Driver's Window Doesn't Drop When Opening Door
 

Hi All,

Just bought an 00 Boxster S with 41k on the odo. I noticed the driver's window doesn't drop to clear the roof line when you pull the door handle, both outside and inside (pass side works fine). You can tell the motor moves the window VERY slightly though, when you just put pressure on the handles as if you were going to open the door.

I thought it could be the window regulator even though the window goes up/down with the buttons and the key/lock/hold function just fine, but another tell tale sign is the radio stays on when the car is shut off and the red radio security light stays flashing when I turn the ignition on, making me think it's a micro controller (not exactly sure which part this is yet).

Any ideas? Can I rule one out?

Thanks in advance, I'm so stoked to own my first Porsche. :dance:

typical for these cars. Micro-controller, regulator and motor. I've replaced 'em all at some point...



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Thanks for the quick reply! Do you have a part number by any chance?
Is it one or all 3?

1 more thing...the windows both drop normally when the convertible top latch is released, making me think it can't be the regulator since it works normally for the top, just not the door handles.

Go ahead an change the regulator and motor. I did the window regulator first and still had slack as the motor's drive mechanism had some play in it. After I changed the motor, my passenger side window worked perfectly. I found a new OEM Porsche motor on EBay for a 100 bucks. You might have to hunt a little, but you should be able to find the parts for less than $250. Good luck!

If the regulator isn't broken yet, you can fix it by just taking up the slack in the regulator cable. I added a barrel adjuster for a bicycle brake cable on mine and it has fixed it for several years now. My cost was zero, but I expect they are somewhere between 30 cents and 3 dollars. Too see if there is too much slack in the cable lower the window 1/2 way down and then grab the glass and see if it moves up and down excessively. I posted instructions on this easy repair a few years ago, but since then all of the photo I posted have been deleted off the website I was using.

Thanks for the regulator test, Dave. I'm going to try that out now.

I assume the regulator is fine because the window drops correctly when I unlatch the top. This should isolate the problem to the door. Either way, I'll report back on the regulator slack.

Anyone have part numbers for the micro-controllers?

Here is the original thread. Unforutanely the pics have been deleted. Turns out the cable doesn't stretch, but apparently a small plastic guide breaks causing the slack.

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/25704-window-regulator-permanent-fix-stretched-cable-3.html

I see there are some pics from some others on this forum in the thread and the link on to how to remove the interior door panel, so this thread should give you an idea of how to fix it.

Almost 100% certain it is the regulator only. Typically, the window won't drop when the door is opened because there is slack in the cable. When you open the top, the slack gets taken up and the windows appear to drop evenly about 2". I'd bete if you measured things really precisely, you'd find the windows don't drop exactly the same amount when the top is unlatched.

As others have suggested, there are two options. One is replace the regulator. The other is to brake cable adjustment.

Good luck.

I did the bicycle cable adjuster thing about 3 years ago. Still works like the day I fixed it.

Thanks guys. I bit the bullet and ordered the window regulator. Not too bad of a price on Amazon (120ish) with free shipping. Funny how the regulator in my A4 cost about half for pretty much the same thing with different dimensions. Porsche premium?

I'll report back when I install.

Hope this solves the radio and miles-light-in-gauge-cluster staying on when turning the car off issue too.

I would suspect the ignition switch for any random electrical gremlins.




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Regulator shipped, finally. I had to source it from somewhere else. PSA: URO regulators are backordered everywhere.

Hope to get it in soon. Will report back.

Update: I put the new regulator in yesterday and it fixed the problem. Although nothing was broken, I noticed the original regulator's cables were stretched and didn't have the same tension as the new one. I suppose this is the reason the window wasn't dropping enough.

After paying more attention to how much they drop, I'm noticing the passenger side (original regulator) is also not dropping as much as it should. I'll probably end up changing that one as well.

Side note: That plastic screw under the door panel armrest is completely useless, strips and doesn't back out!

The miles light in the gauge cluster stays on on all 986's. It's not suppose to turn off until you lock the door with the key or remote.

Thanks, I realized that after I posted. BUT, my radio still stays on, even after the key is removed from the ignition.

There is a solution for a stretched cable where you use a couple of zip ties. I think it's on Pelican.

Update to this thread:

I changed the passenger side window regulator, hoping it would solve the same problem, however, the window still isn't dropping. When I lift the door handle enough to make it drop, I can hear it trigger something (very briefly) but the window doesn't drop still with a brand new regulator.

Any suggestions? Could it be the micro controller?

Does the window drop when pulling (interior) or lifting (exterior) the door handles, and then goes back up when the handles are released?

Check bad electric wires or rusty connector to motor, it could be that too.. moist stay inside door for long time..