Prospective Owner of 986 Boxster S- Need Advice
 

Guys,


It has been couple weeks that i have been looking for perfect box S for good price,
and I think i find out but, I don't know anyone that knows porsche and they prices.

So I will really need your help:)

here are the specs:
2000 Porsche Boxster S - Automatic - one owner that is a member of PCA

Arctic Silver exterior and black leather interior. 21,500 miles!!!

This car was bought new and I am the original owner. It is in Excellent condition inside and out. It has always been garaged kept. I have many modifications that set this Boxster S apart from any other that I know of.

- Tech Art Body Kit (front spoiler, rear spoiler, air intakes, rocker panels)
- Litronic Headlights, clear side markers, clear rear lights
- Interior parts painted Arctic Silver to match exterior color
- speed sensing volume control for radio
- Premium Sound System w/CD changer and iPod hook up
- Speedster cover painted Arctic Silver

Price is $20,000 but maybe I can negotiate it to hopefully 18k :D

Please let me know what you think of this price

Thanks
Peter

If you have proof of 12 oil changes, then I would be interested. Whether a car is driven or not, you still have to change the oil. Also should have changed the brake fluid a few times.

Have the car inspected by a knowledgeable mechanic BEFORE you buy it.

Does the car have windscreens? Does it have PSM (stability control)? Does it have new/newer tires? Does it have a glass rear window?

My gut is that $20K (or even $18K) for a '02S is a bit high. But it does have the TechArt body work which cost a lot to do (you can decide if it's worth the premium). I like the TechArt stuff.





/

Probably a little high for a 2000 and the tiptronics typically get less than the 6 speed manual versions of the S. If he is the original owner, you should inspect all the bills for service as with mileage that low, if he didn't change the oil annually regardless of mileage, you may be asking for trouble. Good luck!

A 2000-2004 3.2 is essentially the same car. So I wouldn't quibble too much on the year given the extremely low mileage. You've got a plastic window but its probably brand new looking from sitting in a garage. The headlights were an option on that year, and those would run you $2K today.
The body kit is a signifcant expense if you were planning to do that to a stock car. You can easily spend upwards of $5K on that. So you have to look at from the view of what you don't have to do cosmetically to keep the car looking up to date and not so much what the seller could manage to get for those items on Ebay or the classifieds. Modifying these cars is extremely expensive. The speedster humps, if OEM can easily run $700 painted. And the interior trim, which makes a huge improvement over the bare bones stock finish, can also run nearly a $1K if you do the center console and few other bits.

You did not mention wheels, it seems unlikely that someone would have put the Tech Art body kit on this car, which makes the wheel well openings much bigger, and left it on the stock 17" wheels? A decent set of 18" wheels and rubber to fill out the wheel wells probably run about $3K (Forgestar F14 is a street wheel choice).

I would deduct a few ponts for automatic unless that's what you were planning to buy from the start. And if its not a dual row IMS you might have to budget $1-$3K to do an aftermarket swap depending on if you go with the Pelican bearing (changed every ~50K miles) or the LNE permanent never do it again Solution. Low mileage, single bearing makes for prime candidates of IMS trouble. Definitely something I would do given that you'd be paying on the high side for a 986.

Otherwise, I don't think the car will be unreasonably priced if it passes a PPI and leak down test and the seller is willing to go down a few grand.
But since most buyers with $20K to spend will want a newer model like the 987, the seller isn't going to have a long line of people wanting to bid.
So low mileage helps as well as it hurts unless someone comes by and sees the condition, the upgrades and just got tired of checking out 7 beaten down Boxsters in a row. Depending on the zip code's income, it could go quickly. Personally I think 20K - 60K miles is the mileage range you want to be in and out of for out of warranty Porsches, unless there has been extensive maintenance (ask me how I know this).

Thanks for your feedback guys!
I will ask seller those questions

I forgot to add that this car has HID Headlights with no amber, Upgraded Tail lights

It is really hard to find descend boaster S with tiptronic in Illinois , most of them are manuals or tip but with high mileage of 80-120 and they go for 13-17k !!

and even if i buy cheaper box with more mileage i will still put money into it to De-Amber, different tail lights put spoiler, side skirts, just to make it more up to date and little more aggressive :)and that alone would cost me 2-4k
here are the pics
http://images.craigslist.org/00N0N_c...af_600x450.jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/00t0t_9...8q_600x450.jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/00A0A_7...m2_600x450.jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/00W0W_c...h6_600x450.jpg

Thank you Perfectlap

The wheels are stock 18" that come with Boxster S

And yes i need automatic, it is much easier to find stick than auto here in IL

So lets say car is close to be perfect,

How can i knock down few grand? I think if it the price would be 17.5k i would go there today and buy it:)

Another S i found is $17.9k with 47k miles,bone stock from some dealer that got it from auction ....

