Still hesitating after MAF change
 

Hello all

I finaly change the MAF hoping to correct my engine loss of power and hesitation on my 2000 S. Well its still the same. Acceleration is not hard and past 5k its struggle. Still engine runnning good when in granny driving mod.

I had a code pending once (p1126 I think) but it disappear. Was not pending before I change de MAF and not pending eather after my 30 min test drive. I did a couple of hard accelaration, highway driving, city driving. after the test drive I did 2 quick stop at some store, and when restarting the car, got a hugh smoke cloud.

So what do you thing?
I still have some part coming from pelican for a good tune up that I think the car never have.Spark plug, fuel filter and AOS. Throttlr body is clean and air filter new too.

Thanks
Chris

Just a thought...did you disconnect the battery when working on the MAF, or at least, afterwards? Make sure you have the radio code, if applicable.

Since your car is sending you 'smoke signals' most likely it is something else causing your troubles, AOD perhaps. Give Granny the boot!

Could be an intake leak somewhere or the fuel pump/pressure beginning to go which is causing your engine to hesitate. The AOS will also kick a P1126 code if its failed or failing at times... Did you try pulling the oil cap while your engine is idling... If it's hard to pull off, your AOS is probably gone, if it comes off easy its probably fine. Check the little cross over hose from the AOS to the Intake... if its full of oil then at least you know where the smoke is coming from.
H

You might want to check some other things as well since you indicated a lot of items weren't serviced.

If you do all the above the other users said, and the maintenance, and the problem still persists:

Unlikely but is it possible the MAF is defective? MAFS are easily damaged with their thin, delicate wires. Also, it should be noted that some ebay sellers in the past have sold defective units.

A bad or going bad coil pack can create same symptoms. Also check your cam sensor.

Bad coil or cam sensor? I feel good about doing the basic maintenance when the pelican parts will arrive. But how can I check a bad coil. Or what do I need to look at for the cam sensor?

Electric or electronic parts always scare me
Chris

This sounds like the classic AOS (air oil separator) problem, especially if you're getting smoke.

I was getting major hesitation when pressing on the accelerator, but didn't get the standard tell-tale signs of smoke. With the engine running at idle, the hesitation was there (when revving). I then pulled off the oil filler cap (thereby allowing air into the crankcase) and tried again. The hesitation was gone.

I replaced the AOS and the hesitation is gone.


Oh, .... 2002 Boxster, 165,000 exhilarating miles! :D

Did you get this sorted as ive got a similar problem with my 2.5, my car pulls hard in all gears but seems to hold back above 5000rpm and struggles to hit the redline.

But and its most noticeable in 4th gear when its just above 5000rpm with the throttle fully open, if i start to slowly lift off the throttle the engine starts to pull and accelerate smooth to the redline, but if i open the throttle fully again it struggles.

lts seems like the engine getting to much air.

lve just fitted new coil packs and plugs and now looking to replace the MAF and lambda sensors.

Hello

Well, long story short, there was more then one problem. This was my first post about it. I had a leak at the valve of the resonance tube, the second tube of the intake ( not sure you have that with a 2.5). This correct the high end power cut off. MAF was not good too, then not long after it, AOS blew. change that so no more smoke and no code of mixture treshold. Finaly, we find out that there was a short at the MAF ground. We try to squeeze the connector pin of the MAF for better connection. So no more rought idle and engine stall intermitently. All look good for about 10 months.

But last week, it happen again, low power, then Rought idle and engine stop. Look like the ground is acting again. This time I will ask the MAF plug to be change.

Hope it can direct you in some way to figure out your problem.

Later
Chris

lve not had any issues like that, apart from the top end problem you'd think the car was running 100%.

lve seen on a few porsche spares sites they recommend replacing the lambda sensors every 30,000 miles.

My cars done 94,000 miles and ive most of the spares receipts from new and have none for the MAF or lambda sensors, so looks like there the ordinals

I'm having a similar hesitation as well, after my AOS died. I replaced the AOS and MAF so far and its fairly good, but when cruising or accelerating it pulls strong then suddenly coasts for about 1 second then resumes accelerating.

It recurs at somewhat random intervals of 5 seconds or more in the 4000+ rpm range.

No codes thrown yet.

I did notice the gas cap seal appears to be cracking a bit and wonder if that could be a factor?

If its a Oxygen lambda sensor wouldn't you be getting those codes indicating it was at fault?

[QUOTE=If its a Oxygen lambda sensor wouldn't you be getting those codes indicating it was at fault?[/QUOTE]

Would think so, ive got a code reader arriving tomorrow so will take a look and take it from there

jb, when I had an O2 sensor going out, it threw codes for the MAF going out too that were not true at all. The fault code system in our cars is not foolproof by any means. I think the system gets confused a lot, actually.

For model year 2000 cars there are two verisons of MAF. I actually had this problem since a parts site listed the second newer one with vin number, but it is incompatible- it requires the vehicle to be updated via piwis to accept. I remember I could not get past a certain rpm point and things were a little funny until I got the situation sorted out. If your air filter box has a barcode label on it, that can be an indicator of MAF version.

plugged in the coder reader today came up no codes stored so back the square one