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Radio switching off and on and lights flickering - Now baffled
Hi All,
I am getting really baffled about this odd problem.. The Radio switches off whenever the revs drop below 1000 and then comes back on again, and sometimes when anything else is switched on it will go off and on again too, also the lights flicker too but when the car has run for 30 mins or so, all is good ! I've replaced the ignition switch, checked the Alternator, Battery, connections to Radio, Instrument Cluster, Grounds including Engine Ground and even driven with a meter connected to check for Voltage drops or spikes etc. The main power to the Radio doesn't drop off completely as the Radio never asks for the Code. Battery Voltage is a constant 13.9v with engine running and never drops below 12.5v when left for a few days. I've read many posts where people have the same or similar problems but never seen a post where someone has finally cracked the problem ! Anyone with any words of wisdom or any advise please ? This is driving me bonkers ! Forgot to say, this is a 98 with 168,000 and still running strong ! :cheers: Thanks Guys ! |
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Headlights and dash lights flickering - as if voltage was varying very quickly.
Cheers. |
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There are 14 Ground Points on your model year Boxster, I would start with cleaning and tightening Ground Point 13 which is the the cable connected to the negative side of the battery, chassis end of the cable connection.
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Hi Jager,
I think I've cleaned and checked every ground point on this thing. I've been through the Circuit Diagrams many times and just can't understand whats going on, unless there is something somewhere drawing a excessive amount of current which is then not noticeable when the alternator/Battery reaches saturation point . Must be time for a drink ! :cheers: |
Have you tried putting a battery charger on the battery and see what happens at idle?
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Theres a good chance tht you voltage regulator (mounted inside your alternator) is breaking down under load and perhaps your battery charge rate is suffering too.
A simple test (with a multimeter) is to check your battery static voltage - it should be ~12.6v cold - then check the charge voltage @ +/- 1,500 rpm which should be 13.5 - 14.5 v. This is just a general test because the alternator could be breaking down under load, in which case you need to conduct load tester to your alternator...... |
Thanks for the tips guys but have already done everything mentioned :confused:
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Hi Jager,, Yes same problem. However !
My Wife has gone out to play at the shops, so I'm left alone to do some serious tinkering ! I thought I would start with a proper look at the Current distributor - I'm glad that I did. Every terminal an nut had light corrosion on them. I removed each link and cleaned every terminal, link and also replaced each nut with a nice shiny new one ! I then went to reconnect the Positive side of the Battery and thought I would cut off the sleeve at the Current Dist' end I'll say no more .. See below. Hopefully once I've replaced the Cable my problems 'might' be solved ? http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/Bat+1358621582.jpghttp://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1358621628.jpg |
:dance: Radio and Lights now normal !!!!!!!! I'm thinking that the main culprit was the Current Distributor but I guess it could have been a combination of both.
Hope this helps someone else with the same or similar problems. :) |
Glad you found it. If you were having the same issues with a battery charger on the battery it had to be something major like a main cable break-down.
Happy Boxstering!:cheers: |
I'm surprised you were able to start the car.
This cable was probably getting very hot with every start. |
After new + Cable installed and Current distributor given a new lease of life, the difference is quite amazing ! The Boxster must be a greedy animal when it comes to current.
The old + Cable was less than 1/4 corroded through and had never had any trouble starting at all. I've noticed when driving now, that there is no hesitation and the revs pick up very quickly. When depressing the clutch and letting the revs drop off, they never drop below 800 now, where as before they would drop to almost 200 before idling around 900. The Current distributor fuse-able links had square washers between them and the shake-proof nuts, so even more area available for corrosion. I removed the washers on all terminals and replaced the nuts with new ones after thoroughly cleaning all posts and links etc. I can certainly recommend servicing the Current Distributor on these older Boxsters ! :D |
Where is the "Current distribution"?
Hi
I have the same problem and would like to check my "current distribution" but were would I find it? Thanks James |
Where would I find the current distribution connections?
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