Accusump Installed this weekend...
 

It was a pretty straightforward install. The hardest part was the plumbing of the line. I DO NOT LIKE BRAIDED STEEL HOSE!!! Looks good but a ******************** to work with. I noticed that some folks did a connector at the firewall but I just drilled a hole through the firewall and ran the hose through a grommet. I wired the electric switch into the rear wiring harness in the trunk and mounted the toggle switch in the trunk as well. I used the sandwich adapter and spin-on filter adapters from LN. They were really simple and seem like a good solution to me. The trade off is the much smaller filter, but I am going to buy them in bulk and change frequently. I also went with the LN oil pan extension and their magnetic drain plug. If this SOB blows up again, it won't be for lack of oil!!!

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...a/CIMG0322.jpg

Is the deep sump spacer still required when you have the accusump installed? How much work is involved for the install?

I was seriously considering getting the Accusump, until I saw that LNE recommends changing the oil every 1200 miles. That's about $800 a year in oil changes. :eek:

Is that the Corvette oil filter, or does it have to be a smaller one due to the size of the adapter? Does it hang down as low as the oil pan with the LNE deep sump?

If I recall it right, they recommend to change the oil FILTER not the oil every 1,200 miles. If you have the spin on adapter from LN engineering you probably lose 1/2 a quart (but it's still messy)
That's why i went with the B-K deepsump which adds 1/2 quart of oil to the sump

But don't you still lose that 1/2 quart?

No, the deep sump oil pan was not required for the accusump. The shorty filter does not hang below the standard pan. You do lose a little oil in changing just the filter, but I think less than 1/2 quart.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike_Yi I was seriously considering getting the Accusump, until I saw that LNE recommends changing the oil every 1200 miles. That's about $800 a year in oil changes.

haha nooo! you read that wrong. they recommend changing the oil FILTER every 1200 miles. this is because there is no filter bypass for this style of accusump; if the filter gets clogged, the accusump won't be able to discharge properly.

I meant that I installed the deep sump kit instead of the accusump
The additional 1/2 quart in the wet sump is supposed to give you enough oil to safe you from oil starvation as long as you're not on full slicks, then you will need the accusump

Nice installation.....I like the cylinder off of the floor!

The Mantis sump is really deep. Would it do the same job as the accusump apart from nice oil pressure on start-up?

Would I be okay with just a sump on a skid pad and DE stuff. I don't think I will have slicks on my current street car

I did read that wrong. That's going on my list of wants. I'd love to be able to mount that somewhere underneath though rather than in the trunk.

I suppose if you are not doing any long sweeping right handers, then you can get by with just the deep sump. I was looking for some peace of mind that I am not going to sling another rod! You can never say never, but like I said, it won't be for lack of oil if I can help it.

DO NOT drive Road America then.

Hmmmm, wouldn't that apply to left handers as well (example turn 2 in Thunderhill)
The oil pickup tube is dead center in the middle.

No because the Boxster engine has a scavenger pump in the left rear.

Bonus question, and no pun intended here, as I am just considering this as my next mod to get ready for the track season.
So if anyone pulls such high G that he's running into oil starvation problems shouldn't the next mod be the Motorsport AOS, see this thread:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/21641-will-a-motorsports-aos-work-on-a-boxster.

My decision is to wait until it happens again, so far I had it happen only once after existing turn 2 in Thunderhill: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkWsIT6C664
I was on Sport Cups then, this season will be on less sticky Dunlop Star-Spec so I hope I will be OK.

By the way: my other outstanding track mod will be the underdrive pulley, as I fried my PS pump last season

chris -

a better route is to use a catch tank similar to this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-80-206/

route the outlet from the oil separator to the tank & block off the inlet at the throttle. much cheaper & a failsafe solution.

shoot me a message when you get ready to do your accusump (save $$$)

Ouch, are we saying that long sweeping rights will develop high enough g loading on ps2s (as in without slicks)? What sustained g loading threshold are we talking about? I might just put my i-phone up on my dash and set an alarm

exactly right. something slightly less than 1G can cavitate the sump over several sustained seconds. the oil pools in the head AWAY from the scavenge pump & causes a starvation issue at the pickup tube. this is MOST common with left handers in a boxster (right handers in a 996), but depending upon forward accel / decel, this can hapen in either direction. slicks exacerbate the problem, but it DOES exhist even on street tires.

porsche rectifies this for racing customers with its 'motorsport' upgrade, which is basically the same as the X51 oiling mod. they replace the scavenge pumps with versions that have exterior as well as interior inlets. a tube is run from the OUTSIDE of the scavenge pumps, across the valve covers, and to the other side of the motor. this way, the scavenge pumps can draw oil from either side of the motor. they also add the deeper sump w/ a bit higher oil capacity for good measure. some people modify the baffles as well.

