Fixed (for now) Window doesn't drop - Adjusted regulator cables
 

So I tried the search but didn't see that same issue:

Today the passenger door window wouldn't drop enough to clear the top when you open the door, and then when my wife closed it, it hung up outside the top. I opened the door and the window drops slightly, but not enough, and then if I push down or sligthly forward on the back edge of the widow it drops, the rest of the way it is supposed to. When you close the door it goes all the way up.
So it seems that something is allowing the glass to hang up even though the mechanism is lowering the proper amount.
Has anyone had the issue and if so how do you fix it. I've already told my wife to stop closing the door by pushing on the window;-).

Dave S.

You might do a search here. There is a trick that involves winding the windows all the way down (or up) and holding for 15 seconds. This resets your windows computer calibration. May or may not be your problem.

Regards, PK

Thanks. I actually ran the windows all the way up and all the way down several times and they work fine, like I said, when you open the door, the window mechanism seems to drop, bu the glass only moves slightly down, and I can manually push the glass down another 1/4 inch or so by pushing down on the window. When you close the door, it goes all the way up.
It's a 2003 Boxster S with 20,000 miles on it. I was wondering if there is something that needs to be lubed or a part where the window connects to the mechanism that gets loose of worn ouy quickly. And I'm sure it doesn't help that my wife has a habit of closing the door by pushing on the window.

Dave S.

like pk2 said, they may need to be reset.

first un plug your battery. then hook it back up. you can tell if they have been reset because when you tap the switch, they dont auto go down like they did before.

now. with the top up and locked, door closed, put the window up and down , and up and down, and up and down.... you can tell when the computer learned when you tap the switch and the window auto goes down.

now open the door, the window should drop.

if it still hangs than you know you have a physical problem rather than an electrical.

the door rails are known to crap out. I would carfully take off the door panel at this point and look to the window on the rails, see if it is hung up on some junk like a piece of broken sound proofing.

while you are at it hit the rails and the gears with some white lithium grease in a spray can.

that should do it.

"Today the passenger door window wouldn't drop enough to clear the top when you open the door"

1. I had the battery disconnected and both of my doors all of the sudden no longer perform the "Drop-down feature" correctly. The Bentley manual instructs to perform a "Window Motor Standardization" by raising the window with the top closed and holding the window up button for 5 seconds. Others suggest running the window up, then down, then up, double clicking the up button, then running windows down and double clicking the window button. There are other variations, but none are working. My window is moving a little, but is still brushing the top. If standardization is successful, the window would drop 13mm (1/2 inch) when a door is opened and would clear the top.

2. The Bentley manual indicates that if standardization does not work, then the a manual adjustment of the window regulator is needed. The window adjustment involves mounting screws (fore/aft), clamping jaw (window angle), Torx (window height), and rails (window rake..alias sealing). Some people suggest that the dealers just replace the window regulator when this problem occurs (maybe because the rails are damaged or the stop is broken).

3. I have also heard that the Central Locking Computer (CLC) controls the window and is known to cause erratic window behavior...especially if the CLC gets wet (located under left seat).

4. There are various micro-switches (1998-2000)that determines if the top is open, inner/outer door handle is pulled, or the a door/bonnet/trunk are opened. This signals are used by the CLC/alarm and to control window/latch opening/closing. The CLC receives almost every signal on the car.

Window Motor Pin 1 <- Contact Switch (from Door)
Window Motor Pin 2 <- Comfort Close (from Pin 42 of CLC)
Window Motor Pin 8 <- Comfort Open (From Pin 40 of CLC)
Window Motor Pin 5 <- Release Tap Up (From Splice 132, from Fuse B6)
Window Motor Pin 3 <- Move Window Down (From Center Console Window Button)
Window Motor Pin 4 <- Move Window Up (From Center Console Window Button)
Window Motor Pin 7 <- 12V
Window Motor Pin 6 <- GND
Door Lock Pin 3 <- Lock (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 8 <- GND
Door Lock Pin 5 <- Key Contact Closed (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 6 <- Key Contact Open (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 4 <- Door Contact (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 7 <- Safe Contact (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 2 <- CL Motor (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 1 <- CLS (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 9 <- Safe Motor (From Door Lock Module)
Conv Top Microswitch Lock & Unlock <- Conv Top Open/Close (From CLC Pin I/6)

The inside and outside door handles are spliced together with the Door Contact (Pin 4) and should open the door if Pin 3 is unlocked.

I am interested in understanding how to troubleshoot whether this repair requires a new window regulator, just a window adjustment, a switch or a CLC.

Thanks. I think I'm just going to have to take the door apart and see what's going on in there. It appears the electrical is working properly, but there is either something binding against the glass or the track. Since I had the new stereo installed and speakers installed in the door I have an annoying rattle coming from the passenger door when the stereo is cranked and I want to dynamat it anyway. Sounds like this will finally get me to take care of that problem at the same time.
I won't work on it until my dynamat arrives, but I'll post up something on what I find.

Dave S.

nono do not take those measures it will be something very simple.
reset normally fixes it, first send them up then send them down but hold for 25 seconds then try.

if not check the fuse i bet its blown.
this normally happens on a dead battery.

Thanks, I'll definitely try to reset the windows before ripping the door apart. I can't look at it until this weekend.

