New cooling fans , will not run.
 

Installed new fans , old had stopped running. The new installed ones will not work ether.
I can turn on with the Durametric and I can hear the relay click under the dash, but no running radiator fan. I can wire direct into the relay port and turn them on that way. The fuses are good and the relays are too. Don't know what I'm missing. Does any one have a thoughts on this?

Thank you,
Kashmir http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1369439002.jpg

Kashmir..
If the Durametric is switching the fans on, then (as far as I know) this proves the DME circuitry is functional. Do the fans come on (low speed) when you switch on the A/C ? Also the ballast resistors mounted under the front spoiler could be faulty.
My coolant does have to get really hot before the high speed fans switch on - even in heavy traffic they rarely come on when the A/C is running.

Maybe it is not hot enough, will play with it tomorrow.

+1
If Durametric is switching the fans on/off on both low & high speeds you should be good to go.

There is an easy test you can perform which doesn't depend on coolant temperature. A couple of others have already mentioned it indirectly.

Start the car (important) and switch on the AC. If the fans are functioning properly (and the Durametric suggests that they are), the fans will run in low speed regardless of the coolant temperature.

So the fans started working, drove 10 min, everything stopped working and now can't turn them on with the Durametric. I've now direct wired them to an on off switch for now. May just re-engineer the whole mess.

Adjustable Fan Controllers with Radiator Probes
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1369503317.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1369503363.jpg

Have a look at this which I got off the Renn Tech Forum for you, it may help ....

There are four relays in total. Two for the left fan, and two for the right. The first stage (or slow speed) relays - one for each side, are paralleled and will switch together, also the full speed relays are paralleled and will switch together too. They are switched directly from the DME, whether it decides the AC requires them or the engine is too hot.

The resistors being in circuit make the motors turn more slowly. If you're getting high speed but not low speed, the resistors are burned out"

A very easy way to test the resistors without having to dive under the car, is to remove relay 19 & 20. Measure the resistance between pin 5 (87) of socket 19 and pin 5 (87) of socket 20. This should be 0.55ohm. Remove relay 21 & 22 and repeat. Again, 0.55ohm.

After all that, the temperature sensor is a split NTC device that has one sensor for the instrument cluster and one for the DME. One can go bad without the other, hooking the car up to a diagnostic computer will show this straight away.

Thank you will do today and let you know. :cheers:

The test at .63 ohm on all, I'm can sometime activate with durametric, but sometime it will fail, like a problem with the dme. Don't know.

"After all that, the temperature sensor is a split NTC device that has one sensor for the instrument cluster and one for the DME. One can go bad without the other, hooking the car up to a diagnostic computer will show this straight away."

The 5.2 dme does not show this data. :(