And everything else is either high mileage or manual

I did my research and test drove 350z , bmw Z4,audi TT and when the other cars seems to be little more comfortable the boxster is the most fun!!!(but whats up with steering wheel that dosesnt tilt and seats that dont go up/down???)

in the end you have to be happy with price/value. You know what you have seen. I think it is a bit high but again, you have to be happy in the end. Get a PPI, that may give you some negotiating leverage. show up with 17.5K in cash, that is great leverage! There is value in the body kit, de-amber etc. Good luck.

It reads to me that you've pretty much sold yourself on this particular example. It also reads that you'd like to buy it for $17.5-$18k.

Why not submit an offer for what you'd be wiling to pay, contingent upon a clean PPI, and review of records?

The worst the seller could say is no. If anything imperfect shows up on the PPI or the records, you could use that as a bargaining chip.

TO

Those are 17" stock wheels for the 2000 Boxster S.
Visually, 18" wheels would make a huge improvement with aero treatment.
I was expecting a whole Tech Art bumper and not just spoilers. So maybe they
add a little less than I thought originally. But with the painted bumperettes, and
everything else that has been painted to match, I would add at least another $1,000 - $1,500.
I think it shows that the exterior and interior has been well looked after.

The value in this car is the low mileage, good paint condition and the expensive Litronic headlights. The other modifications add a little more but I wouldn't let the seller push them as a huge increase in the value over another Boxster S with similar mileage. If the car had a lot more mileage those modifications wouldn't be pushing the value up considerably higher.

I would check the Excellence Magazine buyer's guide to see where they price a 2000 3.2 in tiptronic with mileage that low.

p.s.
How much mileage are you planning to add to this car each year?

The seats do go up and down - look for a horizontal lever on the side of the seat by the fwd-back control. And this is just my opinion, but I think the speed humps look kinda ghey on that car

I'm planing to add max 2k miles per year, driving the car for 5-6 months and store it for winter, I walk to work so i would only use the car for pleasure and trips out of town.

yeah after checking out high mileage boxsters that go for around 15k this looks like a not a bad deal,

I would love to live in California and have much better selection of cars:)

P.S Just got Excellence Magazine buyer's guide - time to do more homework

Seller answered my questions:

Does the car have windscreens?
The car does have windscreens
Does it have PSM (stability control)?
The car does not have PCM
Does it have new/newer tires?
I put new tires on the car last year in the spring and have only one season wear on them. I put very few miles on them last season. They are in almost new condition
Does it have a glass rear window?
The car does not have a glass rear window
How often did you change the oil?
I changed the oil every year prior to storing for the winter
Was the brake fluid changed?
Brake fluid has never been changed as it was not recommended by the German Specialty shop I take her to
Would be possible to inspect the car before the purchase?
You may inspect her anytime you wish

Where does Excellence put the car? I'm curious to hear what the first 3.2 Boxster can still command.

Let us know when you pick her up. :)

TO

You forgot to ask:

"Will you take $17,500 in cash tomorrow for the car?"


and also, when you buy it - change the brake fluid immediately. It needs to be changed out every 2-3 years (and it's been 11...?). Probably change the cabin filter and the air filters too. The "lifetime" coolant is really only intended for 6 years.

Good luck with whatever you decide.



/

Great looking car and its an S with 250 hp. $18,500 cash will do it, nice compromise especially with those low miles. Looks similar to mine.

cheershttp://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1375268822.jpg

Thanks for all your responses , it is very helpful for me!
and I found another one, this time 2003 boxster S with 60k miles,
what do you guys think about this one? is it much of the difference between 2000 and 2003?
2003 Porsche Boxster S

The wheel comes forward and back, and the seat does raise and lower, but its manual and you have to know the trick to doing it.

The 2003 looks nice, you will get a glass window and a glove box. Personally, I would go with your original 2000. Go over there with your offer and see what happens.

Yeah, there is something that that i like about 2000 one more than 2003 :) and carfax looks really nice with all services detailed, also i found out on carfax that
Brake fluid flushed/changed and Oil and filter changed in by the end of 2011 when car had 20k miles
it is a 2.5 hour drive to see the car, Maybe i should give my offer to the guy over the phone?

IF you pick it up make sure you get the brakes flushed. Porsche receommends that they are done every two years regardless of mileage.

