Ignition Switch help :(

[Mrmaddbrad]

So when i bought my '02 Boxster S, about 3 months ago, i knew that the ignition switch was going bad. To get all the accessories to work, you had to click the key back one position. And honestly, I didn't mind doing that. It was by no means a big deal.

Today, I put a MAF Sensor in(Which didn't fix my rough idle problem > ) went to start the car again, and the key would not go into the ignition at all. It appeared that some sort of lock-out pin had fallen into place and would not budge. After about 10 minutes of playing with it and using some lubricant, i was able to slide the key in and out freely, as i have always been able to do and would start the car fine. A few times the key did not want to go back in and i had to try a few more times to get it to work.

I have come to assume that the part in question would be the ignition switch, and not the tumbler itself. Working at a shop, a switch is less than $25 at cost, but I still want to make sure I know this is what is wrong for sure so I don't have to do the job twice. Looking at our local parts supplier, South San Fransisco (SSF), they also have a listing for an updated Lock Assembly w/ Switch. Does anyone have any idea why I would do this?

Part Numbers:
996 347 017 05 (OEM Option #1)
996 347 017 06 (OEM Option #2)
996 347 017 07 (Aftermarket/ Retrofit Option)

All input is highly appriciated! Thanks guys

[dghii]

1. Buy the $15 ignition switch for your car. NAPA will have it or get it for you the next day. This will not be a 'do the job twice' as the effort isn't that bad to simply replace the electrical portion of the switch.

2. Rough idle - When your car is at idle and 'feels rough', how does your tach look? I had rough idle on a 98 Box I was playing with last summer. After replacing plugs, air filter and cleaning the MAF, the idle still felt rough (compared to my 2000 S). I realized one day at a stop light that my tach was rock steady and showed no fluctuation. I replaced my motor mount (1 hour, not tough to do) and the car idled like new.

[Mrmaddbrad]

Originally Posted by dghii

2. Rough idle - When your car is at idle and 'feels rough', how does your tach look? I had rough idle on a 98 Box I was playing with last summer. After replacing plugs, air filter and cleaning the MAF, the idle still felt rough (compared to my 2000 S). I realized one day at a stop light that my tach was rock steady and showed no fluctuation. I replaced my motor mount (1 hour, not tough to do) and the car idled like new.

The tach does hunt. I found a vacuum leak at the oil filler neck. Hopefully after replacing that it will solve my problems.

But as far as the ignition issue, I should probably do as you say and order the switch and hope it fixs it

[tonycarreon]

i had issues inserting and removing my key (and a few times was certain that it would not go back in) just like you described.

the problem was the switch and tumbler were no longer lined up and turning correctly. once the new switch was put in, everything was good again. no issues with the tumbler. you'll be certain you got the wrong switch when you get the old one in because the line for the tumbler will be way off...


(old one on the left)

when i pulled the old one out, i had to put the key in and turn the tumbler further to get it lined up with the new switch, fyi.

[Mrmaddbrad]

Oh my goodness! Tony, i think you're exactly right! Thanks a ton

[milliemax]

Tony, you are SO right !!! I posted this months ago as I bought an aftermarket switch that was off by 45 ?? degrees or so and it is still sitting by this computer. Paper weight !!! How is OC this year ?