How much more labor to reach IMS after transmission is pulled?
 

So my local shop is going to pull the tranny out due to a leak and I'm sending it over to the guys at Motor Meister for a "dealer repair". Since the tranny is out, about how much more hours of labor is required to reach and inspect the IMS bearing? Is this a good time to access it?

It's a good time to stop it from going to motor sheisters as soon as possible...And yes a great time to change the IMS. Better google MM and do a search here too.

yeesh.. i didn't know. Any recommendations for shops that can repair a cracked tranny case?

You might want to send Jake Raby a PM, he'd know whether the intended repair would be robust. If it were me, I'd source a used one and have the local indy swap it. You might also check the local scene, if it can be repaired it doesn't necessarily need to be a Porsche enthusiast who does it, just someone who does that kind of work for a living.

PS If you are not too fussy and just want to end the leak maybe something like this would work, I read in Excellence where it was great for fuel tanks how is it on tranny oil leaks? uncertain..

http://www.dowcorning.com/content/etronics/etronicsseal/etronics_aas_1ptov.asp

I think I'm going to try GBox or California Motorsports. We did initially apply jb-weld to the case and it held for a while, but looks like it is developing a slow leak now. I want a more long term solution. I'm not really sure how to find local shops that can perform this job. Anyone know any shops in the bay area?

Also, any ideas how many additional hours the ims replacement is going to take when the tranny is removed?

After the tranny is removed, the IMS bearing will be staring you in the face and should only take a few hours to replace.

There is a very good tutorial on IMS replacement at the pelican parts site. How long it will take truly depends on your skill and what occurs once you tear into it. With the transmission already out, in a perfect world one would think you could get the IMS changed in a day. As for the case, need more information on why it's leaking, is it cracked? I don't know if it's aluminum maybe someone else does, if it is what I'm saying is maybe someone local could use a heliarc welder and drop a bead where the JB weld is. According to the guy in excellence, only the dow corning RTV held as a permanent solution regarding the use of a non weld solution.

How did the tranny get the crack ? Where is the crack located ?

I was changing the tranny fluid and overtorqued the drain bolt. It created several hairline fractures stemming from the drain bolt area. Fluid started dripping out after the fiasco.

A definite NO to Motor Sheister doing any work for you. Who is that guy in the Bay area that does all the racing cage work? Tony? If he can't fix it he will know who can.

Its two hours to replace the ims, the LN Engineering Retrofit Kit has a stronger bearing. If you car rattles on start up install new chain tensioners.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1354062141.jpg

Two hours from the time your tranny is dropped?

And thanks for the info regarding motor meisters, fellas. I'm going to look for a local welder to see if they can fix this.

According to Wayne R. Dempsey in his 101 project book. And I agree with him if you run into no problems.

Follow the LN Engineering directions and not Wayne. The engine need to be TDC so there is less chance of slipping timing chain. Wayne has you lock the timing with set screws and you can move the press fit gear on the ims shaft (bad).

if in case you your cracks are not bad enough to ooze heavygear oil as you think, you may have stripped the threads in which case, get a expanding rubber wine stopper with a lever. Worked for years for me with a 928.

Regards, PK

It's not a bad idea yet I'd be leery it might drop out on the highway and destroy the engine before one could react. Perhaps I'm missing something here but if it's stripped I would find a slightly larger bolt and simply use a tap to cut new threads.

Hundred reasons not to worry, Get back as to why (my detailed message just disappeared.)


If you insist though, Got a good, xtra 5spd 60k if interested...PM.

Regards, PK

To elaborate, you can do whatever your comfortable with. Just the facts though, you won't blow out one of those stoppers. They're plenty snug. Their PSI versus your crank or gear box PSI doesn't compare. Besides, your already practically talking a new trans. If it did blow-out, you'd be no worse off than you are now.

I drove a 928 v8 around with one in the crank case for 60k, drove it pretty hard to, no probs. They even sell them now at big-box autoparts.

Regards, PK

Ok, so we decided to do a semi-major overhaul since we had the tranny out and ordered the IMS retrofit kit for LN engineering, a new clutch kit, redo the rear main seal (it was seeping oil but not leaking), and replace the valve cover gasket.

Now, I'm still back at my original problem. I brought the tranny to Norman's Performance to Berkeley and they said he wants the tranny disassembled and wants to work from the inside. I'm not sure if disassembling it will be cost effective as I understand it is very labor intensive. Does anyone else have any recommendations on shops that can fix this- preferably local to the Bay Area? I tried Jake Raby and he doesn't do tranny work, and GBox who mentioned that it will not be cost effective shipping a heavy tranny to do a simple weld job.

Attached are a few pics. Initially, we applied jb weld and it stopped the leak for about 1/2 year. Now it is every so lightly leaking again. The jb weld can be scraped off.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1354994366.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1354994385.jpg

You cannot simply try and weld this from the outside, it needs to be disassembled and cleaned first to do it properly.

Is this a five or six speed box?