.

Just inspect components for wear. Drop links are suspect if noisy, as are the track arms.

Oh yeah, if you're ready to spend some cash, it would be a great time to do the struts!

Where is a good DIY write up on rear bearing replacement?

I wrote it up step by step and took pics. Did them in the car to not have to take off the E brake cable. I'll put this together when I get home. Fronts way easier.

Much like Pelican 101 but with several "dude with tools and access to a welder" tweaks. Not everyone has the tools those guys use.

Here's the fronts:

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/43638-wheel-bearing-tutorial-us-simple-guys.html

OK...Here we go. Looks like I never wrote up the rears.

OK. No Pics, no idea where they could be. Much is the same idea / procedure as fronts.

The axle was very difficult to separate from the hub. I used a 3-point puller and a sledge hammer to separate them. Disconnect at trans. Once the axle is pushed in, slide aside. Do your inner CV boots now.

Then I made this stand off.

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4k4ylwvu.jpg

Stand off needs to be deep enough to handle the hub & bearing depth when pulling it out.

This, a 3/4" fine thread rod, nuts, washers and the bearing / CV kit from Harbor Freight that has all the cylinder spacers and discs was all I needed. I removed the control arm ball joint to pivot the carrier around as needed. Then used the stand off to pull the bearing & hub out as described in the fronts tutorial but with the rod, bolts and washers, and that stand off. It (standoff) bent twice, thus how beefy I had to make it by just adding steel. (i only stock some mild steels for target frames and hobby stuff).

Reinstall was easy to pull it back in (make sure you freeze it 24 hours) with those spacer cylinders and the flat backer discs. Then retainer & bolts, then pressed (pulled) hub into bearing last. Axle pulls back in with the nut.

Did that make sense?

I have several reinstall pics as well. They are all of fronts, but you can see how they press in & out and what it looks like in there.

Your struts (all four) are likely to be toast at 95K. Also check all of the other suspension bushings. and CV joints/boots.

Maybe I should bite the bullet and do the M030. Since I'm in there ;)