60k Maintainence
 

Does anyone have a list of what is redone/replaced at the 60k check up? How much does labor go for at a dealership,because I will have Suncoast supply the parts.

I don't have a list with me but here's what I remember:

Replace:
1) Oil & Filter (Porsche recommends Mobil1 0W40)
2) Plugs (I recommend the plug o-rings too)
3) Fuel Filter
4) Cabin Filter
5) Air Filter
6) Serpentine Belt
7) Idler Rollers (It's not on the maintenance list, but they seem to wear out quickly and bearings can fly causing lots of trouble. All 3 rollers w/ bushings are about $150 at Sunset and easy to do when the serpentine belt is off. If you hear a vibration noise behind your seats, it's probably the idler rollers or alternator.)
8) Differential Oil (special triple-square socket is needed. I can get the size at home if you need it)
9) Brake Fluid (if it has not been changed in the past 2 years during brake changes, but personally I prefer annually)

Lubricate:
Top Joints
Clamshell Sliders & Joints

Check:
CV Boots
Water Hoses
Fuel Rails/Hoses
Air Hoses
Wheel Bearings & Ball Joints

Shouldn't the brake fluid be changed every 2 years too?

What brake fluid should I buy before I take it in to have the brake fluid changed?

I have heard good things about stuff called super blue or something like that.

Porsche sells their own brake fluid in 1 liter cans, part number 000-043-203-33. Otherwise any quality DOT 4 fluid can be used.

Good stuff!

Castrol Response DOT 4
Synthetic Brake Fluid
Modern driving conditions place increasing demands on your car's braking system. Castol Response Synthetic Brake Fluid has been engineered to maximize braking response, when you need it most. Advanced Formulation offers extended braking system protection. Anti-Vapor Lock performance maintains braking response.

For use where a DOT 4 fluid is recommended. Castol Response DOT 4 is a high performance brake fluid that far exceeds all requirements of FMVSS 116 DOT 4, Compatible with other brake fluids meeting FMVSS 116 DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1.

Trust nothing less - Extended Braking Performance
Only for use in hydaulic systems requiring conventional brake fluid DOT 3 / 4. Must not be used in systems requiring mineral oil. Click on the bottle below to go straight to Castrol Response Synthetic Brake Fluid in our online catalog.

Not just any DOT4 should be used. The specs on Porsche's fluid (especially the boiling point) are higher than most OTC fluids.

My personal favorite is the ATE SuperBlue or Gold racing fluid just because the boiling point is higher than Porsche's. I use it in all of my cars. Brucelee's sounds good too and I'm sure it meets Porsche's specs if he uses it.

John makes a good point that I forgot. Making sure a product meets Porsche spec is always a nice check. The guys in Stuttgart are pretty particular and I agree with them most times (except on the 20K mile oil change thing!)

:cheers:

Blinkwatt, here is some additional info regarding break fluid from the PCA Tech Site, I hope it's helpful:

"Ate Super Blue has a higher boiling point than the factory fluid.

Factory: Dry: 500F
Wet: 356F

Ate: Dry: 536F
Wet: 392F

The dry boiling point is for brand new virgin fluid in its non contaminated state out of the can.

The wet boiling point is for brake fluid that has been fully saturated with moisture.

I would to recommend to replace the stock fluid with Super Blue if you plan to track the car.

Peter Smith - PCA WebSite - 7/23/2003"

Would ATE be street effecient? I do not plan on tracking my car in the near future.

Yep. I have never tracked my cars, but use it in all of them. I like it for every day because it's better than the Porsche fluid for 1/3 of the cost ($10-$15/quart). They call it racing fluid because it's made to handle frequent, hard braking.

With the Porsche fluid and regular DOT4, I have been in situations where I was braking a lot and it got over boiling point causing the brakes to flutter (and let go :eek: ). The boiling point lowers as the fluid ages so it's nice to start with a 100F advantage. ;)

How many quarts of brake fluid would I need to do this job?

One should do it, but I always get two in case I mess up. Just make sure you don't open the second quart unless you are using it because you have to throw out whatever is left over once it's opened.

A great tool that makes one-man brake bleeding a breeze is the Motive Power Bleeder. You can get one for $39 at http://928gt.com. Just search for part number 928.MP.PBLEED It fits all Porsches.

Does anyone have any pictures illustrating how to bleed the brakes? I am willing to try this but I do not know where to start,what to do etc.

no pix, but a good write-up here:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/bleed_and_flush/

Siphoning the Reservoir

If you are doing a complete flush, things will go faster if you first siphon off the excess of old fluid from the reservoir. Unscrew the reservoir cap and remove the filter screen with a pair of tweezers or pliers. You can use a turkey baster to suck out as much fluid as possible from the reservoir and put it into the used fluid container. Don't put the baster back in the kitchen when you're done. You really don't want to ingest any brake fluid. Top up the reservoir with fresh fluid, or if you're using a Power Bleeder, fill up the pressure bottle and hook it up according to its instructions.

One thing you don't want to do is to take so much fluid out of the reservoir, that you cause air to be sucked into the lines. Then you'd have to flush the entire system again.

If you're just bleeding the system, not flushing, then don't drain the reservoir -- you'll just be topping it up as you go. If you're using a Power Bleeder to bleed (not flush), this is also where you fill it up, pump it up, and attach it.

What is the difference between flushing and bleeding? Where is the reservoir that the author speaks of?

Bleeding is the actual procedure of pushing fluid through the system to get a trapped bubble out. Flushing is using the bleeding procedure to change the fluid out completely.

The brake fluid reservoir is in the front trunk on the driver's side. There's a black cap on it that says "use only DOT4....." BE CAREFUL! Brake fluid will eat your paint so use a fender cover.

Using a power bleeder keeps you from having continuously top off the reservoir since it holds up to 3 quarts of fluid.

With the power bleeder (PB), all you do is use the baster to get the old fluid out of the reservoir, fill the reservoir with fresh fluid, screw the PB to the top of the reservoir, pump the PB to 10-15psi, put a clear tube on the bleeder nipple at the wheel then unscrew the bleeder nipple until the fluid flows out. Once the new fluid is all you see, tighten the bleeder nipple back and pop the tube off. Go to the next tire.

The advantage of Super Blue is it's blue. Your old fluid is probably gold so you can easily see when the fluid is changed. Next time, you use the ATE gold racing fluid so you can easily see when it's changed, and so on.

I just recently did my own 60K service. I would recomend getting a new serpentine belt while you have your tools out. I bought my parts at: http://www.pap-parts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BXT%20TUNE%20UP%20KIT
they gave me a very good package price on 60k kit, rotors, pads, belt, power bleeder, and ATE super blue. There listed prices were not the best but they worked hard to match other "credible" prices. I'm extremely happy w/ my ATE fluid.

What do you connect to the outside bleeder screw to let the old brake fluid drain through?