Royal purple XPR 10w40 question
 

Hi,

I'm almost due for my oil change and one of my friends friends... has Royal Purple XPR oil for sale, he'll give me 10qt for 100$ which is similar in price for regular PR or amsoil (I don't pay tax and shipping to this guy)

I have a couple of questions..
1. Is it good for my boxster? XPR is racing oil.. I don't race, my boxster is a daily driver to work and back

2. I'm worried about leaks.. car is 10 years old.. I have zero history of work done.. I'm worried that RMS could start leaking (I read that PR clean it out very well) I don't have 2k for RMS and clutch now I'd rather have sludge keeping it from leaking for time being

Should I get RP XPR? or should I just stick to M1 0w40 that is in the car now?

Thanks
Sasha

While I recognize what I am about to say will start a debate: never the less, it needs to be said.

I would not use any product from this company. All of the various oils and gear oils we have looked at over the years (and we looked at a lot of their stuff) have been questionable at the minimum. Virgin oil analysis has demonstrated a significant lack of consistency in the unused products, indicating poor quality control in manufacture; UoA’s have demonstrated that their products shear down and fall out of grade way too quickly. Add in the fact that RP has regularly made claims and used questionable “legalese” concerning what ratings the products hold, and you have to begin to wonder what is going on. Probably the worst was when then claimed ACEA ratings, but got called out on it and eventually had to admit that they never submitted their products for ACEA mandated testing. Yet they continue to say their products are “recommended for ACEA applications”, whatever that is supposed to mean.

While we have not tested everything they make, the products we have looked at have not demonstrated the level of performance you would expect for the price they charge; and their ethics are questionable. You decide………

And I would not continue to use the Mobil 1 0W-40 either, but for different reasons that have already been beaten to death on this site as well as other oil oriented sites..............

As JFP stated regarding the debate, oil issues have been beaten to death on this and other forums. I've used RP for years in my cars (mostly 911s), but for one reason or another, have switched to Castrol Syntec 10W40 for the last couple.

I will not use Mobil 1 or any other 0W40 product in my Box S...too thin.

You can usually find Castrol Syntec for under $5 on sale at AutoZone or comparable.

I found the last ten quarts of Mobil 1 10 - 40 W high mileage formula, my car only has 30K but it was the best synthetic I could find in that range anywhere in the entire city. I figured the "high mileage" formula wouldn't hurt anything, hope that is right..

Mobil 1 10W-40 is a much better product than their 0W-40, but you can still a lot better yet for less money.................

Maybe with free shipping, the selection here was so weak I did look online! So apparently, until later in Spring, I can't do any better for the money.

Go to your local Wal Mart, buy the 5 quart containers of Castrol Syntec 10W-40, a better oil and sells for about $23 per 5qt container, and no shipping............

didn't use the XPR, but i did use RP.

can't say i found any reason to think it was worth the extra $$

Ditto on tonycarreon's experience. I've got the Castrol in my car now.

I don't like product bashing. Especially from highly suspect individuals.

http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

"In the 0 up to 40 weight category, it seems Mobil's new 0W-40 produces terrific power, insignificant viscosity loss and a middle-to-fair wear particles rating."

Also just so you all know:

Zero-based viscosities, means naturally less friction. Less friction means MORE horespower.

i sense an oil war starting...

- that article is 5 years old
- i can only state my experience
- others on this board have invested considering time and $ in their oil selections and i generally value their opinion
- if you like a particular oil, keep using it

Zero-based viscosities, means naturally less friction. Less friction means MORE horespower.

At the expense of greatly increased engine wear and tear...

Yeah!! According to that link, Mobil 1 makes the most hp! :D

Seriously though...I guess I'm gonna be the guinea pig here. I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 on my car since the get go (it's an 01 base with 62k miles on the clock now), with oil changes between 12k-15k mile intervals or every two years (whichever comes first). Strictly by the book (according to the owner's manual). Let's see how long my engine lasts. Knock on wood.

So far, no engine issues whatsover except a broken water pump at 59k miles. I even threw in a bottle of Techron Concentrate about 1200 miles ago, and have not changed the oil yet because it's not time to change the oil according to my schedule. :D

FWIW, a friend of mine changed his oil (also M1 0W-40 exclusively), on his 2000S every 10k miles until he sold it (still running fine) at over 100k miles on the clock, for a 2006 987S. He also never experienced any engine problems whatsoever.

