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Mysterious front end rattle
Hi, hoping someone can suggest what the mysterious front end rattle/clunking is that has evaded 2 mechanics and several attempted fixes! The symptoms on my 2002 Boxster S are:
- dull rattle that sounds like a "loose coupling" or a "bucket of large bolts" - seems to be from the front and occurs when the front wheels hit a bump - most noticeable at low speed (30-40kph or 18-24mph) - most noticeable when driving over low but "sharp" bumps/cracks (e.g. bridge expansion joints or large cracks in the pavement) - only occurs in warm temperatures (above 15C or 62F), and even then usually not til the car has been driven 15-20 minutes Have replaced both front sway bar links and the right front lower control arm, but no noticeable improvement. Was led to believe by the first mechanic that I should now change the left front control arm, but the second mechanic disagreed after listening to the rattle and doing the "fender push test". Hearing the sound (while driving), he was in fact surprised that the first mechanic suggested it was due to the lower control arm. After putting the car up on the hoist and prodding the suspension components, he was unable to find anything abnormal. Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated as this is now driving me crazy! Thanks! |
02, original suspension components, I'd change the other control arm, in fact at that age I'd probably change them as a pair out of the gate. Your id says Ontario, I live in the freeze/thaw region too, think about the pounding the ball joints in that arm every spring on our rutted trails. Most noticeable over bumps is some suspension component, if the steering feels effected check the tie rod ends. One good thing is even if you chase your butt a little at that age replacing these items can only help preserve the performance and longevity of your vehicle.
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Thanks Ghostrider. The reason I haven't changed the other side yet is that the second mechanic said the rattling sound did not sound like a worn control arm bushing. What type of noise does this typically make. Thinking about it some more, I think I would best describe the rattling I hear as "a couple metal bars bouncing on plywood". It is triggered exactly when the front wheels hit the crack/bump. Each crack/bump causes a several rattles. Is this consistent with control arm wear?
thx |
rattle
Hey,
Did you ever solve it? I have those same symptoms...and have attempted the same fixes..no joy. How could such and obvious sound have such an unknowable source? |
Did you check your spare in the frunk? It could be loose.
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Battery loose? |
no luck
i have been chasing this rattle for a long time no luck got excited with the tire mine wasnt loose 2 things left to change struts, sway bar links also thought that brake springs would do it no luck. because it doesnt occur when brakes applied buying jacks and stands and going after it my self this really sucks
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I had the same issue last year. Car drove fine until it got hot, usually after 1hr drive. Took.it.to multiple shops and found nothing. After spent $300 total in inspection, I decided to get my hands dirty and started throwing parts instead... With my luck, the last piece that I replaced was the troublemaker. Ended up with all new suspension.
I started by replacing sway bar bushings, no change. next was drop links, no change. There was no play in control arms and track arms, so next was inner and outer tie rods. Multiple discussions in rennlist on 996 inner tie rods.making clunky noise when grease dry and car gets hot. no change.. so next was both control and track arms.. and same noise. the last thing was strut and upper strut mount. that cured the problem. when I got the upper strut mounts from dealer, part number has been revised to 997 part. Front has 997 number and rear has been revised to 987 part. I ended.up with all new suspension... |
struts
replaced everything but the struts hard to diy/
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laphan
did you do the stuts yourself
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I got the bilstein sport for $160 each from autozone. they often gives 20%off coupons. |
Don't forget to replace the top bearings while the shocks are removed....
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had the exact same problem as described by the OP with my new to me 03. The ppi shop said it was suspension related. My local guy said everything there was fine. The sound was from a loose and out of adjustment front trunk latch mechanism. He adjusted it and the sound is gone. Cheap quick fix, probabaly an easy DIY. See if that works.
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I'm taking mine in today to have it put on a rack. Strut mount/strut is the most likely...how can the strut be diagnosed? Won't make the noise on the car.
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rattle
Hey,
What was your outcome...identical symptoms to mine |
I messed with my 98 that had all sorts of rattling up front. Changing the struts cured the problem. I would guess that my issues could have been solved by replacing the strut bearing alone but I guess I'll never know.
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Rattle
I changed the strut bearings...rattle persists...the shocks themselves sounded and felt good when out of the car. It now has new: control arms; tie rods and now strut bearings...gremlin?
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The obvious has been covered. I am thinking loose fender well lining, mud in body parts, loose underbody panel or similar, loose parts in spare kit, license plate holder, trunk liner or something under carpet, loose bumper securing nuts / parts, or so on. What would have come loose over time?
Hamster wheel has new bearings? They can rattle. Got way better mileage when I changed his bearings. |
struts are left for you and me joe
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Can struts make a clacking rattle? The temperature sensitive aspect of a strut would make sense...when I had the struts out I cycled them without incident....I'm going mental!
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drop links done
joe die you do drop links, upper strut mounts ?
