RMS leak with 987 seal
 

I had oil leak between engine and trans last year and we found that RMS was the culprit. Replaced the RMS with 987 part number (cayenne style) and did the clutch/LN IMS work at the same time. And yesterday I found that it is wet again under the car... urrgghhhh, it seems like the updated RMS is not the final permanent fix for the RMS issue... I only drove total of 3K miles with the new seal and it is already leaking..

Luckily the mechanic who did the job is willing to check it out and warranty it....

Anybody has RMS leak with the latest seal???

The seal you should be using, the PTFE unit, is part number 997 101 212 00, which requires special tooling to install. If that is not the part number you used, that is cause of your problems......

JFP,

The mechanic who did the job was using the same part # with one you mentioned. The middle of the seal has green ring on it. He also showed me his RMS tool from Porsche (looks like a metal cup) to push the seal in. He also mentioned that this new seal has to be put on dry to the crank and pushed by using the tool that he have...

Have you seen any car with RMS issue with this latest seal ??

There is also an inspection that the shop is supposed to perform at the same time to make sure the crank carrier is correctly located in the block. If the carrier is out of spec, the RMS will leak with any seal.

We have installed many of them over the past several years, and never had one leak to date. That said, we have seen ones were the new seal was not properly installed (how deeply they are set into the case is critical, as is making sure they are installed straight) leak because of how they were installed. Replacing the miss-installed seal with a properly set new one corrected the issue in these situations. There have also been reports of engine cases that the crankshaft openings were not correctly machined, or had bad crank carriers, where no seal will work (the engine has to be replaced).

I read on pelican article that we can use curil t to help keep the seal dry. Do you think this curil t will help in my application? ?

That depends upon what is causing the leak, but there is not sealant required for the latest design to work. We have always installed the seal dry, and as mentioned earlier, have not had issues.

If it were up to me, I would pull the car apart, check the existing seal for the correct installation depth around the entire circumference first; if it is out of plumb, pull it and put in a new one (dry) making sure it is installed correctly. If the existing unit is in correctly, I would pull a copy of the TSB on the subject and start checking the case for trueness. If the case or crank carrier is out of spec, the seal is going to leak; there is nothing you can do about it.

When these cars were still covered by a factory warranty, Porsche was checking each leaker and replacing the engines on cars that failed the trueness tests; they never released a field fix for the problems involved.

JFP, thanks for the suggestion. I will make sure they check the current seal location and install the new seal correctly (13mm right??)...
I hope the new seal will fix it. I think I will go with dry install route...

13MM from the flywheel mating surface, not the face of the case (common mistake).

Thanks JFP..
Now I just remember that he mentioned that the new seal sticks out alot more than the original. I think he installed it with 13mm from the face of the case...
It all make sense now why I have rms issue with the new seal....