Check Engine Light issue

[JFP in PA]

While you can "never say never", to date, we have not had a car throwing 1128 and/or 1130 alone turn out to be a MAF issue, it always turned out to be either a vacuum leak or fuel system issue. A fouled MAF usually throws one of the "implausible signal" (high or low voltage) codes, often in conjunction with other codes. As the RennTech case points out, you can run the car for longer than you might expect without a MAF, as long as you stay below 4K RPM’s and don’t have any WOT excursions, before the car throws any code, and then usually pops a P0102 and/or P0112 (low signal voltage for the MAF sensor and the intake air temp sensor).

[Dale_K]

I had those codes and found an intake leak on the oil fill tube - got it fixed but the light came back. Took it to a shop and got it smoke tested for leaks. Found a small leak but that wasn't it. Bought a Durametric and started tracking fuel adaptation. Finally I found someone who knew what the figures meant. They implied a bad MAF. I got a new one and totally fixed the problem. The Durametric shows normal values now. My point is normally I'm not the kind of guy to throw parts at a problem but in this case a new MAF was the cure.

You might want to get your car smoke checked for vacuum leaks first. Fix those and if no improvement you might need a MAF.

[fullthrottle52]

Thanks to all that left me some answers.
I wish I could narrow it down to one thing but at least I have a place to start.
Can anyone tell me if it is safe to drive the car with the check engine light on for any length of time. I do need to get it to a mechanic. That would mean driving it 10 to 15 miles.

Thanks again for the help.

[JFP in PA]

As long as the CEL is not flashing, it is safe to drive, but I would not be flogging the car until the issue was corrected.

[stateofidleness]

JFP I completely agree with the vacuum leak theory, but in my case it COMPLETELY fixed these codes. A failed MAF can cause bad readings and make the car adjust improperly, which may lead to odd codes (rich, lean, etc).

I know it seems unlikely, but maybe that's why the people posting these codes on the Internet usually never report back.. they may be chasing the wrong thing.

In my case (only offering suggestions here) is the MAF completely fixed my problem and even fixed my cold start "hunt". Car runs 10x better with the new MAF.

While it's not a cheap part per se, the amount of time, effort, lost weekends, owing friends favors, etc that I put into checking "everything else", I would have much rather spent the $250 up front and chased from there.

[JFP in PA]

I completely understand your position. I have to go by what I’ve seen and learned personally, and as such have not encountered what you did. We have had several cars in the shop that threw these codes and the owners replaced the MAF only to have the codes come back. When we looked at them, we found air leaks and the codes did not return. But based upon your and other’s experiences, I will have to open up to the possibility that a dying MAF can apparently cause the fuel adaption to change, which can definitely lead to the lean condition triggering the codes.

You live and you learn…………..

[Jager]

I had these same alarm codes not too long ago... Bad AOS.

Fullthrottle52,
Remove your oil fill cap while the motor is running (after it's warmed-up), what happens? Is the cap hard to remove? Does the idle drop (almost stall) after removing the cap?