To clutch or not to clutch
 

I'm having my IMS bearing upgraded to the lnengineering bearing next week at a local independent shop. Car (2001 base) has 44k and no IMS or RMS issues, but I'd like to be proactive about preventing one from occurring (mainly the IMS) and the shop is running a special on IMS bearing upgrades. The clutch on the car also works well and seems fine, but would it be silly to try and save $$ by not replacing it while the IMS job is being done? There is no extra labor involved in changing the clutch, just the cost of the clutch kit.

Thoughts?

Yes.

Most of the cost of getting at the IMS is getting the tranny out. At 44k you could very well be due anyways. Do the clutch.

depending on the millage of the car, if you think you'll have to change the clutch in the next few years go for it.. you'll probably feel a difference of a new clutch anyway ;)

absolutely do it. replace the RMS at the same time.

Upgrade!!!
 

Granted, by replacing the clutch you will have to add the extra money for the clutch kit, but not replacing it would be silly!
Here is why, if you don't do it and it goes out in a few K miles, then you have to do the whole nine yards all over again and you'd kick yourself in the rear.
This is also a good opportunity to think "upgrade" to a performance or street/race clutch.
Yes I know, it will add somewhere from $500 all the way to $1300 to your tab, but it is worth every dime.
Check out those links I found for you.
:D

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/sachs-high-power-clutch-disc-porsche-boxster-cayman-p-53196.html

http://jdmultimate.com/i-332849.aspx

I agree with the others, this a no brainer, do the clutch

totally agree. BTW, the stage 1 clutch from Spec is only around $550 and is rated to 340lb-ft of torque. and an Aasco LWF is only another $800 on top of that......what a slippery slope indeed.

EDIT: the $550 from Spec is for the disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing and alignment tool. available sprung or unsprung.

Thanks guys - I also appreciate the links. I will likely stick with a stock clutch just for the sake of simplicity - the car is a "Daily driver" (during the spring/summer/fall) and I have no intention of increasing power or modifying the motor, so I like to think it'll hold up fine. I'm a good (excellent?) driver of stick in general having driven them for a decade exclusively on the road and have thousands of laps on track as well with stick shifts, so I believe I should be able to get maximum lifespan from an OEM clutch. We bought the car with 24k (has 44k now) and everything about the clutch feels fine, but as you mentioned, who knows if it goes tomorrow - I have no idea how the previous owners drove the vehicle though the durametric shows a good amount of level 3 ignitions (redlines) so I have to wonder about how hard it was driven prior to my ownership (though condition wise the PPI showed the car to be excellent....)

Thanks for the help getting over the mental hump - spending $600+ to fix something that isnt broken is a tough pill to swallow, even if the labor is "free".

FWIW the RMS will be updated as well as part of the IMS bearing upgrade service.

Sounds like you'll be doing all the right things!

Now you'll just have to watch your motor mount, your water pump, and your AOS!! :rolleyes:

I'm already leery about the motor mount - it may be a bit past it but i'll get to it in time. No bad vibrations yet.....

With the water pump, are there any tell tale hints, or does it just suddenly go?