at any rate, all of the above is pretty pricey and still leaves the door to other oiling related failures WIDE open. the accusump pretty much eliminates those problems.

i think the accusump coupled with the 3rd radiator kit & the 'S' oil cooler will get you about as close to dead reliable as this motor can be without cracking it open.

here are some photos from chad996's (rennlist) car. note the X51 scavenge pump in the first photo & the gold foil wrapped hard line to the other side of the ead in the other photo:

Okay thanks for this comprehensive response. I don't know how the oil system is arranged but from what you are saying oil pooling the opposing head initiates the problem and not sump sloshing. If this correct, a deep sump won't help if oil is trapped in the head. Is this correct?

exactly. the issue is that the sump can run out of oil. sloshing probably exacerbates this. the deep sump kits w/ an extended pickup tube can help to an extent (as can modified baffles), but the problem can still occur.

It happened to my engine at Road America on Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics (which are rated slightly better than PS2s, but probably not enough to make a difference). I had done several track days on other tracks before with no problem. However, RA has so many really high speed corners that it imposes much more G than tighter tracks with slower speed corners. Add to that the Carousel....

Track related M96 engine failures are not entirely dependent upon high speed cornering and the associated G forces.

Oil that cannot take exceptionally high temperatures without losing its ability to maintain pressure is the single biggest element that we have seen. Oil temperatures of m96 engines can exceed 250F and at that point off the shelf oils lose their ability to maintain pressure. In this scenario the G forces further aggrevate the pressure issues and appear to be the culprint, when they are really just a part of it.

All the issues we have experienced with the M96 failing on the track due to oil pressure issues have been experienced at the end of sessions when the oil is heated exceptionally. I haven't talked to a single person who experienced a failure in the early laps of a DE or track event, only after the oil is heat soaked and thin. In my personal 996 equipped with an accusump I noted this with my data acquisition system on track at Road Atlanta where turn 1 and turn 7 were the worst for oil pressure, but only after the oil temps were eleveated and the session was 3/4 over. That was with coilovers all around and sticky tires.

Just something to consider.. The accu-sump does help a lot. We do not have on- track issues these days, even without an X 51 pan and other measures that are commonly applied to overcome what appears to be the root of the issue.

Thank you VERY MUCH for this explanation
So for people like me who track their cars regularly what oil and probably more important what oil weight would you reccomend
Especially for people who live in hot climates in the summer and don't have to worry about cold temperatures (I am happy to put in a different oil during the off-track (cold) season)

The only oil we have experienced that will stay alive at these temperatures has an additive package thats depleted after only 750 miles of service.. It has to be changed every 750 miles, or generally after just one track weekend.

Thats the problem.. True race oils are exactly that, they have no lifespan.

OK, so I'll add an oil change to the list of things (bleed brakes, change pads, install rollbar, etc.) to the list of things before a track day - I can live with that
What oil is it?

Jake. Very interseting stuff. Is there a theory as to what exact mechanism is causing the loss of oil pressure at elevated temperatures? It is not entirely clear me unless it has to do with oil pump efficiencies/effectiveness under less viscous conditions. Would your transducer placement potentially play a role in the trends you see ?'

quick update:

byron blew his motor at barber yesterday.......three laps in.

Guess the accusump didn't help much...

Sorry to hear another died.

SERIOUSLY? :eek:

Say WHAT??!!

seriously. it still turns over & will run, but it bangs & clatters. weird that it happened right off the bat.

Just got the X51 oil pan and deep sump spacer installed this morning. Accusump is too much for what I need since I don't foresee putting R-comps on and I am not that skillful to push the car to its full cornering limit yet.

I have street tires on my car and destroyed my engine. I had always heard that you'll only have an issue if you have slick. I think Jake's explanation seems most likely. If I ever track by Boxster again (which is unlikely at this point), I will be putting in some race oil before I head to the track.

What grade of oil were you using when things went wrong?

I've thought about an Accusump for my 3.8 since I stuffed the thing in the car, but what comes up in my mind, is rather than running a super stubby oil filter ON the sandwich plate (that needs to be changed extremely frequently), why not just run an in-line filter (available from several sources, including the folks who make the Accusump- Canton Racing), which could be plumbed in and mounted in the rear trunk, next to the Accusump. It's only one more oil line, and a few more fittings.

Surfer you are thinking man! Changing the filter all the time is why I would want to avoid the accusump...maybe you have something here! What filter and hardware were you thinking about?

Take your pick....

http://www.cmfilters.com/oil_filters.html

http://cantonracingproducts.com/store/oil_adapters.html

Just an FYI to those who just want to get the deep sump spacer, X51 oil pan is much better designed than the stock pan, check the photos on this rennlist post below.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/6663161-post10.html