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I changed the strut bearings and re-used the mounts (as they looked and felt perfect)
I disconnected the sway bar to diagnose but the clackety clack persisted. It sounds like loose brake pads...I 've cleaned everything and put blue permatex stop squeal on the back of all of the pads (the fronts had the interlocking piston shims ..the rear doesn't) However, I re-used the anti-rattle springs after cleaning, inspecting, and bending them a bit...everything feels tight. |
clacking
clacking for me was drop links very common. i have not replaced struts or strut mounts. the mounts were replaced with used ones now these knock when cold. thats why i think we need struts ....rattling over cracks at low speeds . like the previous posts say basically have to replace whole suspension. get this, i even replaced the rack.oh well i am going back at it soon as the dust settles.....recently spent 7000 ims flywheel rear brakes rotors front tires 2 alignment droplinks inner and outer tie rods heat shield deleat,strut berrings. remodeling garage because for things external i will be doing ,like the muffler that rattles because of bad baffles? even that is not definitely the culpret. i guess this just deserves a chuckle, i think many people would love to have our rattle
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breakthrough
Hey,
I think I've cracked the clack. Took out the front track arms (super easy) and put them in a vise to check for play. None to be had. Applied a bit of heat with a heat gun. Once warmed up: clackety clack clack. This fits the profile. I let you know once I replace them. |
clack
clack over bumps low speed? bad news for me is i replaced all 4 arms w/ used so if i change the struts and put new mounts and problem exists, i have bad lower control arms not cheap thats why i went used we shall see... let me know soon. what about the drop links ? my clack was at higher speed for the drop links
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Track arms replace, rattle gone. Applying heat to check for play was the key. Sanity restored!
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can you clarify what you are calling the track arms. In looking around, I have found 3 different suspension parts that different individuals are calling track arms. Also where did you get yours and how pricy were they. This sounds like the noise I have in my C4 with 74K miles and my 04 boxster S with 54K.
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Hi,
Some call the track arm, the forward, or front control arm. I got TRW's from: Autopartsway.ca for $112 Hope this helps. |
joe arms
glad the rattle is gone , thought it might be struts since previous post of yours mentioned some arms recently changed, tracking, trailing....always confusing changed all 4 of mine when chasing rattle. rears were done last year more like a knock. I think that the temp. variant you mentioned is correct as far as struts are concerned my rattle always persists any temp.plus I HAVE CHANGED THE ENTIRE FRONT END EXCEPT STRUTS ! thank you for the follow up joe. alot of posts never give solution when fixed....to happy driving!
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Mountain....... Log onto the UK Porsche parts supplier < Design911 & PPCGB Performance & Car parts Specialist > and under Suspension & Axle you will see a description & picture of the front suspension kit currently on special price (see below). I bought the kit last year - comes complete with all hardwear, nuts, bolts etc and it fitted perfectly. Parts got to Australia in 7 days. Hope this helps.... Control Arm 'Coffin Arm' and Wishbone Kit FRONT Porsche 986 Boxster and 996 >>04 Code: CONTROLARM01 Control Arm 'Coffin Arm' & Wishbone Kit FRONT. Porsche 986 Boxster and 996 >>04 Brand: TRW + Hamburg Technic Coffin arm is Hamburg Technic and the fork arm is TRW brand (TRW are the Original Manufacture for Porsche) Kit Contains 16 Parts: 2 x Control Arms Ref No.6 2 x Control Wishbone Ref No.3 2 x Lock Nuts Ref No.12 2 x Hex Nuts Ref No.22 2 x Hex Nuts Ref No.5 2 x Hex Bolts Ref No.7 2 x Hex Bolts Ref No.11 2 x Hex Bolts Ref No.4 Fits: Porsche 986 Boxster 1997-04 Front Porsche 996 C2/C4/C4S 1998-04 Front Porsche 996 Turbo 2000-2005 Front (non adjustable) Please note this arm is not an adjustable type (not motorsport - M004 option & not for 996, Boxter 986 models with factory Litronic headlamps M601) Special Offer Price: Was £341.92 Now £290.63 |
Hm, seems i'm in the club. Today it's pretty hot and clack clack.
Noise only appears when driving slowy forwards. Not when driving backwards. First thought it comes from the back, but it comes from the front left. Because i have Litronic i have to use the adjustable arms. Did a little research on part numbers for the european market. Control arm PAG: 996 341 043 06 also for 99634104303 is similar to TRW JTC1185 - EAN Number 3322937754267 Lower control arm PAG 996 341 941 01 (with M601 for Litronic) also for 99634194101 99634194100 99634105314 99634105306 99634105307 99634106300 is similar to TRW JTC1175 - EAN Number 3322937754267 So i'll put my Box on a lift and will see if i can find something. Hope not to find nothing and have to change the complete suspension like others. :( Regards from Germany Markus http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1436101923.jpg |
Isn't top arrow the idler arm? Then control arm and drop link?
Nope. Got my glasses. Trailing arm? |
Damn, seems that pictures are resized when uploaded to the forum. :(
Here is another view. I don't know the correct english terms but i hope i named them correctly. Lower control arm (Querlenker) PAG 996 341 941 01 (with M601) = TRW JTC1175 Trailing arm PAG: 996 341 043 06 = TRW JTC1185 Regards from germany Markus http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1436107088.jpg |
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