How often do you replace your rotors?
 

I had someone meet up with me last week about purchasing my car. They were trying to talk me down in price by saying that my car is going to need brakes and rotors soon because there is a "lip" on the outside edge of the rotors.
Naturally since the brake pads don't go all the way to the edge of the rotors then there is going to be a little wear. I honestly do not think they need to be replaced and think they were just trying to beat me up in price.

I was a mechanic for almost 6 years and still continue to wrench on my own stuff. I disagree on them needing to be replaced but its neither here nor there.

Anyways, my question is, how often do you all replace your rotors. Now mind you I don't track my car or have any issues with them such as vibrations or any noise. Pads still have life on them. I have not replaced any brakes on it since I've owned it for the past 2.5 years.

Rotors are replaced based upon their remaining thickness, or if flaws or damage is found. Check the maximum wear limit for your car and if the rotors are getting close, I would replace them.

Used cars have used components on them. Nit picking brake rotors is BS. I have a lip on my rotors and I have 36K miles on mine and I'm nowhere close to changing them out...maybe turning them to clean them up but that's it. If you can, use a vernier caliper and measure the rotor (no need to remove the tire for this measurement). I'm sure you're in tolerance and you can tell that to the next buyer with the numbers to prove it.

Next they will tell you the flux capacitor is worn out, sounds like normal price beating tricks.

To me it's not nit-picking or anything but good used car buying. It's your job as the seller to be able to refute or aquiesce to the buyer's requests. When I purchased my first Boxster I asked the dealer about the brakes and he couldn't tell me if they were close to needing replacement. I called the Porsche dealer in front of him and asked what a brake job would cost and they told me almost $2,000 for a complete job so I told them I wanted the $2,000 deducted or they needed to have the car reinspected for brake tolerance and have a brake job done if the rotors were close. They "reduce rather than repair". I got the $2,000 deducted and when I had the car inspected, the brakes were fine. If you're selling the car, have an inspection done and know what the exact amount remaining on your parts is so you can soothe the concerns of the buyer or deduct the amount as requested. Expect nothing less from a buyer than you would do if you were he/she. It's just good business.

MileHigh, I agree 100%. One cannot determine the true value of a used car without determining how much deferred maintenance there is. If you buy a car that will need brakes, tires and 90K mile service in the next month or two, the might be worth ~$4,000 less than if all of that was just done. That is a drastic difference in price for a car that might sell for $15,000.
That said, most cars haven't just had all that done, and most cars aren't in need of all of that in the next couple months. My $0.02.

Get one of these and measure the thickness of your rotor. Basic due diligence when you're trying to sell a vehicle.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe.../measuring.jpg

With a small modification.
 

Just to make sure it will go the lip. 2 nuts hot glue. Can be removed when the job done.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1329160537.jpg

I’m going to do the same inspection myself this afternoon, so here is the spec:
97-04 boxster-
Front: 22.6 mm minimum.
Rear: 18.6 mm minimum.
So if you are over these measurements it will tell you how much life you have left on your rotors.

Meir, that's a great and simple mod to use my woodworking calipers! Thanks!

my calipers are on their last days.... but after 12 years and 80k miles.
pads were replaced last year for the first time ever. I try to drive with the throttle and not the brakes and since 90% of my driving is highway, it's easy.

Ironic because these are the best brakes you can buy stock.

I decided a few years ago that brake pads and rotors are cheaper than clutch component replacements so I no longer use engine braking by downshifting. Not sure if that's what you meant Perfectlap, but thought it would be good to add to this thread.

Haha...
no I shift as little as possible too. Last time I drove a Mini Cooper S it donned on me how little shifting down I do with this car in every day driving.
What I meant was that I see people using their brakes to slow down instead of just lifting off the throttle.

Ok, rotors are made of steel and have a lot of heat and friction applied to them during everyday driving. I start at 60K miles and will go no further than 75K on the rotors...then I replace them. No I will not turn them down...it's just not worth it.;)

I put a new set of drilled Balo Rotors and Mintex pads on my 2000S for about $300.

do not want to hijack this post so i will start a new one.
will be interesting to get some of your opinion guys.
the subject is going to be "after market rotors and pads".

