RMS Questions Factory installed 8.9mm
 

I'm in the process of closing up my IMS, RMS, Clutch and I took measurements of the factory RMS. This is a 2000 3.2 S and it has the updated seal installed with square markings and is not leaking but I figure for the few bucks I'll just change it again and hope not to create an issue.

Here is a picture of my calipers showing the installed depth of 8.9mm.

When I install the new seal should I really be going to 13mm that seams very extreme to me on this engine I'm thinking the factory 11mm but I'm not sure if the first RMS was at that depth. I have not pulled the seal yet to view the crank surface for marks.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1343840042.jpg

The little notch in this picture is my main reason for replacing but as you can see no oil leaks I've only used a shop vac to cleanup the rear of the case no other cleaners or wiping has been done.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1343840202.jpg

Seals not set to 13MM tend to leak. Most of the issues we have seen with the PTFE seal involved incorrect installation, usually becasue the installer used the old style tooling which does not set it deep enough. The spec is 13MM.

Thank you JFP that's what I needed to know. So it's not a what seems like a good fit there is a spec somewhere.

I will create my special plumbing tool with the 13mm seating depth.

Once I remove the seal that's there I will also check the inside depth of the case. I assume the new RMS should not be installed with the seal going past the inside edge of the case?

Or is it okay if say 1 mm of the RMS would be pushed inside the case at a 13mm face depth? I'm only asking this because it's a very drastic change from where it sits now and I haven't seen the opening other then pictures posted with the seal out from others.

It also does sound like you agree that I'm not crazy for replacing it again with the tranny out.

RMS seals are one of the cheapest, and most updated parts in the car, so it makes sense to stay current, particularly when you thing about how hard/expensive it becomes to go back in and do it again.

We have never really paid much attention to the realtionship of the seal and the inside edge; we simply set it to 13MM as measured from the crank flange face using the OEM tool, check it after the tool is removed just to be sure. Haven't seen any issue to date, and we have a fair number of them installed.