Well intentioned Mistakes - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

jb92563 · 03-26-2014, 12:15 PM

Got a bit of a scare on Monday at work when a fellow coworker mentioned a fluid trail in the parking lot leading under my Boxster.
I went out to discover I had apparently left a nice coolant trail the last 50' of my drive leading to the passenger rear right under the coolant reservoir.

There was a more substantial dump under the car, so perhaps a cup or two of coolant all together.

I immediately reflected back to the prior weekend when I had done an oil and filter change.
The car had its rear up on jack-stands and after I had refilled the oil I noticed the Coolant tank was nearly empty so I topped it up.
Then I took the car off the stands and topped up the oil to the proper final level.

Did you spot my mistake yet?

So back to monday at work, I checked the coolant level after work to decide whether I should attempt to drive home(15 miles) or flatbed it.
The Coolant tank was half full cold. Interesting!
I drove it home with a sharp eye to the temp and the road for any signs of further leakage....no issues.

I let it idle in the driveway till the rad and engine fans had all cycled and also cycled the heat so I knew the system still had coolant.
Stopped the engine and very SLOWLY opened the coolant cap. Pressure escaped indicating that I had a good seal on the cap even though it was an original -01 version of cap.
The pressure also confirmed that there were no holes or leaks in the cooling system as not a drop was released on the garage floor.

Essentially the initial pressure test was a good sign as I expected the water pump, a hose, or the cap to be leaking.
Interestingly the coolant level hot was nearly at the top of the tank and went down as the engine started to cool.

Then it occurred to me that those 2 extra cups of coolant that dumped at work were probably due to me adding too much coolant while up on the jack stands.
Hence coolant EXPANSION tank had lived up to its name and when there is no more room for expansion the cap or over pressure valve had to release the excess coolant.

I still need to follow pedros procedure for getting air bubbles out of the cooling system just to be extra safe, so the car will remain in the garage till the weekend.
(Darn, going to miss the Auto-X in San Diego this weekend)

So lesson learned, don't adjust coolant fluid level when the car is not level.....duh!
At least I had better sense with the oil level.

Just to be safe I ordered a water pump because at 71k miles it is still on the original and a new -04 coolant cap since the -01 are known to be trouble on occasion, and since I'm going to be wrenching in that area I added the 160F thermostat and a Tarret 4" Under drive Pulley w/belt.

Every mistake is an opportunity for upgrades

chipmunk · 03-26-2014, 01:13 PM

Glad it wasn't anything more serious! I like mistakes where you get a second chance

Dlirium · 03-26-2014, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jb92563

I still need to follow pedros procedure for getting air bubbles out of the cooling system just to be extra safe, so the car will remain in the garage till the weekend.

Would you happen to have a link for that handy?

rp17 · 03-26-2014, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dlirium

Would you happen to have a link for that handy?

Here you go.

Install 3rd Radiator & Coolant System Bleeding Instructions

seawind · 03-26-2014, 08:50 PM

As a quick note, I changed out water pump last weekend, and used Pedro's recommendation of the Airlift coolant fill system. It really, really does work awesome. I would suggest to perhaps 'drain' the coolent, save it, then replace with the Airlift. There will be no bleeding necessary, and is very quick to do.

Mark_T · 03-27-2014, 06:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seawind

As a quick note, I changed out water pump last weekend, and used Pedro's recommendation of the Airlift coolant fill system. It really, really does work awesome. I would suggest to perhaps 'drain' the coolent, save it, then replace with the Airlift. There will be no bleeding necessary, and is very quick to do.

+1 Couldn't possibly agree more. I have one and it was worth every penny (providing you have a compressor to operate it)

jb92563 · 03-27-2014, 06:26 AM

I found a bunch of "Airlift style" vacuum coolant fill systems under $80 on ebay.

I don't really understand how they work.

Do you attach a hose at the system low point to suck in the coolant and then apply vacuum at the coolant tank? Where is this low point?

From one video I saw it looks like you create a vacuum at the overflow tank and then let it suck fluid back into the system from the tank fitting.

Doesn't make sense that all bubbles get eliminated that way as its the same as just pouring in fluid from the tank ?

Can someone elaborate?

Mark_T · 03-27-2014, 07:59 AM

The tool uses a venturi system to create a vacuum and remove all the air from your cooling system (after you have drained it and closed it back up again). Once done, the gauge tells you if the system can maintain this vacuum (checks for leaks). You then disconnect from the compressor and put the fill tube in your bucket of coolant and the vacuum in the system sucks all the coolant back in. There is no air trapped if you have properly maintained vacuum conditions.

It's really quite impressive how well it works, and it completely eliminates the need to "burp" the system.

I have the actual Uview Airlift tool, not a knock-off, and can only speak for the results I obtained with this tool. I also have a decent air compressor (Dewalt 1.6hp, 15 gal tank rated for 200 psi, 5.0 CFM @ 90psi)

Dlirium · 03-27-2014, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_T

The tool uses a venturi system to create a vacuum and remove all the air from your cooling system (after you have drained it and closed it back up again). Once done, the gauge tells you if the system can maintain this vacuum (checks for leaks). You then disconnect from the compressor and put the fill tube in your bucket of coolant and the vacuum in the system sucks all the coolant back in. There is no air trapped if you have properly maintained vacuum conditions.

It's really quite impressive how well it works, and it completely eliminates the need to "burp" the system.

I have the actual Uview Airlift tool, not a knock-off, and can only speak for the results I obtained with this tool. I also have a decent air compressor (Dewalt 1.6hp, 15 gal tank rated for 200 psi, 5.0 CFM @ 90psi)

This?

http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G

Mark_T · 03-27-2014, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dlirium

This?

Amazon.com: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit: Automotive

yup, that's the one.

Dlirium · 03-27-2014, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_T

yup, that's the one.

Cool - thanks!

steved0x · 03-27-2014, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_T

yup, that's the one.

I've got one too; haven't had a chance to use it yet. I believe there may be one that is slightly less expensive, but JFP in PA likes the one linked above because it has the brass adapter and I believe can be used on more cars. I am probably going to use it on my Tacoma before I get a chance to use it on the Boxster.

Steve

jb92563 · 03-27-2014, 03:46 PM

I just ordered this one for $72 shipped, all brass, probably comes from the same plant in China where all the others are made as well.
FJC 43610 Coolant Vacuum Kit

Mark_T · 03-27-2014, 06:27 PM

No rubber sleeve to seal it to the mouth of the coolant tank. You'll have to hold it in place to use it so you'll probably need an assistant to change the mode from the compressor to the coolant bucket. Doing a lengthy vacuum test may get hard on the arms.

I predict you'll be sorry you cheaped out.