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Dave, mine looks exactly like yours but the cable insulation is too big to fit into my brake barrel. how did you figure out that it was the problem? my window issue seems exactly like that is wrong with others on this thread. so guess the question is, should i just go ahead and cut the green adapter and put on mine?
one thing i did notice was that the slimmer end of the green adapter slide into the metal housing. not sure if this is normal or not. |
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thanks Dave, ill try those things this week.
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Maurice,
Nice to know you are still helping 986 owners out. Followed you on Petes forum. My 1998 boxster was in storage for a couple of years. been changing out oil etc. Still have pax window down will not go up switch out drivers with pax switch. No go. 40,000 miles on car now engine lite on changed fuel cap still on. Can you help out? |
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Just did the same on the passenger size window. Great DIY
Thanks this is what I ended up doing. when the window was up all the way, the slack in the cable was half an inch or more and the cable can be seen. but all the green end pieces were fine. so the pulley grove must be worn. by removing the hair clip like pin by the motor drive, I was able to take the green end piece off and take the cable out of the pulley using the notch cut out on the pulley fence. (used photo from member bar10dah's entry in this thread) purchased a bicycle adjuster with 1/4 inch barrel and similar size thread. filed off roughly 50% of the thread and with light application of Teflon oil, threaded the adjuster into the green piece. placed the green end (with the adjuster attached) into the window regulator and while compressing the spring by the motor, routed the cable back onto the pulley. put back the pin by the motor and then adjusted the adjuster. I did not have to take the regulator out of the door. cable tie solution seems to be problematic in that the green piece would no longer sit flat onto the housing and on the motor end, would extend the spring-loaded plunger too far out of the cylinder. |
Glad this is working for everyone that has tried it. My window still functions perfectly after all this time. I fixed the pictures at the beginning of this thread as I'm using a new free picture hosting service now.
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Here is another approach that worked great for me. I recently sold my 2000 'S' and the gentleman accidentally put to much stress on the window (I didn't show him well enough how the doors open with the top up) and either the cable stretched or a piece broke. Well anyway he came over before leaving for Kentucky and we came up with the great fix.
Using a bicycle cable barrel (yellow arrow) in the exact shape as the factory barrel (orange arrow), only smaller, we were able to pull up the 1/4 inch slack preventing the window from dropping far enough to open the door. It is kind of like stacking barrels. To do this we had to file down the area the factory barrel recesses into (see green arrow). This allowed us to snap the barrel back into place since it was not possible to pull the cable enough to get the barrel back into the hole it seats in. This fix would go very fast but while learning we dropped the cable off the pulley (red arrow). The cable is hard to get back on. There is a little notch in the pulley for getting it past the guide. Once back in though we were able to put the fix together. I'd like to thank everyone that posted here, this forum still rocks. Saved us big time.http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1381711446.jpg |
Thanks Dave S for sharing this tip.
used the bikecycle cable adjustment and it worked out fine, and i'll hope this will stay for a while... http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1381958986.jpg |
My driver side window would not drop down enough when opening the door and it would also make a grinding noise while operating (and sometimes stop when in auto mode). My cable was loose, but it was because it had jumped the pulley at the top left. Once I got the cable back on the pulley and lubed the tracks, there was still a little slack (all the green guides were fine, though), so I added one of the bike cable barrels. Now everything works great... until the cable jumps the pulley again - probably when I open the door before waiting for the window to move enough.
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Great DIY fixes. Props to the OP
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Dave,
Any idea what the cable size is for this DIY. I suspect it's 8mm, but want to be sure! Thanks! |
Oh HELL F*CK NO! Your OEM Motor will not fit on there properly. I had to make it fit. Not worth the saving!!!
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Still off
Hi all, found this thread, tried the fix with the bike brake adjuster to fix the lack of window drop. Seems to have helped, but the window now needs to go up another 3 or 4 mm, and when it goes down it seems to go too far. It starts to twist the window guide when the window sits down on the down stop from the motor pull. Tried adjusting the upper stops, and tension with the brake adjuster. I'm worried I may in fact need a regulator ?
Thoughts ? |
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I removed the regulator. It turns out the little bead that is crimped onto the cable came out of the slot on the window clamp. It was above the clamp and thus was jamming the window down too far. Re-set, lubed, re-installed, minor adjustment to window height with adjustment screw set, and all is well !
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Anyone have an extra bike cable barrel they are willing to sell and mail to me?
I know it sounds stupid.. I'm based in HK... I've gone to 3 bike shops and they don't sell them individually... only if I buy the whole brake and cable set!!! |
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http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Mountain-Lever-Adjusting-Barrel/dp/B000O5SR4W/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0B8CMN1NZESGVW7 VVS13 |
cheers mate. they dont ship to hk .. but lemme try to find similar on ebay.
