I'll be doing this over the weekend. I also have to figure out why my door speakers don't work, but I've just been too busy.

I have a 1998 986 and it only came with the 4 inch dash speakers (why I'm not sure). I replaced mine with the JL Audio TR-400 CXi and they sound great JL Audio TR400-CXi 4" or 4" x 6" Evolution TR 2-way Speakers . You want to stay away from a really harsh sounding tweeter because the sound bouncing off the windshield will only amplify it. I paired my new dash speakers with a nice set of 6 1/2 inch Focal IC165 which I put in my doors and they sound phenomenal Focal IC165 6-1/2" (6.5") 2-Way Integration Coaxial Car Speakers . Just my 2 cents :cool:

I had a pair of MB Quart 4" speakers I bought for my '98 BMW. I just dropped the in the holes and hooked them up. I didn't even mount them to the grills. Sounds 10x better than stock.

Revising a dormant thread, since I saw this post and my searches have turned up no commercial solutions like this....

Where did you see it?

The list f parts you need can be found here:
Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Rear Speaker Installation

Thanks for the link. I think rear speakers are going to be round 3 or 4 of my stereo upgrades.

First is a new head unit, with bluetooth, usb, mp3, etc.

Second are new dashboard speakers, if I can find some adapter rings. Otherwise I might sacrifice the OEM speakers but am less that happy with that idea (don't like to rely on glue, don't like to lose a fall back plan, etc).

Third would be to consider door speakers since our 986 doesn't have them... or to consider some other kind of woofer arrangement.

Fourth would be rear speakers.

Check out the adaptor rings here:

Direct Circuit - The only dealer with the Porsche Audio Speaker Upgrade Kit

Perfect, and a good price. Thanks!

Alas, the ones from Direct Circuit are sized for the 987, second gen boxster, and I have the 986.... sending them back.

Althoguh the way you install it is via connection to the grill, not the dash, here is a photo showing it against the dash opening of our 2000 S, which gives you a sense of the size.

When attached to the grill, even without a speaker attached to it, it is not possible to fiddle it into place since the ring is simply too large with its substantial lip to fit on a first gen dash.

Looks like I'll need to pony up for the JMG solution, which is $50 instead of $20 -- but is sized more conservatively so it fits in a 986.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1362853735.jpg

The ones from Direct Circuit will definitely fit in a 986. It did on mine. Those "slots" around the ring are supposed to be trimmed, and you only need the slots where you're going to mount the speaker.

Hope that helps.

Good to know. Mine didn't come with instructions so I didn't know that. Cool! I will try.

Anyone know if the connector porsche uses is a standard size, so I could go buy something like this instead of splicing into the wires. Hate to make it a permanent solder connection if there is a nice friction one.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1362876773.jpg

Here is my post from the DYI forum ---- http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/33439-dash-speaker-replacement.html


Polk audio db 401

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I replaced mine yesterday with Polk Audio DB 401 that I got from Crutchfield.ca. It took me less than an hour to replace both speakers with most of the time spent on the first one.

1. Removed the speaker from car and brought it to workshop. I removed the three screws and the clip that holds the tweeter and removed them both. These are not needed as the new speaker has the cross over built in with a better tweeter.

2. I used side cutters to cut the plastic cage from the speakers as shown in the first post and I cut the speaker as shown. I also removed the speaker terminals as they are not needed; new one has the terminals already installed and used these.

3. I placed a towel around the new speaker (metal shavings) and proceeded to cut the tabs with a dremmel tool. I cut enough to ensure a tight fit as in original post.

4. I placed the new speaker in the modefied basket and screwed it to the existing grill. The basket gave the new speaker a tight fit to the grill with no chance of it vibrating. I then attaced the included speaker wire harness (VW) to the new speaker.

5. Hooked the harness to the car and tested the speaker. I then installed it in the opening and tightened down the screws. I then removed the other and did the above process to this one.

The sound is fantastic now and will get better once the speakers are broken it. Sounded better today than yesterday with FM and CD's. There is a big difference from the original ones. I would not use the tweeters in the original speakers as it's cross over blocks the tweeter in the new speakers. I would remove the old ones as well as the cross over; new ones have it built in. I have also done the rear PNP speaker upgrade years ago and with both upgrades the sound is very much improved. I may decide to upgrade the head unit with something that "looks" close to stock to keep it "low key". I had read earlier that Harmon/Karden was the one to get but I can't seem to find new units out there. Their website does not indicate that they have this line. Not interested in the booming/flashing displays and nice to have orange which is close to stock.

Wish I tried the Polks
 

I installed the Alpines, and I'm not impressed. When the factory speakers weren't blown, they sounded a LOT better. Thanks for the tutorial and it's a million times better, just wish I would have tried the Polks instead.

What do you not like about the Alpines? I went with some JL Audio and they sound better than the factory speakers (even before blown) but now it's clear to get decent bass, I gotta add bigger speakers or a sub.

FYI, the Direct Circuit rings, when you learn they need to be trimmed, can fit -- unless you are a clod like me and mangle one of them while cutting them down.

I went with the ones from the UK. While the price was 3 or 4x the Direct Circuit rings, there was not cutting and they were precise fits for me speakers and dash -- including nice wiring harnesses that fit perfectly with the factory harnesses.

Note that I'm listening to an aftermarket headunit with a lot more power than the OEM headunit. That might influence the sound with aftermarket speakers which are typically half or less efficient than the OEM speakers.

Right it's exactly the bass level that's the problem. The factory set was able to output lower bass without distortion. Its a problem for me because i don't have the amp to drive the door speakers and i imagine it wouldn't be to easy to rig something. I've always had an Alpine head unit.

Interesting. Our OEM speakers sucked at bass. The main reason we notice it now is the JL Audio are so good, now it's the obvious thing missing. Frankly they can play well to 80hz which is not thumping but most instruments would sound full..... but then the whole dash shakes!