Time to remove IMS bearing using LN Engineering tool kit.

I put grease under the tool nut (nut box end wrench is on) and turned the box end wrench keeping the end of tool (ratchet end) from turning.

Out came the old bearing, it was very easy to remove.

A little movement of the bolt, unlike the new bearing that has no movement at all. Also spinning the bearing was stiff… Not as smooth as the new LN Engineering bearing.

This is a cool picture focused down the IMS, looks like the bearing was getting oil… Good sign.

Per LN Engineering instructions put into the freezer. When cold, install.
I took measurements during the freezer time:
Initial diameter: 47.00 mm or 1.8500 inches
After 1 hour: 46.99 mm or 1.8495 inches
After 2 hours: 46.97 or 1.8490 inches
After 3 hours: 46.97 or 1.8490 inches

Looks like two hours in the freezer at 0 degrees Fahrenheit is enough time.

In with the new IMS bearing. Installing the bearing is not easy; you don’t want to be laying on your back or stomach while trying to install the bearing. The car needs to be high enough so you can at least sit or stand while doing this task. No beer drinking during this task!! I had a heck of a time lining-up the bearing with the IMS shaft (no I was not drinking beer). The trick was to wiggle it back and forth, while trying to insert it, and feel it slip-in the shaft a little before hitting the insert tool with a “dead blow” hammer.

Last task for the day was the installation of the flywheel... Sure looks good. I marked the bolts with black marker after first step torque to 25 Newton Meters and then turning another 120 degrees.

Awesome thread and pics!! I was going to attempt this in my garage as well, great work! Must be a huge sense of accomplishment :)

Great thread, any idea if the old clutch was the original?

Thanks,
~ Nick

It was not the original clutch, but the flywheel was original.

Jager

Super post! Really enjoyed it. Excellent job!

Now, the real question is why this bearing was generally ok (not perfect but still working fine) after 210,000 miles when others fail at 1/10th of that mileage?

Jäger you should get an award for this post ...fantastic work

....and you were using jack stands!?!

One of the best threads
 

One of the best threads I've seen on here. Man, I've learned so much about my
car from you guys.

:cheers:

Clarity of pictures is excellent, enjoyed the read. I have been reading for some time about how to do this and your selection of steps to show was excellent, the nitty gritty steps I'll figure out as I get to them. Enjoy the next 200k miles!

Excellent. Do you have a professional background in auto repair?

I just 1-upgraded my exhaust (Fabspeed), the 2-MAF and 3-AOS went kaput, 4-front shocks had to replaced, 5-front wheels straightened and refinished, 6-new tires (B'stones), 7-new brake pads went in, 8-replaced the ignition switch.....10K miles ago I had to do the 9-alternator and 10-starter, 11-O2 Sensors, 13- clutch, 14-flywheel and the 15-LN IMS unit. :cheers:

I finished the project late this afternoon, including new motor mount installation. I also recorded some data that I am currently looking at.
The transmission installation was fairly straight forward. The trickiest part was installing the clutch slave cylinder located on the top side of the transmission. I have read other posts where guys had a hard time installing this. My trick was to install it before bolting the transmission to the motor. That way you don’t have the full load of the clutch pushing on the fork, pushing against the slave cylinder piston. The bolt holding the slave cylinder was still a challenge but got it in a lot easier than if the transmission was bolted-up.
See the bolt in the attached photo - red circle.

Installed new O2 sensors, the front sensors have a shorter cable than the sensor behind the catalytic converter.

Do you think I needed a new motor mount??

Pan back on... Sure looks a lot different cleaned-up.