This is the usual symptom for a failed window regulator. If you search for that term, you'll see some tutorials on what they do when they fail and how to replace them. Try the easy stuff to diagnose it, but 99% chance, you need a new window regulator. People have tried to repair them, but no one has come up with a fix that lasts. I have a failed on in my closet right now. Next time one of mine fails, I'm rebuilding it, using parts from my old failed one.

So after trying the reset, with no success, I took the door apart and found that the window has exceessive play in the regulator cabling system allowing the widow to move about 1/2 inch up and down when it isn't rolled all the up or all the way down. The driver's side window shows no such play in the system.
How can this be adjusted so the cables are tighter.
I can't believe the regulator itself is worn out since this car only has 20k miles on it and it's the passenger side, which is used less than the driver's side.

Stretched cables is the typical reason regulators fail. There's no way to adjust the tension AFAIK. Given the ~$200 cost of a new regulator, somebody would have figured out a fix by now if it was possible. Unfortunately, you've gotta bite the bullet and replace it. Not too bad a DIY, actually. In one of the other regulator threads you'll find a link for really good step-by-step instructions.

Fixed for now - Adjusted window regulator cables - Window drop
 

That is exactly what my problem appears to be, the cables need to be adjusted and there is no adjustment. I can't understand how Porshe could design such a POS with no adjustment.

I refuse to spend $200 when I can get the same result for less than 5 cents. I ended making my own adjusters for the cables. It's a little ghetto, but it got the job done. I realized I had to pull the outer sleeve back to tension the cables, just the way the bicycle cable and the throttle cable on my other car are adjusted. I ended up pulling the outer sleeve back from where it attaches to the regulator and putting a wire tie around the collar as a spacer. I did this in a couple of places and while the window still has too much play, it tightened things up enough that it now drops the proper amount and doesn't interfere with the top when you open the door. It was way cheaper and easier than replacing the regulator.
I am very disappointed in the design and I'll find a better fix for this in the future, but for now I have the door back together and it's working again.

http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg

Microswitch or regulator
 

My drivers window doesn't drop enough to open the door without scraping on the top. How do I tell if the problem is the microswitch on the handle or the regulator. The window does not move if I try to push it down.

It would help to know what year and how many miles on your vehicle. Try reinitializing the travel limits on your window. Run the window all the way up and hold the button for five seconds, then all the way down and hold for five seconds. My hunch is the regulator cable is stretched and needs to be replaced. IMO use OEM regulators.

Pelican Parts has great DIY articles available; https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm

I don't welcome the opportunity to have to perform any door repairs.

Last week wife told me the passenger window rear in the 2012 Edge Sport fell. Sure enough...

Granted it's a few miles away from turning 185K.

I removed the plastic door panel to reveal a huge plate bolted on the door... like 9 bolts. Removed them... one was stripped but I manhandled it off (never to be used again). I was held up by what appeared to be a POrsche design (a bolt on one side of the door when the other side would have been more efficient). I tried... but gave up.

I subscribe to the practice of trying to fix it first myself then... if no go... take it in.

Called my glass guy... so I picked up today a window regulator... and will take it to him to remove the old one.. install the new one... button her up... outta there. $125.

Kudos to those guys who are facking with wires... cables...and tolerances.

On another note... wired up and installed the engtine compartment fan manual switch this morning. So... both radiator fans and the engine fan: Done.

Now to find something else to do...

When mine was doing this, it turned out to be the door latch assy itself. They can be found used easily enough. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233659722845.

Not hard to swap out if you know the tricks and have the right size 12 point.

if it is dropping at all, or not enough, all indications are the window regulator. Don't bother with a cable tensioner, replace it. 100 dollar part and less than an hour of your time. I have had great experience with the URO, installed 5 or 6 of them over the years and all still working perfectly. Others have derided them
Quick tips:
set the screws on new regualtor to match old as this gets you really close if not perfect on adjustments AND spread the clamps that grab the window in advance. You dont remove the bolt, just loosen it and make sure the rubber glove is seperated. thank me later.
:+)

!997 Boxster with 101,600 miles. Window drops when I put top down but not when I open door. There is no play in the window if I push it or pull it. That's why I think it could be the microswitch.

there are three microswitchs, one for interior handle, one for the outer handle and the door latch assembly.
the drop of the windows when lowering the top is not related to the 1/2 inch drop when opening and closing the door.
if it is dropping at all, or not enough, all indications are the window regulator, otherwise, the likely culprit is the doorlatch MS, unless one or the other door handles work.
Most reliable fix is to replace the door latch assembly. Dealer (ouch), pelican (also ouch) ebay around 100 bucks or look for someone on the forum that rebuilds them for you.
NOTE: you need a triplesquare socket to remove and inspect the doorlatch.

Good point! If the window moves even a minute amount from either the door handle or the interior handle, look at regulator issues. If you have no movement from the door handle, but the interior handle moves the window, you have a bad door handle. If you have movement from the interior handle but nothing from the door, the interior handle switch is bad. If you have zero movement from either the door or the interior, you have a bad door latch.
Rebuilding them is not always a wise option, our latches were used on almost every 986 and 911 from 1998-2004, go grab a used one.
And forget the option of using a VW or Audi latch, the brains do not talk well to our central alarm unit. Like I said, when mine went bad, latch from a 911 solved my issue. My symptoms were no drop at all from either door or interior.