I've just not read about many people replacing rotors on here and I was just trying to see if I was wrong in my thinking. I guess I was more frustrated than anything to have to sit there and here them try to come up with a reason to talk me down.

They came out tonight to see the other parts I have that I am planning on including with the car. They are trying to get my car for a steal and I'm not going to let it happen. I already am considering a lower price than I was hoping for. Think I'm ready to move on although I know I will miss it. Trying to make grown up decisions blows.

Boxsters are like any other car. Rotors wear out. How fast depends on how the car was driven and pad type.

Jake,

I don't know what your asking for your car and I don't know your situation. I really hate to see people having to give away their cars because they have to...and some buyers can see that and will take advantage.

Be strong, if they keep coming back then they want the car. Stick to your guns and get your asking price!!:troll:

Interestingly...Rotor replacement specifications are not based on the thickness of the rotor because of the strength of the rotor but they are actually determined by the travel of the caliper piston. If the caliper pistons travel too far then they can leak and compromise the integrity of the braking system. Just an FYI...

Landrover, I believe that a minimum thickness is required on the rotors to help with the heat dissipation and also to help avoid rotor wrapping.
However, I could be wrong.. :p

.

I replace the rotors every time that I replace the pads. Maybe its overkill but its easy, I don't mind the minor extra expense, and it ensures a perfect brake job every time.

I just finished reading an article on the subject two days ago in a automotive brake trade magazine. We had a discussion about it. That is why I posted the information, it is counter intuitive but 100% correct. Specifications are based on caliper piston travel. The piston will leak long before the disc will fail.

Exactly!! In my years of maintenance, I can tell you I've witnessed countless people that don't know when to check their cars until they stop working. I saw this lady with front brakes worn down so far that the brake pads was gone and the backing plate was worn half way down. The rotors were so worn to the point that the surface was gone and the cooling fins were exposed!! Yea, those rotors were bad and the calipers were still fine and not leaking.

Shouldn't really have been doing that anyway. If you rev match your downshifts, you shouldn't get much clutch wear at all.

Hang on to your misconceptions people obviously you are not interested in actual knowledge. If a trade mag from the brake industry does not mean anything the you are too far gone for me to bother with.

I was referring to article entitled " brake myths busted" in Jan 2012 edition of Brakes and Front End Magazine page 26.

It's not rocket science people.

Check rotor thickness, if minimum thickness is reached, replace.

I agree with you except I have also read trade magazines stating calipers should be changed around 100k miles and struts at 50k.. For optimum performance out of a vehicle, maybe, but in my opinion, that's crazy. Now the author was suggesting ways to make your shop more profitable, but to me that's just ripping people off. And I'm talking the normal passenger car, not our boxsters.

I agree with you Jake. I can't tell you how pissed I get when I hear of people that take their cars to mechanics for simple fixes (not asking me first) and walk away paying 10x more for things they never needed. There are people in every profession that will take advantage, it's worst when it's a profession near a dear to your heart.

^For me that's normal... anyone who has the sense to take their car to the dealership for simple maintenance items deserve to get r***ed...

Dealership don't make money selling cars, they make money doing simple oil changes and maintenance work.

I know a mechanic who works at a dealership admits to me that business is bad and service managers outright lie to customers telling them they need brakes & rotors replaced asap when they have 50% left.

But hey, I hear their free coffee tastes great and their sofas are comfy.

The article did not offer any advice on when to change the rotors it merely made the point that the discard thickness was based on caliper travel not any criteria that had to do with warpage, heat, or strength of the disk.

I understand why, if the disk is worn then there is still a friction surface to stop the vehicle, the rotors will get ruined but the car will still stop as in the case referred to where the disk was worn to the fins. If the caliper piston pops out then there is no braking system at all.

I agree a lot of trade mags are there to sell stuff but there is also a lot of good info there. If you are trying to provide a good service then you will, if you are trying to sell nitrogen to put in peoples tires then you can find that crap as well.

I believe that return customers are the best reward. People bring their cars to my shop because they trust me. Why would I want to foul that up for a lousy benjamin?