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Old 03-09-2014, 06:54 PM   #1
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My driver side window would not drop down enough when opening the door and it would also make a grinding noise while operating (and sometimes stop when in auto mode). My cable was loose, but it was because it had jumped the pulley at the top left. Once I got the cable back on the pulley and lubed the tracks, there was still a little slack (all the green guides were fine, though), so I added one of the bike cable barrels. Now everything works great... until the cable jumps the pulley again - probably when I open the door before waiting for the window to move enough.
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:10 PM   #2
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Great DIY fixes. Props to the OP
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Old 06-21-2014, 04:33 PM   #3
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Still off

Hi all, found this thread, tried the fix with the bike brake adjuster to fix the lack of window drop. Seems to have helped, but the window now needs to go up another 3 or 4 mm, and when it goes down it seems to go too far. It starts to twist the window guide when the window sits down on the down stop from the motor pull. Tried adjusting the upper stops, and tension with the brake adjuster. I'm worried I may in fact need a regulator ?

Thoughts ?
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Old 09-01-2014, 03:55 AM   #4
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Anyone have an extra bike cable barrel they are willing to sell and mail to me?

I know it sounds stupid.. I'm based in HK... I've gone to 3 bike shops and they don't sell them individually... only if I buy the whole brake and cable set!!!
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BTfd2e93 View Post
Anyone have an extra bike cable barrel they are willing to sell and mail to me?

I know it sounds stupid.. I'm based in HK... I've gone to 3 bike shops and they don't sell them individually... only if I buy the whole brake and cable set!!!
Not sure if this is the correct size or not, but it looks like it would work. You need to be sure to get a slotted one, so you can slip it over the cable:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Mountain-Lever-Adjusting-Barrel/dp/B000O5SR4W/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0B8CMN1NZESGVW7VVS13
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:02 PM   #6
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cheers mate. they dont ship to hk .. but lemme try to find similar on ebay.

7mm diameter is the way to go eh?
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Old 09-02-2014, 06:32 PM   #7
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I took apart the right door today to get it fixed, definitely was a cable slack issue. As I was growing frustrated (damn heat), I zip-tied some space between the bracket and the teal cable grommet to tighten it up. It seemed to work, glass didn't catch on the roof so I buttoned it back up. Now it's intermittently catching - when the door handle (outside) is pulled enough to open the car, it'll grab but if it's pulled entirely it doesn't seem to.

Also it's likely not enough tension on it, so I'll get back in there sometime soon and add the cable adjuster (which I procured today). "New" (used) regulator will stay in storage until needed.

Now I realize I didn't add any zip-ties around the spring housing. D'oh!
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:14 PM   #8
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Funny this thread came back up.

Last week the pass. regulator crunched out, seems my "temporary" (read: lazy) fix came undone and the cable got twisted and came off of the pulleys. Just replaced the regulator with a nice used example I bought from Woody, and all is well again.
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Old 09-08-2015, 05:11 AM   #9
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I just tried this but I think I ended putting too much pressure on the line. It makes a cracking sound going up. Does anyone have a close up on how the line is suppose to fit back into the roller behind the speaker?
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:05 PM   #10
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Question for Dave and Chuck Re: window regulator fix

Facing the exact same issue. Both failed within one week of each other. Dave, since you had to drill to get the adjuster in place, I assume you had to disconnect the cable and move it out of the way. That would also allow you to remove the tip from the cable housing. Can you share how that is done?

Chuck, since it looks as if you did not have to drill, can you tell me how you got the adjuster in place? Was there enough slack in the cable to get it in place?

Thank for these tips. My mechanic wanted 1,200 to install two new OEM regulators!!!
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:25 PM   #11
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I can't answer your question, but here's an eBay listing from a forum member:

Porsche 996 99 05 986 Boxster 97 04 Right Passenger Side Window Regulator | eBay

Woody probably has some too:
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-parts-sale-wanted/52469-parting-out-whole-lot-boxsters.html

Quote:
Thank for these tips. My mechanic wanted 1,200 to install two new OEM regulators!!!
Swapping out the regulator isn't much harder than just doing the fix. I guess if the mechanic was buying a couple OEM regulators with full mark-up.... Did he offer to give it a fresh lube before putting it in?
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Old 03-10-2016, 04:00 PM   #12
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Cole9900, I sell the window regulator/motor as one for $50. I'll gladly walk you through it if you come here. You wouldn't be the first person I've helped replace their regulator using my tools. It's real easy.
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:40 PM   #13
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Woody

You are a stand up guy
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:31 PM   #14
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You are a stand up guy
Why thanks and you too Helping each other out is what we do here right?
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Old 11-02-2018, 04:20 PM   #15
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I'm missing something here. 10 How did you determine which green plastic bushing to work on? does it matter? the one in the photo looks just like mine....not broken or damaged but the bottom one is accessible, the top not. 2( how did you get down to the bare wire cable? the cable has a thick plastic and metal housing it slides through. It seems that the cable is wrapped around a pulley that is covered on the outside and I don't see how to get to the bare cable to get the split clamp on it. Will the clamp simply thread itself into the green plastic bushing? What does the plastic tie do? I need some help please

Last edited by rockstar68; 11-02-2018 at 04:31 PM. Reason: left out words
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Old 12-28-2018, 04:20 AM   #16
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I hear you

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockstar68 View Post
I'm missing something here. 10 How did you determine which green plastic bushing to work on? does it matter? the one in the photo looks just like mine....not broken or damaged but the bottom one is accessible, the top not. 2( how did you get down to the bare wire cable? the cable has a thick plastic and metal housing it slides through. It seems that the cable is wrapped around a pulley that is covered on the outside and I don't see how to get to the bare cable to get the split clamp on it. Will the clamp simply thread itself into the green plastic bushing? What does the plastic tie do? I need some help please

I have read the entire thread and I think I follow the instructions, but there seem to be some pictures missing from the 2010 posts. I know it is over 8 years but this thread seems to be worth piles of gold. I've got to dig into my issues which appear to be the same as everyone else's so before I go and buy new switches & regulators for almost $300 I'll be happy to try some zip ties and cable turnbuckles. If anyone can put together a step by step that would be awesome.
cheers.
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Old 02-07-2019, 02:00 PM   #17
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Did the window regulator fix to my drivers side (left) door today. Front cable had a lot of slack. All green inserts ok, all cables are on their pulleys as far as I could tell. I carefully cut the green cable insert/holder off of the slack cable with a dremel. Should have left it on and added the bicycle adjuster behind it. Barely had enough adjustment to take out all the slack and leave enough of the adjuster to fit into the pulley assembly.

Works like a champ! Thanks Dave S!

The original green fitting pulled all the way out of the pulley fitting. That’s a lot of slack.


The green fitting after I Dremeled it off.


Done!






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