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Where did you find that exended air intake?
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Quote Gary H:
"Hi Topless - some great mods there. How much of a weight reduction is the battery vs stock? And the Seat? How much work is involved fitting the Sump, how much does increase oil capacity by and does it still sit under the under tray? Would you say fitting a baffled sump is absolutely pessary if using track tyres? Were you getting oil starvation problems before fitting? I've never heard of Raybestos - have you used anything else for track and could you compare them to Performance Friction or Pagid?" I think the battery and seat shaved about 30lbs each and I add in 15lbs for the roll bar ext. A modest weight reduction but it also lowered the cg a bit. The seat adds a lot of driver security so you are not sliding around in the car at 130 mph. My local track is the Fontana Roval and it is well known for killing m96 motors. I have 4 friends who tossed their motor on the banked turn 2 and got to go shopping for a new one. I didn't want to join that fraternity just yet so I added the X-51 pan. I am optimistic that it will help as long as oil temps don't soar too high. Installation is simple. The baffles need to be trimmed to fit our car and use very light sealant so it doesn't squeeze inside the motor. Raybestos is well known in racing circles in the US. High in quality and low in advertising budget. The ST-43 has a very high temp range and a lot of bite. It can be used on the street but I find the car hits ABS easily on street tires. I do like them better than Pagid orange or yellow which tended to gum up my rotors over time. Here is my source. They will custom cut a set of pads for any racing application: http://porterfield-brakes.com/manufacturers/Raybestos/ST43.html |
MY97, Tiptronic, owned for 7 years
Maintenance/Repairs: Tiptronic rebuild ×2 MAF replacement ×2 ABS pump replacement Water pump replacement Ignition switch replacement Brake rotors/pads/sensors replacement etc..... Mods/Upgrades: 996 front bumper Glass window roof Clear/red rear lights Clear side markers Jaycar kevlar front speakers - meh... Rear parcel shelf console PNP rear speaker kit - big difference to sound Centre windblocker - a must :D Full coil-over suspension, lowered Aftermarket xenons - only $50 from eBay, what a difference in light output! :D Audi auto dimming mirror - very useful as I drive a lot at night for work :D double DIN GPS/MP3/DVD unit - excellent for obvious reasons :cool: reverse camera - not actually that useful VW in-dash cupholders - no more left hand Coke, right hand steer :D Head-Up-Display - necessary for long trips to reduce eye strain from glancing at the speedo (no cruise control) Brushed aluminium pedals "Glitter" silver full respray :cool: Planned (parts already in hand): Remote central locking with proximity entry Remote trunk release Updated coolant cap DLM fix Spacers Auto wipers/headlamps Dreamin: 3.4L engine |
Could you give more details of your HUD?
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The unit I bought was very similar to this, but without the OBD connector:
It required splicing into the speedo signal (from behind the radio), the tacho (from OBD), illumination (radio), 12V and ground. It also comes with a water temp sensor, which I haven't connected. I might use it for oil temp instead at some stage. My car is off at the painter's coz some woman reversed into my car and then fled when my car was parked (from a witness). I will take some pics when I get it back. I installed it a year ago. But never quite finished it. I wanted to bury the display unit under the dash, requiring me to cut a hole into that long plastic dash trim near the windshield. Never got around to doing that. So the unit just sit on top of it for now. Fully functional though, just not as integrated looking. |
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A photo of my HUD (not the most ideal lighting, but you get the idea):
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Shame it's been removed - good job with the stereo splash screen though - did the same with my Pioneer AVIC. I can see your GPS antenna is on top of the dash? Mine works perfectly underneath that plastic panel.
Any details on the HUD (model make etc.) would be great and I'll do the digging. I take it you're in Australia? My AVIC install: http://www.garyhanda.com/box/avic.jpg |
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All the way back to carburetor engines the air filter housings have had that metal, anteater type intake. If it was good enough for my dad's 396 turbo jet to breathe through, it should be great for a Porsche with the factory cold box set up. I experimented like you then settled for this compromise, I removed the tray cup that partially blocks the intake opening. Then I polished it with a variety of methods which I'm sure is totally subliminal in effect but hey placebos work all the time. Anyhow, it's my take on the intake. |
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I had a car with one of those - a '62 Strato Chief if I remember right. It had a generator rather than an alternator, and a blow-by tube straight to atmosphere (no PCV). Bought that car out of a field for $50 - put a battery in it, cleaned the plugs, and drove it for a year or so. Things were so much simpler then...
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Haha I was going to get another snorkel and chop it shorter. The idea you had would be a fun winter project if you had all the necessary equipment. I have to think Porsche already has that covered pretty well. I really didn't understand the function of the piece I removed, that thing that looks like the dip cup they put holy water in. It certainly looked to me like it was blocking the inlet. As for cones, I think anything that breaks the airbox would just suck hot air, I have seen people put cones into modified closed boxes, I wonder how that set up is? |
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http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/marketplace.asp?curr={95F6530B-7E67-4228-8E06-69F6D2E00060}&depth=30&parentid={95F6530B-7E67-4228-8E06-69F6D2E00060} |
* De-amber side and rear * Bike rack Do snow tires or a hard top count? To the OP - Yes, I just did (list all of my mods)... / |
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Yup, the problem with removing the amber and then using silver bulbs is that you now have no reflector in the housing so are reliant on the output from the bulb alone to indicate - which at night with HIDs is poor and during the day is even worse. I found the brightest opposite pin LED indicator bulbs I could find and they are awesome. As I've only done the front (the rears are silver with a reflector) I don't have a rapid-blink problem (which is sorted by in-line capacitors). No codes thrown on the dash - the car's too old, but does have a field day when you plug in the diag. tool :) Front: http://www.garyhanda.com/box/newf2.jpg Rear: http://www.garyhanda.com/box/exh1.jpg |
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Just installed:
Proximity entry/remote central locking Rear boot remote release |
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