Clamps and pipes on the way!

Should I be able to remove the bolts from the flange end, or will I need to have them torched for removal? The DIY video on TS site recommends taking it to a shop to have bolts heated with torch for removal.

Thanks!

All of my bolts came off easily, except for, you guessed it, the last one. Try some penetrating lubricant first and then give it a try.

I have a fitment question with the bypass pipes.

I have a PedroBar - it is a rear brace bar - that takes up some space over the rear wheel support bracket about 1/2". The stock pipe (with cat) runs over the PedroBar, and there is very little clearance space.

I wonder if the TopSpeed bypass pipes have a bend that allows for clearance over the PedroBar.

Does anyone have the TopSpeed bypass pipes and PedroBar installed?

Or, can anyone recall if there is more or less clearance with the TopSpeed pipes vs stock?

Appreciate it!

Did you ever get rid of the drone?

I have the Pedro bar also. I bought a set of old Stebro bypass pipes that contacted the Pedro bar on the pass side. I now have the old Fabspeed design that fits fine with the Pedro bar. Maybe someone with the Topspeed pipes can measure the clearance for you.

Drone comes from cheaply built pipes with thin steel and no insulation. Leaks don't help but it's inherent with all the mass produced exhaust parts that most people can and want to afford. As one who used to build 993 sport cat and delete pipes, we got lucky In having no drone with our parts. We got poo poo'd by the die hards that said what we did shouldn't work but it did with no drone and hp/tq gains. Wish we were still in it sometimes :(
But you guys won't get zero drone with the common mass market stuff. It's not made well enough.

Just my .00002 cents ( inflation adjusted)

I moved one of the clamps towards the flange a bit today on my TS and tightened it well. Heard a creeping exhaust leak getting worse. Noise went considerably down at low rpms. I've tightened the clamps a couple of times in the past but saw how I thought one could be more effectively placed this time and think it sounds better than it ever has before. I can see how people have more predictable results with welding. Probably doesn't "fix" the drone, but man, it can get loud if there's the slightest leak.

Mine took a few washers on one side, and just one on the other mounting bracket point, and it sits only a few mms away from the heat shield. No melting, and I've run it hard in 105+ temps this august. The heat shield is some sort of metal (?) Some people might be going to unnecessary lengths (no pun intended) to get the exhaust away from the bumper, which then makes it stick out more, and not as nice looking. My .02 anyways.

Tommy,

I have the pipes and clamps recommended by Bruce, but no time install yet.

It is killing me, I cannot wait to get those pipes on! My impression is the exhaust and pipes are designed to work together.

Will give report as soon as they are installed.

BTW, I agree with Hayden, moving clamps around to improve seal improves the drone. I removed my 1.5" extension and used a couple of spacers to add some space between tips and lower bumper.

Gary

Gary,

Thanks for the response, I was thinking about getting this exhaust for my car. I have a 98, so i only have the one pair of cats. I like the thought of a little better sounding exhaust note, but i could do without the drone.

Tommy

Just wrap your headers very thigh along with the curved parts of the exhaust system. No need to wrap it all 100% to the tail. Just so the vibration is managed at some area is sufficient. You'll get rid off of 50% if not all drone

oh and with headers wrapped it makes your motor run cooler. Wraps are about the same price as the famous aftermarket thermostat... forgot the name of it. 160 or something ;)