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At Wit's End
I'd appreciate any advice because I'm at my wit's end. Here's the story in a nutshell.
The symptoms are: 1) car throws codes P0410 and P1411 as soon as the secondary air monitoring system kicks back in after a CEL reset, 2) engine hunts for idle between 600 and 1000 rpm after coming up to operating temperature, and 3) remote key operates unpredictably. I've had three separate shops - all with great reputations - try to diagnose what's wrong. I've replaced all secondary air parts, the A/O separator, the MAF, the gas cap, and the O2 sensors. All tests for vacuum leaks show there are no leaks. I have no idea what else to do and none of the shops can suggest an answer. I just don't know what to do next. My guess is that the problem lies in the car's computer and that it needs reprogramming? What do you think. Can you suggest anything else. Thanks |
Take a look at this page: checkenginelightcausedbymassairflowsensor - mikefocke2
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You can try disconnecting the MAF sensor to see if the idle changes. It will not hurt the engine to disconnect the MAF for a short period of time.
You can also try resetting ECM by disconnecting the battery and wait a few minutes then reconnect it. You will need your radio security code to activate the stereo system after reconnecting the battery. |
The symptoms are: 1) car throws codes P0410 and P1411 as soon as the secondary air monitoring system kicks back in after a CEL reset, 2) engine hunts for idle between 600 and 1000 rpm after coming up to operating temperature, and 3) remote key operates unpredictably.
all ties together as engine intake/exhaust/cat/O2 but the unpredictable remote key does not. but if you assume the electrical to be the root cause, remote key also ties in. I would check the battery. volt meter in DC and AC. |
Thanks, I've tried both of your recommendations. I've done all the obvivous stuff, spend over $6K in the process, and still the problem continues. All of the shops I've taken the car to say they don't know what else to do. Hence, these are the reasons I'm at my wit's end. Short of replacing DME or the engine, I have no idea what else to do.
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Thom, I had same codes last Oct. Had been using mid-grade/ non ethanol. Switched to Exxon high grade and also B-12 gas conditioner ---codes gone all winter. But tomorrow is a different day. good luck.
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Milliemax:
Looking forward to what you find. When I remove the oil fill cap with the engine running and place the palm of my hand over the opening, I can feel a definite vacuum. So I assumed the oil fill tube isn't cracked, but one never knows. All of this started a long time ago when I used midgrade gas for several months. I've switched back to high octane and used Techron Concentrate plus for one tank. No difference. Perhaps I'll try another bottle. Thanks Thom |
THOM, I am sorry that I forgot to tell you to replace the dipstick o-ring,radiator cap, and oil fill o-ring and the gas cap. My previous owner had this done at the advice of the Porsche service manager in Carey, NC. (also because of the same cel's) Sorry. Max Go figure ???
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Thanks i'll stop by the dealer and pick up the parts tonight. I'm surprised that the radiator cap might play a role here
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Hello, I had the same symptoms with the same CEL codes and idle problem.
I cleaned the throttle body with alcohol and a cotton towel. It was a 30 minute job total. Idle Problem Gone. I reset the CEL. It never came back on again. That was almost 1 year ago. |
I put new o-rings on the oil dipstick and the filler cap. I had previously replaced the gas cap. It may be wishful thinking on my part, but the idle seems much steadier. Let's see if that holds up and if the CEL pops back on over the next few days. Great if it doesn't; less than $10 if it does.
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Thanks to everyone who commented on my secondary air system problem.
I started the journey about a year ago chasing P0410 and P1411. $5K in parts and labor later, the the check engine light has remained dark after putting in a new vacuum reservoir. Go figure! |
the key problem my be a completely separate issue..
recently i parked teh car and hit the remote key to lock the car, on return, pressed the button to unlock and the key basically had a 'mind-fart' and wouldnt work. spoke to my local porsche main stealer and they advised me that the old tye keys could lose their programming after a time and a newer version of key had been released. so porsche supplied a new key and programmed it to the car. your key just may be on it's last legs a separate issue to the fault codes. |
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