Mass air sensor replaced, TB cleaned and still have high idle??
 

Was sure the MAS was failing, so replaced. Cured the flat spot at 4k+ and the surging idle but now have a high idle. Yesterday I cleaned the TB (egas) and got some improvement but now have a consistent high idle of 1-1100. It will float down on occasion but it is consistently high. Any ideas?

do you have a cel ? double check your work for a vacuum leak

What MY (to determine e-gas or not)?

Did you disconnect the (-) terminal on battery recently?

How far driven since?

It is an egas car, it is throwing a P0507

What a crap little car. This is the kind of thing I would expect from a no name manufacturer. I am gonna wind up spending $1000 for a $.30 piece of plastic. I bet the MAS is still good and I wasted $250 on that.

There are many things that are crap on a Porsche, but vacuum leaks are common to pretty much every make. Hoses get brittle after years of heat cycling, and then you have to wrestle them to get the MAF and TB off. My Ford and Mazda are the same way.

-james

Totally agree. You should trade it in on a Nissan Cube or whatever it is teenagers are driving these days.

is your oil cap on tight... is there a vacuum leak? you cant very well blame the vehicle if you put it together wrong.

If you get frustrated now, you're going to lose all enjoyment of the vehicle before you've even owned it for 6 months.

When I first got my '98, I searched high and low in Colorado and New Mexico for a 1 owner car with a decent amount of miles, in good overall condition, that hadn't been wrecked and rebuilt, for under ~12k. It took me about 4 months to find my car.

As soon as I started driving it, I noticed that it drove funny on the highway.
Hit the gas, and the car would pull to the right. Let off the gas quickly from higher rpms, and the car would pull to the left.

Later that week, I started looking at the car, and realized that I needed an engine mount, and a right rear strut. A couple weeks later, and my brake wear light came on. So then I needed new pads and rotors front and rear.

A couple months later, and the windows would roll down the 1/2 inch, and stay there, unless I manually rolled them up. Did some quick testing, and that lead me to buy a new microswitch for the top at the release latch.

In the middle of summer last year, as I was exiting the track day event at HPR that I was having a blast at, the CEL came on. When I got home, and hooked up the car to my Durametric tool and my computer, I learned that I needed a new MAF (just like you!). I actually tested my car, and read the readings to know I needed just the MAF, however.

A couple months ago, I had the rear window crack on me when I was putting the window up. Just last month, I heard this God-awful cracking noise as I was operating the convertible top, and the right side of the top became real loose.

I just fixed that one today by buying the black ball stud plastic cap things, and a new ball stud, and nut (that isn't mentioned anywhere in the parts fiche, I might add! Bastards!), and putting it all together. Don't ask me what happened to the old ball stud and nut. I can't find them anywhere.

So, if you were to add up all the things I've had to fix on the car, you would think that the car is nothing but a headache. It isn't. It's just the small price of admission to the great joy there is to be found when you're tearing up a mountain canyon road, with the top down, and the beautiful engine noises singing to you.

Its a used car, and all used cars have issues either when you buy them, or soon after you start driving them. That's just the nature of a used car. Otherwise, what's the incentive of the previous owner of getting rid of their car if its perfect?

Just be patient, fix your AOS tube with some duct tape for the time being, and get some enjoyment out of your car.

You'll be much better off if you do that.

BC.

Just frustrated. It actually started idling normal for two short trips but on the way home from the second one it started idling high again.

I pulled off the AOS line and inspected it closely, it did not appear to be cracked. I ran the car with it off and the AOS port plugged and it seemed that it did help so I guess its possible the leak is further downstream. There is A LOT of vac coming off of the port. There is a light but steady stream of vapor coming out of the AOS, that seems normal to me.

I did tape the ventilation line and check to see it was properly seated. I rechecked both side of the T intake tube and observed while the car was running. Does not appear to be leaking there.

I have a hard time enjoying it when its not running right. :( I think that my expectation that a 56K mile Porsche ought to run correctly is a very reasonable expectation considering the mileage and condition of the car.

That is a Very reasonable expectation, and you have every right to vent your frustration. I really enjoy my 2000 2.7, but it seems to be luck of the draw as to how reliable any Boxster will be. I believe that the bean counters outrank the engineers at Porsche. There is no excuse for the way too many modes of failure. I am 60, have owned many cars. I recently had water pump replaced for second time, $800.00 at dealer. I also need to replace my coolant tank for second time, for crying out loud. 84,000 k on car. And I'm just mentioning the little things. F Porsche must be rolling in his grave. I enjoy the car because of the things the engineers were able to sneak past Porsche management.