Creaking Front Right
 

OK - I've done the searches on front squeaking/creaking.
Out of nowhere this happened with no previous issues.
I drove 15 - 20 miles yesterday in the am absolutely nothing. Then mid afternoon I drive about 12 miles, turn right into a parking lot and all kinds of squeaking/creaking starts coming from Front Right suspension as I make the right turn in.
-No noise on straight drive
-No noise on left turn
- - very pronounced on right turns
-No clunking, just creaking, not metallic but dry rubber squeaking
-A little squeak when bouncing when I hit brakes or push on fender
- - The shock is still very stiff pushing down on fender
-There is no play in suspension when I jacked up and wrestled the wheel around

Turning/pushing the wheel left and right, seems like noise is coming from top of shock mount.

Searches here and web indicate these rubber bushing may be the culprit (I went straight for lower control arms)

I tried spraying lube in there but it did nothing
I drove in the rain today and after 5 miles it stopped, as expected

Anyone had similar experiences?
Can the shock bushing be pulled out without removing the shock?


Thanks in advance

Similar noises on my 2003S. Seems worse in hat weather or after I've driven the car for a while.

Be interested to see what you find.

The usual culprit is the ball joint. A common temporary fix is to poke a tiny hole in the dust cover and spray some lube in there.

Not just lube, but grease. Products such as wd40, for example, can actually make things worse by washing away the grease.

Brad

It's my understanding that the ball joints are dry, not grease filled.

There is no grease fitting. However, Pedrosboard has a thread or two on people who have eliminated the problem by cleaning the rubber dust cover, cutting a small hole and inserting grease then sealing the cover back up with silicone. I haven't tried it myself, but those who have suggest that wd40 will only make it worse.

Brad

I have also read these theories of spray greasing, not WD40. It would certainly diagnose the problem if it quiets down for a while after lubrication.
Since it is suppose to be dry for the next few days, it's an option I'm going to explore if I can zero the noise in that area

It just happen so fast without warning

and while the car's up and the wheel's off, I'd suggest placing a jack under the rotor and raising it to full compression, then release the jack, quickly and repeat-up and down and see if the problem shows itself. Be careful you're not lifting the car off the jackstand- you just want to cycle the suspension. It may be just a balljoint that needs lube or it could be the bearing race at the top of the strut assembly. This is only a $35 part but it has an important job as it allows the strut assembly to rotate as you steer. To replace it the strut must come out and be disassembled. You can check it by using a 2 or 3 jaw puller to remove the tie rod end -then you can turn the assembly through it's rotation- it should feel smooth and well oiled-like any healthy bearing. Ahhh , the joys of owning an aged car!

Suspension creak fix?

This is the thread from pedroboard I was talking about. I suspect that its worth a try.

Brad

if there's no grease in there then what IS there? 2 hardened surfaces and air? Graphite? Secret German stuff? Anybody ever taken one apart because there may be a preventative measure that can stop wear from occurring.

I just cut the rubber boot off of an old ball joint from my Porsche 914, and there was grease in there for sure.

It might look like grease but the bearings in the modern Porsche are a plastic silicon type bearing. Before I replaced my noisy drop links, I prized open the top of the dust seal and injected lithium grease from a pressurised can. It certainly worked but as I was going to replace the drop links, I used the Lithium only as a temporary measure.
Most creaking comes fron either the roll bar bushes or the balljoints - again for a TEMPORARY fix for the balljoints, get a large syringe from the chemist (drugstore?) fill it with Lithium from a pressurised can and inject it into the rubber dust boot. A spot of silicon sealer should then stop any ingress of moisture or dirt.

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