Clear "jewel" red enamel for our crests?
 

After a week of dyeing, my three spoke steering wheel is almost ready. However, there is a small portion of the red enamel missing.

Has anyone ever repaired a crest or know of a clear red that would work? I searched through hundreds of nail polishes and even asked Google for help, but not much luck so far. I found a couple of clear red enamels made by Tamiya and Testors that modelers used for fake blood, but could not find any good pictures of the final product and I am not sure how it would work out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I have this strange feeling that I'll probably end up making my own, anyway ;)


Everybody likes some pictures, so here you go. It's a work in progress :p

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...1A7E4023BC.jpg

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...B13D4AB02A.jpg

I guess I answered my own question...must have gone search stupid for a while.
Looks like the Tamiya may be the way to go ;)

I'll experiment with making my own with red dye and clear acrylic, also (just because I do that :rolleyes: )

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...48D63631D6.jpg

I used to see the silver crests on Ebay for cheap.

I've used Testors in the past, followed by a clear coat with great results. The key is to not put in on too heavily.

Paint is too thick. Even if you cut it, it wont give you the clear (see-through) that you are looking for.

Lookup for "clear casting resin" and "clear epoxy resins". Both are excellent. For the red dye, use any organic base ones. If chemical, only use the dye that the resin manufacturer recommends.

Knock off all that red coating on that emblem, clean with acetone, heat up the emblem as hot as it can possibly be while mounted there, and apply the resin with a syringe.

Assuming you don't have a vacuum chamber, pre-heating the emblem will help for the the bubbles to escape. Avoid those at all cost ;)

Should look just like new!

Check with intrepidagent on rennlist. He does custom crests.