Those of you with multiple water pump failures
 

How often did you check the coolant level after installing the prematurely failed pump? Was the coolant level always at the hash marks in the first year?

Looks like I've got another air bubble in mine after a very recent installation of pump #2. I'm starting to wonder if this is the culprit of so many failed pumps. Getting all the air out looks like its a time-consuming process if done correctly.

That is the number one reason I bout the uView Airlift 550000 vacuum system. Figured it was the easiest way to make sure I didn't have an air bubble and easiest way to fill it. I don't regret the $110 I spent on it at all.

Are you installing Porsche water pumps or those Laso ("OEM") pumps?

Wait a cotton pickin minute...you mean to tell me a $90 (Amazon) vac will do the trick? What are mechanics using in their own shops?

This water pump job at a $1000 shop rate is not something you want to screw up needlessly.

+1 - works great. Well worth the money. Gotta have a decent compressor to use it though.

Airlift is the only way to go with these cars. I find what kills more pumps than anything is people choosing the cheapest replacement pump. A close second comes from debris in the cooling system that remains after one pump fails, which takes out the next pump in short order.

Pumps are not created equally and cheap parts sources don't know this, because they don't live, eat and breathe engines.

Uview actually makes the Porsche OEM tool that sells for north of $700, and looks just like the one sold on Amazon for around $100, only it does not have a Porsche logo and part number on it.

So this may seem like an obvious question but does using the cheap pump create more clean up when pump #3, #4 is installed? Or are they 'clean' premature failures? If so it sounds like another reason not to go cheap.

which makes me wonder who would needlessly pay the premium. This doesn't seem like an item a person unfamiliar with wrenching would pick up.

I'd never heard of the uView Airlift 550000 until I researched the P-Car water pump replacement. But having burped the car during the flush (I filled it and emptied it three times) before my uView came in that I can tell you from experience that the vacuum method is definitely preferable.

what kind of compressor do you have?

Perfectlap, I have a small 3 gallon compressor. It is a bit small, but I was still able to use it to get to 25 PSI on the uView (24 ~ 26 PSI recommended). I did have to go through a couple of cycles. Start the compressor and start the vacuum, flip the switch on the uView to hold the vacuum, let the compressor come back up to 100 PSI, flip the switch on the uView, etc. Took two or three cycles to get it there. Held pressure for several minutes as suggested to test for leaks, then swapped in the other hose with the 5 gallon bucket of coolant and let it fill.

I've got the Dewalt D55168 1.6 HP, 200 PSI, 15 Gallon. It's got all the capacity I need to run air tools plus, being a vertical tank, has a relatively small footprint. I picked it up slightly used for $200, and the guy threw in an impact gun, an air ratchet, and 25' of hose.

ah impact gun. Now that's a score.

Interesting. I checked with my indy and they said they use one of these.
Which makes me wonder why the coolant level would have dropped by roughly the same amount twice now since replacing the water pump in May. I've only driven the car a few times, but the driving is typically over an hour, so it seems like an enough time for a possible bubble to re-emerge.
If I had a hose issue I would imagine that the coolant would have dropped by a much bigger amount after a month now. Both times I could only see the coolant in the tank if I pulled back the carpeting. Sounds like a bubble right?

Perfect... You may not have a coolant leak...
Did you drive with the coolant tank bleeder valve flipped open after the new pump was installed?
After replacing the pump / fluid it is advisable to open the bleed valve and leave it open for several heat cycles or for a few days driving - this usually gets rid of any small air pockets left in the system. If your mechanic used the manual way of filling the system (like I do as I don't have an Airlift) the chances of air pockets are more than even. Driving with the coolant tank showing full and the bleed valve opened usually results in the level dropping untill all the air is purged. Top up as required.

^ nope my mechanic said they used the vacuum fill. Which makes me wonder why there was a bubble the first time around let alone the second.

Well, why not try flipping up the vent valve and see if the coolant level stays the same over a few heat cycles......

I thought you're not supposed to do that after using vacuum fill? Someting about letting in more air that could turn into a bigger problem upstream.

after the heads were off my car I had to top up the coolant twice. Been fine since. I don't know what process the mechanic used though.

^ how low did the coolant get (relative to the has marks) before you topped it off each time?

Perfectlap, I hate to say this, but crawl under your car and look for leaks. I replaced all my hoses and clamps and found that one of the hoses to the front radiator was leaking. I lost enough coolant in 6 weeks to drop my reservoir to the minimum mark. I repositioned the clamp and it seems to have stopped. Will know more after my trip.