Brake fade idiot light is on .. have a few questions
 

I've been driving around for a little while with the light coming on and turning back off. Now its just on permanently and there's lots of squealing so its time to bite the bullet and get the brakes done.

I called my local mechanic and the quote was $480 for labor both front and rear. Is this normal ? I trust the work of this shop but I was expecting a lower price for a simple brake job.

He also said he always change both pad and rotors at the same time for any brake job and this didn't sound right to me either. Is it actually something special about the Porsche brake design that requires this ? I think my rotors are still OK but I'm not 100% sure. Steering wheel shakes a bit during heavy heavy braking but nothing too violent.

As far as pad / rotor choices, I am going with Hawk HPS and Bola rotors ( if I need them ). I have never tracked ( although want to ) but I do drive pretty aggressively on the mountains near my house. Is this a good pad / rotor choice ?

Thanks!

You don't have to change rotors and pads at the same time. Nothing special about your brakes vs. others.
Those rotors and pads are good enough for what you do.
Labor is reasonable.
Steering wheel shouldn't shake. Likely pad deposit. Possibly warped rotor. If warped, you have to replace. If pad deposit, could rebed the pads and it may just go away.

Considering that new Porsche pads will run you about $300 ($164 for non-geniune), and rotors will cost you roughly $650 ($300 for non-genuine), the price isn't bad. It's an easy job though, so it doesn't require much labor (maybe 2 hours).

If you get Hawk HPS, be aware that these will eat your rotors very quickly, and will generate tons of brake dust. Clean your wheels regularly (weekly maybe) and keep them polished/waxed. Personally, I'd recommend sticking with regular pads for day-to-day driving, and swap out the Hawks for the track. It's an easy job and doesn't take long. In fact, it will probably take longer to jack the car, remove and re-install the wheels than it will to change the pads.

Hawk HPS are not suitable for use on a race track.
I've used a few pads that dust more than the HPS and am alright with it. If you want stopping power, you're going to deal with dust.

The reason I'm going with HPS is because I can get them both from + back from R1Concepts for $260 total which is a great deal I think and I've heard good things about them from other members.

Another possibility is the Porsche Sport pad set which is supposed to be slightly more aggressive than stock but less aggressive dusty than aftermarket ( http://www.****************************************************.com/product/99635198000AND99635298000.html?Category_Code=986bo xsters ) for about the same price.

My mechanic recommends Pagid and Textar which I also see good comments from on the site.

A little confused by all the choice to be honest, but I think HPS is a good bet. A little dust will give me an excuse to wash the car more often. :D

Did all 4 of mine foe about $300 bucks...parts from Pelican. All 4 new rotors made by Balo from Germany. Used Mintex Red Box Pads and I also flushed the brakes. Very happy with them and they feel a lot better than the originals than where on the car. :cheers:

Regardless of pad and disk choices you make, spend just a tad more money and get stainless brake lines while you're at it. Even cheap eBay ones make a HUGE difference in braking. Talk about a firm pedal! It's like night and day.

Hey guys,

Thanks for everyone's tip and advice. Really appreciate it. I contemplated doing pads and rotors myself, since I decided to do the stainless brake lines too, that's too big of a job for me (IMO).

Bought everything from pelicans and it came out to about $650 shipped (including tax).

Weird thing is the front had Balo coated for $72 while the rear only had regular uncoated Balos for $48. Kinda wierd but between that and coated Zimmerman for $130 each, I went with uncoated Balos.

Pad I went with Textar .. about $180 for front and rear !

Lets hope its not a waste of $ !

Clean the oil off the rotors by soaking for about 15 minutes in water with a good degreaser mixed in, hand wash and rinse and thoroughly blow dry them. Now, using the painters blue tape, tape off the rotor area where the pads will make contact. Using a caliper paint, paint the hats and veins and let dry for about a day. Remove tape and install. :cheers:

Thanks for the instruction JCB.

1 question though:

If i want to paint the hat on the front coated balo to match the rear uncoated ones, should I dip it in the degreaser too ? Would that harm the coating already on there ?

I got my Balo rotors in today and I don't think I can use them. I got both of these from Pelicans and I didn't see a coated version for the rear rotors so I got uncoated thinking I can just paint the hat and it will be ok.

WRONG.

The color of the Balo coated and un-coated version is hugely different. The coated version is the lighter color ( although I think the uncoated version looks better ).

Does anyone know where I can buy coated Balos for the rear ?

I wouldn't recommend a water-based degreaser or soaking them.

Use Brakleen and do them twice to be sure you get all the wax/grease/cosmolene off them before installing.

Cheers!