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- - Ignition Switch problems (http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/28880-ignition-switch-problems.html)

Search for instructions on going through the drivers side air vent. Easy to remove and give you much easier access to the switch. You may still have to get to the switch to start getting one of the screws loose but most likely not.

Game changer!

Good thread. The issue that I am having is the “Kerchunk” when I pull out the key happens maybe 50% of the time without some help. Is this a problem with the mechanical key assembly or the $10.00 switch? Or both? Knowing these cars, I will guess that it’s not the $10.00 switch. I appreciate the clarity.

Quote:

Originally Posted by robdelorenzo (Post 645099)

Same kind issue - difficulty on removing the key - has been discussed here or UK's Boxa -forum and the reason has been the ignition switch. Yes, in some cases the key barrel / lock assembly.
Also in my car the key operation eased up as I did change the switch (to a new Audi part). I'd start with that to find a cure.

Thanks for that info. I didn’t know about the compatible Audi part. I haven’t gone all the way down this rabbit hole - yet. But I think I had better deal with it soon. I don’t want to be stranded somewhere and unable to start the car. Starting with the least expensive part is always the best bet.
The link above doesn’t seem to work for me.

FYI....there are several You Tube videos of people changing the switch out. Some have worked from underneath while some have worked from above, by removing the left vent section.

Quote:

Originally Posted by xcbxer (Post 248447)

I posted this topic yesterday. It's buried in renntech 996 forums - DIY articles - carrera (996) - common fixes and repairs - thread Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster.

This particular DIY is detailed with many pics showing how to replace the steering lock. Anywway, here's my story of how I diagnosed and did a zero cost fix: ---

My recently acquired 97 boxster (40K miles) came with an ignition switch which was consistently notchy going from 0 to 1. A few times it would not budge. Jiggling the steering wheel and key became tiresome. Never saw any electronic misbehaviour.

First, I went under the dash and pulled the electric switch. Part number was 4A0 905 849 B and obviously had been replaced in the past.

With the electric switch disconnected the key still resisted going from 0 to 1, but only after the key was pulled out. If the key stayed in the tumbler there was no notchiness. I concluded that the steering lock disengagement was the culprit.

Next day I pulled the left side vent and instrument cluster to remove the steering lock. The instrument cluster took 10 minutes and fully exposed the work area - (hats off to those who succeeded thru the vent hole alone). Once the lock assembly was on the bench, why not take it apart before ordering a new one.

There is a square plate crimped in by the aluminum casting. It can be carefully pryed out to expose the steering lock disengagement cam.

With the tumbler and electric switch removed, using a screw driver to simulate the key and with one thumb standing in for the spring, I easily duplicated the original notchiness. Maybe it's no surprise with this mechanism's many rotational and longtudinal friction points, endless mechanical gyrations and tight tolerances.

I intended to remove the circlip from the tumbler end and strip out the locking plunger, thus leaving the car without steering lock. With encoded keys who needs the steering lock function?

However, laying down some molybdenum EP grease on the cam totally eliminated the notchiness. I then sprayed in some McLube (or use Jigaloo) and closed up the gizmo.

For now problem solved - cost zero. If it acts up again somewhere down the road, I'll pull the plunger.

Thank you xcbxer. I knew this problem as I experienced it was purely mechanical and past the switch and tumbler. Especially since it began again after sitting for 3 mo. and in gummy humidity. You saved me a lot of unnecessary expense.