Cold Engine, Redlining it.
 

I know it is bad to drive the car hard when the engine is cold, but I just can't do that in this car. It begs to be driven hard. I often can't wait to drive somewhere because I want to drive my car and accelerate quickly. And I don't know about you guys, but it takes more than 5 minutes of normal driving before the temp needle even starts to move and another 2 minutes for it to get to normal operating temperature. I can't wait that long. My Mazda warms up to normal operating temp after 2 minutes of normal driving.

What do you guys do to restrain yourselves?

Shop the cost of a replacement engine, plenty of restraint right there.

U just have to know what it costs to replace a blown motor because of your impatience. =$$$$$$:rolleyes::confused::(

Anything I can possibly think of. Honestly, its about treating the car right and maintaining its longevity brutha ! Also sometimes referred to as "babying" but I don't see it as babying at all.
Just taking care of it and once properly warmed, driving the sh#it out of it ! I love the thing too much to drive it cold. I keep it in the garage. I open the garage door, start the thing and go in the house and let it get to 180.

But then again, its not my every day driver. Its my "therapy on wheels". Many out there may not have that type of luxury and they gotta get to where they gotta get to and like NOW. Like a JOB for instance....Me, I'm a Hyundai Guy for THAT :D

Thought it was also a bad idea also to let your car just idle for extended periods as the oil is not circulating properly?
:confused:

blow up the motor and then leave it in the garage for 10 years due to lack of finances to repair. That will teach you to have restraint.:D

For 10 minutes or so ? :confused: I don't THINK it would be a problem...maybe
someone can enlighten us though.

Quote:
"Thought it was also a bad idea also to let your car just idle for extended periods as the oil is not circulating properly?"

Or you could get a remote starter so you can easily warm it up before you drive it.


On a side note I feel sorry for your wife or gf in that you don't let it warm up before driving it hard lol

haha.

I thought of the remote starter and did my research. But it seems they only make them for automatics.

One can be too precious about this sort of thing, but my suspicion is that the heads are very fragile on these cars - especially the 3.2s in the 986, it seems - so the fear of cracking them due to not letting all the different metals warm up gradually is enough to make me warm the car up carefully.

Two extra things I'd say - all the guidance says you should start the car and move off immediately. Couple of reason I think - most wear happens when the engine is cold and it takes much longer to warm up idling. So you want a little load, but only a little. Also, remember the gearbox and other bits could do with warm up and that also happens must fast on the move.

The other thing is that the water gets to temp before the oil, so you should give it at least a couple more minutes once the water is at temp. I tend to limit to 3k until the water temp is fully up, then limit to 4k for a few minutes, then 5k for a few more and then I'm happy to pin the throttle. Whole process is probably at least 15 mins, maybe nearer 20.

Block heater?

this is what you can do:
1. start the engine 15 minutes before you start driving it.
2. move to S Florida or S California (then you will have to wait only 5 minutes in summer 7 at winter)
3. grow old about 10-15 years.
4. start saving for new engine.

i did/do all of the above :D

In NJ you can get fined for letting you car sit and idle! But besides that, it's better for the engine to be warmed up while driving moderately. I block heater is actually a good idea. they make stick-on blanket types, which are recommended on race cars to reduce damage during start-up.

Maybe you should replace your thermostat.

His warm up times sound normal, doubtful the stat is faulty.

These cars have hefty quantities of water and oil. Takes a long time for them to fully warm through.

Bingo !!!!!!!!!!

My manual says to not let it "warm up" idling. Not that I take off and redline it right away(I keep it under 3k rpm until warm), but I don't let it idle.

Just took it out after a wash...needle started moving after 6 blocks or a minute or so. It is about 85 degrees out, though.

Actually says that idling at start up to warm up is detrimental to engine.

It says to start the engine and drive it gently (may not use that exact word) but the idea is to drive it to warm it up but not to treat it as if it's already properly warmed. I don't idle it to warm it up however considering how many of these are in LA don't tell me that they are not sitting in traffic overheating, idling maybe daily; which has to be worse than idling till warm.

Patience is a virtue. Warming 9qts of oil takes time. You can use a block warmer or reptile warmer to keep it ready to go but running hard while cold will surely cause rapid wear and possible instant engine failure. Warming the car while idling loads up the cats with soot and kills them.

Yes, the fuel injection runs rich during start and cold operation and the cats are still cold so if the car is sitting idling for long periods of time on a consistent basis the extra fuel can ruin the cats.

Just keep control for 5 mins and all will be good and right with the world when you floor it!

All this "never let the motor warm up at idle' is the car manufacturers, all of them, requirement to comply with federally mandated MPG requirements. Obviously, an idling motor gets zero MPG, so to comply with the EPA, they say don't idle. But a motor at idle has essentially no load, and with a thermostat it will warm up quickly. Since the most motor wear occurs while its cold, a motor warming up with no load will definitely last longer than a motor that is cold and being driven.

I'm not saying idle the engine until it reaches operating temperatue, but letting the car idle for a few minutes before driving is much better than driving off within seconds of starting the car. Don't believe the hype of car companies.

You can install a remote start on a manual trans. just by-pass the clutch switch behind the pedal, so you dont have to wait 5 mins. inside the car before the needle starts to move. :cool: And also I read avoid "jack rabbit" take off on a cold engine. :dance:

An indy mechanic said that high revs when cold probably caused my 2nd gear problem ($3600).
Less than a mile from home is a wonderful uphill hairpin turn with good visibility followed by a nice straight stretch. So now I only enjoy it when already warm.

As has been already said, owner's manual says to not let the car idle and warm up. After reading this (the day I got the car), I've followed it. You can tell when the car is cold and running the secondary air injection because the revs drop off very slowly compared to a warm engine, and the shifting is a bit sludgy until the fluid warms up more. But I just follow the manual: drive as soon as the car's started/ASAP, don't exceed 80% throttle when car's not up to temp, don't exceed 4000 rpms when car's not up to temp. I also follow the colloquial rule of thumb of keeping the revs over 3000 as much as possible. I figure as long as I'm following the manual, Porsche can't say I caused problems by not driving the car properly.

I actually rather enjoy having to restrain myself to driving a certain way to let the car get up to temp. It can actually be kind of fun, and makes me pay more attention to what I'm doing as opposed to when I drive my DD econobox. It would suck if my commute were 100% city...I just make sure I make as much use of the stints on the higway as possible.

My commute to work is usually just long enough to get the water up to temp, depending on how long it takes me due to traffic, lights, etc. I know that's not good for the car, but I'm not going to leave extra early to take the scenic route just to let it get up to temp and then some...that's what my long drives to nowhere are for. My commute from work to my campus is about twice as long as my commute from home to either of the two places, so the car has plenty of time and road to get up to temp without being babied the entire way.

So, the short answer to your question: I make a game of sorts out of it, and have confidence that I'm not hurting the car by doing what Porsche says to do.:dance:

I installed an oil temp gauge.
Knowing when the engine is really warmed up helps a lot

So why is it in my UK handbook circa 1997?

Sorry, but I think you're wrong. it's best not to let it idle to warm up because it takes longer and exposes the engine to wear and it also means the gearbox and other parts aren't warming up much if at all. So even if you do warm it up by idling, it's not really read to really go from the moment you pull away.