I have yet to pull the seal on the bearing I left it in a ziplock bag overnight to see if any oil leaks out for my non scientific seal test. Bearing feels like it still has grease in it no play and turns smooth. I took some video of the bearing pull and have a good clip were you can hear the clip pop to release the bearing while it's just sitting there without being touched. I ran out of space on my SD card before the bearing was pulled all the way out. I wanted to record the oil or in this case no oil coming out of the IMS tube. I'll take a picture of the bearing in the bag tonight and record video removing the seal to see what I have.

I like my craft and micro brews :cheers: Trying to figure out how to start making a wall display in the garage so they aren't all over my work space.

Froze the new bearing for a few hours and that's now in with the new flange. I did not add to the sealant on the micro-encapsulated bolts. I have no oil leaks to start so I figured the factory thread locker was enough.

New Bearing in place with spiro-loc. Spiro-loc was tricky to get in carefully but did go in after fussing with it for 5 minutes.

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New flange had fit this was the last picture last night as I decided on what flange sealants and Loctite to use which I didn't have on hand. I do stick with recommended thread-lock numbers since there are so many choices out there I don't like to mess around and just get the right stuff.

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So the car is now back on the road but I figured I'd share a few things. I updated my RMS tool after having issues getting my first seal to go in strait.

First tool and rubber mallet method I'd say very difficult to get it in correctly.


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Updated tool using the original flywheel bolts to push the seal in. Notice the red cup is used with both tools to get the seal onto the crank as the factory tool does to not muck up the seals edge. 3 inch coupler cut just above the center lip and then a 3 inch tube cut to leave a 13mm face. The tape was used to shim out to the perfect depth for me as my compound miter saw wasn't calibrated for mm :rolleyes:


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Installed seal set at 13mm with no hammering. tool cost still well under $10 and you would have to really mess up to have it not go in perfect.



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Red cup used to start the RMS onto the crank

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Updated clutch release lever assembly.

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New LUK clutch kit note all Sachs parts included in the kit. Also included INA pilot bearing which was the same as the OEM when I removed it. Both used INA pilot and throwout bearings.

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Great thread! Thanks!