What? Not MAF Sensor!!? Grrrrrr!
 

Symptoms: More cranks to get engine to start, rough idle, Check eng. light. Added injector cleaner to fuel. Problem resolved. Added more fuel, no injector cleaner, after 7 mi. engine started to bog down when accelerator was depressed too rapidly. Next day, engine will only run for a few seconds and then die. I can smell gas, and engine needs to sit before it will start, and then again, only run a few seconds before it dies. Replaced MAF sensor but to no avail. Also cleaned throttle body. Unfortunately, I disconnected the battery to clear the memory so that I would get a current fault code but this was before I discovered the engine wouldn't run. Would bad upstream O2 sensors cause the engine not to run? I'm going to check for vacuum leaks next.

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

P.S. 2001 Boxster S

You might gain some insight from the thread already started, speaking of threads, make sure to enjoy the "easy off" fasteners they deploy to try to stop you from making a simple repair their dealers would prefer to overcharge you for instead.

Ghostrider 310,

Yeah, I was a bit surprised when I saw that I needed tamper proof Torques bits just to remove the
MAF sensor but $20 at the local parts store solved that. As for the other threads, I'm not getting any
fault codes. I don't think the engine runs long enough for them to register?

check engine but no fault codes? sounds strange. Well if you do replace the maf and it doesn't help, then in general look toward checking spark and fuel till you track it down.

Since the battery was disconnected you must let the E-gas relearn it's pedal travel by: Turn key on all the way without trying to start for 60 seconds, don't touch gas pedal during this time, next switch key off for 10 seconds, then you can start car & as always don't touch gas pedal. You need to know what trouble codes the ECU is logging & the P-code #'s but it sounds like there is a problem with the EVAP system. Once you get it started the ECU has to relearn drive cycle maps.

Why do people do this? The codes contained by the computer before you disconnected the battery would have provided some very useful, and economically beneficial, data pointing to the actual problem. When you get a CEL or MIL, get the codes read (and written down) before you clear them. Without the codes, you are throwing money in the dark, usually at the wrong targets. Even a simple $50 pocket scanner probably could have more than paid for itself in just this one problem............

Maybe you should check the fuel pressure. Just a guess. There's a test port on the right side fuel rail.

+1 JFP. I just don't get it. The DME is trying to tell you what is wrong with the car and you simply erase without looking??? :confused:

Now we are back to knowing 3 things. It's either air, fuel, or spark.