Rear Upper Control Arms, replace or fix?
 

I've searched but haven't really found what I'm looking for. I think I may need to replace them because I have a clunking noise over bumps and wheel hop in the rear... anyway, my research indicated that it's probably the Rear Upper Control Arm/s.
My question... do I replace them or can I get new bushings etc?
I found a DIY on replacement... but nothing about repairing them... so I'm not sure if that possible or even recommended.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks,

The cost of the bushings and replacing them, is about the same as buying a new one from Pelican...$200.00. And you could do the job yourself.:dance:

Thanks for the reply... that's about what I gathered. Wasn't sure if replacing bushings would be half the price or not... or even more work since you would have to take the arms out regardless...

I bought rebuilt ones from Vertex Auto. All the suspension arms. Am happy with the quality.

I'm a little confused... I've read that its called "Rear upper control arm" and also "Rear lower control arm"... The websites don't list an "Upper" only a "lower"
Is there a difference???

There are 3 components. One is the lower arm that connects to the wheel housing at the bottom. Then there is the control arm which is at the rear (sort of) and connects to the rear side bottom of the housing, 3rd is the track rod which is the loooong piece from the front of the wheel housing. You will see the terms used for the same parts at different vendors. Check the picture and the part number. Best way to ensure right part is ordered.

Thanks Bala!
I just now have to figure out which suspension part/s need replacing! Theres a big clunking sound over bumps... It's very hard to tell which side.
I wonder if a visual inspection of all the components would be enough to tell.
I would hate to pay $200 in parts that I did not need. I do all the labor so I'm not worried about shop costs.

I had so much creaking and moaning it was embarrassing! I went ahead and replaced all 4 lower arms (wishbones), 2 control arms in front, 2 track rods in front, 2 outer tie rods in front, 2 control arms in rear, 2 track rods in rear. Replaced all 4 sway bar drop links. I also changed the 2 front sway bar bushing and 2 rear sway bar bushings. I found it very difficult to assess the state of the parts but, when I removed them they were all shot. The ball joints on the tie rod and wishbones were totally gone. Vertex uses polyeurathane bushings in some. I think they are good but will know after 30k miles I guess.

FWIW, I also bought a set of 4 shocks, springs and 2 sway bars from another member with about 20k on them, When I removed mine they seemed equal in spring back as mine (90k) except they were better cosmetically. I installed them anyway. So, suspension wise I should be good for another 4-5 years hopefully.

For the noise you are reporting I'd check to make sure all your bolts are right torque and that your sway bar bushing is in good shape. Then go on from there. I found that my strut to body bolts were not right torque. I could remove them with my fingers. I guess they do come loose.

Vertex sold me a rebuilt kit of all the arms and track rods for 995. Saved about 350 from individual price. If you need less parts they would probably do a smaller kit for you.

That is a ton of great information! Thanks! I will be under the car this weekend with this thread open on my iphone:)

The nut on top of the strut also can be loose, making a nasty clanking noises.

.

Where's this nut located, exactly?

The nut is located behind the clamshell after you open the top to the service position. Follow your nose and you'll see it. Problem is you won't be able to tell if it's loose unless there is some pressure in it so get a chubby buddy to stand in the trunk.

The clunk in my car was from the long trail arms AND drop links. Chang the rear links out first and see if that fixes it... They're the least expensive and are probably worn out anyway.

Cool, thanks for that. Will give it a shot.

Track rods replacement
 

Hello all, this forum has been a great source of info. I have actually completed a few "basic" repairs/maintenance items using the info here - thanks to everyone who has posted. I have a 97 Boxster, original owner, immaculate but its 15 years old and the heat and humidity of Texas doesn't help things out. Have already replaced struts/coils and several other rubber items. I am having the spark plugs replaced and leaning towards also doing the ignition coils - no added labor but the coils cost $500+. I alsohave the front and rear track rods and bushings need replacement - about $2,600 from the dealer, almost $2,000 in parts. I usually avoid the dealer but I figured I needed some major wotrk done and also wanted them to thoroughly check out the car. I have known the service manager since I first bt the car and trust him. It seems like I could save big $ buying aftermarket parts, although not sure the dealership will install for me. I plan to keep the car for the foreseeable future. I plan to discuss with the service mgr but thought I would seek some input since many of you are very knowledgeable and experienced with Boxster and repairs. Thanks.

Dealers will not take supplied parts, genuine or otherwise. Do you live in Houston? If so, I have a good Indy mechanic for you.

They shouldn't cost you 2000. Should be about a grand. The labor from the dealer would be much more than 600. You have to factor in the alignment and a full wheel balance as well for good measure - 200ish.

Thanks, I am in Houston. I checked again and the parts are about $1900. Did some quick searching and looks like aftermarket parts are about 1/2. Any suggestions on where to buy assuming I go that route?

Vertex Auto.

Thanks. Also, the part numbers they gave me for the track rods are 996-34104306 and 986-33404307. Two each.

I got mine from Vertex. They put a set together for with four lower control arms, 4 upper control arms, 4 track rods for 995. These are rebuilt ones and i had to return the cores. They are original parts as they had the part numbers on them. The track rods had the polyurethane bushings. I am happy with them. Beat them up on the shipping. Shouldnt cost more then 30 for it.

Whether you are DIY or using an indy check the wheel bearings and axle boots. Good time to do it now. Got rear bearings from ********************************z for 25 each. Front was from PP at 40.