Does the Durametric display "pending" codes?
 

My Durametric arrived yesterday and I briefly hooked it up to the car today. I haven't gone through any of the advanced functions but I ran the feature that displays fault codes. Duramteric said my car showed no fault codes, which is a good thing lol, but it made me wonder because I know sometimes you can have a fault but the CEL isn't necesarilly lit until the DME detects the problem in more than one drive cycle. I believe these are called "pending" codes. My generic code scanner does not display these, which makes it hard to diagnose something since you won't necessarily see a CEL even when something's wrong.

So back to the original question. Will the Durametric display all faults, or only faults when the CEL is lit?

I also have the Durametric system and yes it will show fault codes that may not trigger your CEL. I recently cleared two alarms from my 2001 Boxster (P1128 and P1130) that did not trigger my CEL. A possible cause for these two trouble codes is a dirty MAF sensor, so I cleaned the MAF sensor (using MAF sensor cleaner and Q-Tip) then cleared the alarms using the Durametric system. I will check for these alarms later in the week, hopefully cleaning the MAF sensor solved my problem. I recommend using your Durametric tool and check your Porsche's systems occasionally... Stay on top of any minor issues before they become major trouble later.

Thanks. As it turns out, I am also fighting the 1126, 1128 and 1130 codes and have cleaned my MAF sensor twice with genuine MAF sensor cleaner. I want to suggest to you that maybe the sensor is good and you might have a vacuum leak. I found one on my oil fill tube and I was sure that was going to fix my car but the codes came back after 300 miles. I took my car to a shop that had a smoke machine to slightly pressurize the intake system with smoke and they found another leak on the vacuum line to the brake booster where it leaves the engine compartment behind the driver. I just ordered the replacement parts a few minutes ago.

My plan is to fix the vacuum leaks first and use the Durametric to monitor the long term fuel trim and MAF sensor readings. Also the "running lean" codes since I'll be able to see them even if the CEL isn't lit. I ordered a cap for the fuel rail pressure test point since the manual says you can't reuse the old cap and if the CEL comes on again after the current round of leaks are fixed I'll test the fuel pressure because that would cause the codes if the pressure is low.

Then if the CEL still comes on I'll buy a MAF sensor but at least I'll have some baseline readings from the Durametric to see if the new sensor has higher airflow readings than the old one.

Let me know how your repair turns out.

Hey Dale, I'm curious what that cost you to get the system "fogged" for leaks?
I've had that those two same codes off and on for over a year (and while i DO have a minor exhaust leak), I've been meaning to get it in to have my Indy smoke the system.

What should that run me? It's always nice to have some kind of comparison when getting estimates :)

Thanks

My understanding is that the Durametric reads, displays and clears all codes in any module it can read from. I had the enthusiest version for about a week, no codes to display in any module I cheched it against. I've since RMA'd it for the pro version as I want more than to clear codes and don't care for the other limitations including 3 VIN limitataion. If I want to plug it into your car, freds, charlies, bob's or sallie's I don't want the cable telling me nope, sorry!

A local independent foreign car shop charged me $75, which I thought was very reasonable. I think it's very much worth doing since otherwise I would have thrown a $300 MAF sensor at it. I go by the old pilots adage of "believe your instruments". I find it surprising that so many people assume the O2 or MAF sensors are bad and doing them first instead of looking for leaks.

The 986 models typically have a 0.9 to 1.1 V reading at the MAF sensor with the ignition on, engine off. With the engine at idle, the voltage reading should be around 1.4V. IF you're not seeing this, the sensor is most likely bad.

Regards,
paul...

Cleaned my MAF last Saturday (never been cleaned before, I have 209,000 miles on the car... It was dirty) but my 1128 and 1130 alarm codes came back today... Darn it. Now I'm going to take your recommendation and look for a vacuum leak.

(A couple hours later... I edited this post) At another web site I read some information about the AOS. So I started my Boxster and with much effort removed the oil fill cap.... Whooooosh, it sounded like my shop vac and my 986 almost died. I put my hand over the oil fill hole and I thought I was going to get sucked-into the engine compartment!! I don't know what normal preasure is but I think I have an AOS problem.


Jager

Sound like the problem for sure. Hope you see a permanent complete fix.

Dale K

I finally got around to replacing my AOS today… That was fun. It took about 2 ½ hours and if I hadn’t read some of the threads on this site and Pelican Parts I’m sure I would still be in my garage working on it.

After replacing the AOS I started my 986 then opened the oil fill cap. Unlike the other day when the car almost died when I opened the cap, the RPM’s increased and there was not as much suction from the oil fill tube. I cleared the alarms and took it for a spin. I’m fairly positive the AOS was my issue but time will tell.

Jager