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Have a good lunch.

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Move seats forword.

Looking really good. Did your flywheel pass the twist test or is it shot? I know its pricey but a good time to replace it now.

Going to be anxious to see how your bearing looks when you get it out. Take your time and triple check you have everything locked down, and for what its worth, loosen all three of your cam chain tensioners. It really does make a big deal.

Waiting to see your next installment!

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Remove front engine access.

Its shot checking prices now.

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Cleaned up for the day and have gone car shopping. :dance:

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Access to front of engine.

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Rotate motor clockwise until tdc lines up on the main pulley.

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Split apart pulley lock so that it will clear the power top motor shroud and insert into teardrop shaped hole on pulley.


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Reattach red handle.

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On bank one (the passenger side on USA cars) pulls the green plug on flywheel end of engine.


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If notch is pointing away from motor, according to my manual you are NOT at TDC.

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Must undo pulley lock and rotate engine clockwise 360 deg.

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Put tool back into the teardrop hole.

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Now the notch on the cam is pointing inward.

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Notch is pointing inward on bank one, you are at top dead center,

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On the 5 chain engine you only have to pull the bottom green plugs

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On 5 chain motor use the sort cam lock, mine I had to notch with dremel to clear engine flange.

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Lock onto cam.

I am going to order one more cam lock for bank one.

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Cut 12" flat stock, drill two holes, lock down flywheel.

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Is it necessary to lock the crank at the rear of the engine if you've already pinned the crank at the front? Just wondering.

It is cheap insurance that nothing moves. I did it on mine and nothing moved.

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Take 32 mm socket and remove the two front chain tensioner.

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This part is were some confusion comes in. I have developt a hybrid of Pelicans Parts and LN engineering instructions.

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Remove nut on bearing shaft.

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Remove flange bolts.

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Twist flange so you can get behind it with a pry bar.

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Pull out, have catch pan for the extra oil.

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Do not use the set screws that come with Pelican Kit. Follow the LN instructions and keep everything at top dead center. The ims may shift off center, but that is ok.

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Attach puller, on dual row bearings no c clip to undo.

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Old bearing is in good shape for 130,000 miles. Some galling on the outer race but not out of round.

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Freeze bearing with driver overnight.

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Drive bearing in with rubber hammer.

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On duel row put in Spacer and clip.

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Clean flange and install inner spacer and o ring with some sealant.

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Use the bolts that come in the pelican kit to drive the cover on. This is were some trouble can come in. You have to wiggle with pry bars the flange cover to line the three bolt holes up. Be careful not to cross tread the screw holes.

Was your bearing filled with oil? If so, it was in the beginning of failure and you caught a problem.

Going to take the gasket off and check, the bearing has been leaking oil so I believe it was full.

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Once flange is in remove the driver bolts one at a time and install new Porsche bolts. Torque at 8 foot pounds.

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Install center nut with O ring and short spacer with some sealant and removable loctite. With the new Pelican center shaft it torque to 24 foot pounds.

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:cheers:

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Started to replace the IMS bearing on July 22, finished it two week ago. On the way to get my state inspection the check engine light comes on (of course). Replaced an O2 sensor on Sunday and it passed inspection today. Had the car washed, now I'm back on the road.

I feel now that I can install the ims bearing, start to finish, in two full days of work. :cheers:

Don't forget the RMS
 

No mention of RMS replacement, though I assume you did it. Just a note, for anyone doing the job. RMS is about $10 (?) and takes 10 minutes to replace while you're in there.
Great writeup, thanks!

Pelican part IMS bearing kit is holding at 500 mile, I drive my car hard and there is no cam variation or oil leaks.

Thank you Wayne for your kit,

Kashmir