The main difference between the 2000 and the 03 is going to be a glove box, glass rear window, and a little more HP in the 2003. It seems silly, but the glove box is really nice to have, and there is a reason so many replace the top with a glass window. No more "chop" when putting down the top.

With that said, you will LOVE either one.

Interesting that 40K additional miles of wear and tare still puts you in the same general price point simply because its 3 years newer despite the car being 90% the same as the much lower mileage 2000 S.

My Boxster S had barely 9K on the odometer, it was literrally showroom condition as that's where it was sitting when I came in to check it out. So I passed on newer Boxster S's to go for the mileage. Thus defying the conventional Porsche wisdom of "buy the newest Porsche you can afford".
I think the wisdom should be dictated by "how many miles do you plan to put on the car?". The odometer range of 10K to 50K seems to be the most trouble free as early issues have been ressolved in warranty and most major items are good for at least 40K miles.

Climate Control
 

Hello,
I have a 2002 Boxster S and I would like to know if anyone knows how to change form farenheit to celcius on the climate control unit? Thanks. Mauricehttp://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1375289376.jpg

momo, I don't have my manual in front of me but I believe that with the ignition on, if you turn the adjustment knob to the right of your tachometer to the left (counterclockwise) and hold for 5-10 seconds, it will change miles to kilometers and should also change the temperature reading to metric.

Brad

PS My car is a Canadian spec one that was originally delivered in metric and I assume that the yours is US spec - it may be that the temperature display on the HVAC controls do not change simultaneously.

When selling a car or anything for that matter, I get lots of emails, texts, and sometimes calls asking if I will take XXXX? For me, I don't take anyone serious unless they are standing in front of me. You really need to do it in person. There is something different about a buyer who is standing in front of you with cash in hand, ready to buy. Just my opinion of course.

You absolutely right, I would defiinatelly do that it he car would be close to me,
I just dont want to do 2.5 hrs of driving one way to get my offer turned down, or seller will take an advantage of that I drove that far to get that car that means i can pay his price....

opinions suggestions?


P.S you guys are way more helpfull than VWVortex members when i was buying my CC :D

2 1/2 hours to get a car is nothing. Just a nice morning drive. And ALWAYS be willing to walk away.

When I go to look at, and possibly buy, a car I already have a price in my head that I am willing to pay. If I can't get it for that, then I walk.

Car seems nice and also well maintained. The speed humps and plastic body work do nothing for me, so that would not affect what I would be willing to pay. You want a Tip, and as you are finding out not so many of those.

I sure wouldn't pay $20K for that car. But that is just me.

I flew from Dallas to Atlanta to get mine. I work for an airline so the ticket cost wasnt a factor but it still cost me my time if it didn't work out. Of course I also had to drive it back:D I felt it was worth the risk because the car was exactly what I wanted. Buyer obviously knew that I was serious, and I got a fantastic price. If it is really what you want, make a day of it and drive out there. Or, just call and ask your price. It's up to you.:cheers:

I sold my previous car to a guy who boarded a plane from FL to NJ. I picked him up at the terminal and he drove it right back to Florida after I filled the tank for him.

But when I was on the phone with him the day before I made it crystal, please do not show up with less than the amount we agreed to because I would hate for you to have to go home empty handed.

I would make the 'pending PPI and leak down' offer for X amount put it in writing with your signature on it, a blank line for his name, with a note that says if the PPI and leak down result in needed repairs that you are free to revisit your offer price.
email it to him. He doesn't need to sign it just shows what you're prepared to pay before you make the trip. If you like how the car looks and drives, put a deposit on it and ask him to sign on the blank line so he doesn't sell it to someone with a higher offer.

Update:

Got the car!!!
For the price i was asking for:)

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oV.../IMAGE_32.jpeg

Congrats. Looks great!

2 years ago I paid 21K for an 03 S with 21,500 miles. Basically stock, but with all records and good history. YMMV

Thanks!

I like everything about the car but the wheels they are pushed in too much especially rear wheels

Are there any spacers i can use to pushe them out close to fender?

Any wheel recommendation? Size wise?

I bought 18's for mine that came from a 911. Because of that, I had to get 20mm spacers which I got from Wheel Dynamics. Give Eli a call (you can find his number on the site) or shoot him an email. The quality of the spacers is excellent and they are hub centric plus I found the price reasonable. I am still debating on pushing the fronts out a bit to even them out with the rears.

Congrats on a great car and for the price you wanted:cheers:

Original wheels:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1376239678.jpg

New wheels:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1376239786.jpg

Spacer(the calipers have since been painted):
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1376239822.jpg