7mm diameter is the way to go eh? |
I took apart the right door today to get it fixed, definitely was a cable slack issue. As I was growing frustrated (damn heat), I zip-tied some space between the bracket and the teal cable grommet to tighten it up. It seemed to work, glass didn't catch on the roof so I buttoned it back up. Now it's intermittently catching - when the door handle (outside) is pulled enough to open the car, it'll grab but if it's pulled entirely it doesn't seem to.
Also it's likely not enough tension on it, so I'll get back in there sometime soon and add the cable adjuster (which I procured today). "New" (used) regulator will stay in storage until needed. Now I realize I didn't add any zip-ties around the spring housing. D'oh! |
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http://i60.tinypic.com/1658aq.jpg |
Funny this thread came back up. :D
Last week the pass. regulator crunched out, seems my "temporary" (read: lazy) fix came undone and the cable got twisted and came off of the pulleys. Just replaced the regulator with a nice used example I bought from Woody, and all is well again. |
I just tried this but I think I ended putting too much pressure on the line. It makes a cracking sound going up. Does anyone have a close up on how the line is suppose to fit back into the roller behind the speaker?
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Question for Dave and Chuck Re: window regulator fix
Facing the exact same issue. Both failed within one week of each other. Dave, since you had to drill to get the adjuster in place, I assume you had to disconnect the cable and move it out of the way. That would also allow you to remove the tip from the cable housing. Can you share how that is done?
Chuck, since it looks as if you did not have to drill, can you tell me how you got the adjuster in place? Was there enough slack in the cable to get it in place? Thank for these tips. My mechanic wanted 1,200 to install two new OEM regulators!!! |
I can't answer your question, but here's an eBay listing from a forum member:
Woody probably has some too: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-parts-sale-wanted/52469-parting-out-whole-lot-boxsters.html Quote:
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Cole9900, I sell the window regulator/motor as one for $50. I'll gladly walk you through it if you come here. You wouldn't be the first person I've helped replace their regulator using my tools. It's real easy.
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Woody
You are a stand up guy :cheers:
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Old thread, but just wanted to say thanks...
Just implemented this fix and it completely resolved my 'front of the window isn't dropping quite enough when I pull the handle' problem on my 996 Turbo. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1521575199.jpg http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1521575222.jpg |
This is obviously an old thread as previously stated but I wanted to say that the zip-tie fix worked for my passenger side window (2000 S); it would lower as normal but would not "close" when I shut the door.
$3.89 in zip-ties and an afternoon for a newbie (me) made it worth it. Thank you, Dave S., for the effort and sharing. |
ims bearing.
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Hello Pedro - this is out of topic but just have a question and need your input. I leaving the country for 3 months, I thinking to drain some oil maybe 2 quarts from my boxster so the IMS bearing was not submerged in oil, then When I get it back will add the the oil again. Maybe you have some input. Is it bad for engine to be low on oil when not driving/using it anyway. Just to save the IMS bearing of engine oil/acid that might/will penetrate in there. thank you for your input. |
Regulator fix
Yes, the ties work amazingly. Mine was the one in front of door bottom. Works fine again. I give ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ For this .05 cent repair.
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I'm missing something here. 10 How did you determine which green plastic bushing to work on? does it matter? the one in the photo looks just like mine....not broken or damaged but the bottom one is accessible, the top not. 2( how did you get down to the bare wire cable? the cable has a thick plastic and metal housing it slides through. It seems that the cable is wrapped around a pulley that is covered on the outside and I don't see how to get to the bare cable to get the split clamp on it. Will the clamp simply thread itself into the green plastic bushing? What does the plastic tie do? I need some help please
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I hear you
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I have read the entire thread and I think I follow the instructions, but there seem to be some pictures missing from the 2010 posts. I know it is over 8 years but this thread seems to be worth piles of gold. I've got to dig into my issues which appear to be the same as everyone else's so before I go and buy new switches & regulators for almost $300 I'll be happy to try some zip ties and cable turnbuckles. If anyone can put together a step by step that would be awesome. cheers. Thom |
Did the window regulator fix to my drivers side (left) door today. Front cable had a lot of slack. All green inserts ok, all cables are on their pulleys as far as I could tell. I carefully cut the green cable insert/holder off of the slack cable with a dremel. Should have left it on and added the bicycle adjuster behind it. Barely had enough adjustment to take out all the slack and leave enough of the adjuster to fit into the pulley assembly.
Works like a champ! Thanks Dave S! The original green fitting pulled all the way out of the pulley fitting. That’s a lot of slack. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a3d4209ea5.jpg The green fitting after I Dremeled it off. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...738605a5d4.jpg Done! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9ddf230731.jpg Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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