This is not correct, wear occurs at startup with cold oil. Zero winter weight is supposed to be less viscous in colder temps, thus reducing friction.

Ten weight winter oil would by comparison have more viscosity which equals less flow, less flow equals more friction.

Hmmm... I only see viscosity loss results for 5 of the oils tested? Though they even mention, viscosity loss is not expected in such a short test.

An oil with "middle-to-fair wear particle rating" is one you'd choose, not good or excellent?

Also of note: AMSOIL is rated #1; coincidentally, the website is an authorized AMSOIL dealer!

Low viscosity oils are used for increased H.P. and fuel economy ( reduced friction ) , not for increased engine protection. The site states ( concerning 0 wt. oils ), "for regular street-driven engines, it would be better to look at an oil with a good service interval". Check the descriptions given by any supplier of racing oils, they call 20 wt. oils "qualifying oils", and recommend 30-50 wt. for longer races.

Steve

Bottom line:

The brand of oil chose is like which color is the most popular. All modern synthetic oils are good.

I'd agree with that. But why use "good" if you can get "better" or "best"

Better or Best is ALWAYS subjective.

I haven't used RP in my Porsche, but I have both the motor oil and gear oil in my Mazda right now. Kinda tough really to know how good an oil is unless you tear down the engine after 100K miles or have a lab and everybody claims their oil is 10X better than the next guys. All I can say is the gear box shifts smoother now and I recommend the gear oil for sure.

When I first purchased my Boxster, the consencious was that Royal Purple was pretty good stuff, in fact my first oil change was to the Royal Purple 5w-40.

I kept on researching oils and once I learned about polyoester based oils I figured these are what I'm going to use. If your interested in POE (group 5) oils look into Red Line, or Motul 300v oils. Since we live relativly close to a Red Line source, Summit Racing, we went with Red Line.

In the end, it's your car, run the oil your confident in. :cheers:

JFP; +1 on Syntec

I switched from the Mobil1 to the 10W-40 Syntec after reading good comments here.

Like it better than the M1 and I do feel a difference mostly upon start up, it seems to run smoother. This comparison was after finally installing the Pedro's sport engine mount (nice..!) and the reduced vibration with the Syntec was noticeable.

PS, However I paid $25 at Walmart for the 5qt jug... :p

I would really like to understand the difference between oil weights, benefits and drawbacks.

I understand the whole viscosity thing, and what the two numbers in the multigrade oils mean, however it seems there are as many men as opinions in this debate. I have heard people say that thinner oil is better as it squeezes into gaps more easily, especially upon start-up, and hence is a better lubricant. I have also heard the reverse. I have heard people switching to lighter weight oil as the car ages, and others the reverse. What is the absolute truth, if there is such a thing?

I remember switching from Mobil 5w-50 to Mobil 0w-40 and immediately noticing the engine seemed to rev more freely and cleanly, whilst at the same time my coolant temp was running slightly warmer. To a rank amateur such as myself, this is a confusing result. One would assume the engine feels more free which would imply LESS friction, but why the HIGHER temp which implies MORE friction?

If anyone could shed some light it would be great. I know there are many articles out there, unfortunately most of them written by hacks who are not mechanics or engineers, and are probably based on nothing more than speculation.

All info welcome, just please no oil wars! :matchup:

Daniel

I posted a thread about Royal Purple 0-40. I tried it last summer and i switched it the next day back to Mobil 1. I experienced unusual smoke from the exhaust and then hesitation while driving. Im not sure if it was 100% the oil or not but i switched it the next day and it never happened again so......

UOA's on Castrol Syntec 10w-40 have been quite good. Not going to argue that it's the "best" oil, but when the UOA's are good, that works for me.

Big fan of the Motul, but man, not cheap!

+1 on Motul. I use it on motorcycles and my 986S. I've used just about everything they offer, from hand cleaner to tech grease to MoCool coolant. None of their products have ever let me down, but its definitely not the cheapest thing out there.

This is not correct, wear occurs at startup with cold oil. Zero winter weight is supposed to be less viscous in colder temps, thus reducing friction.

Ten weight winter oil would by comparison have more viscosity which equals less flow, less flow equals more friction.

I'm not talking about cold start up wear...I'm more concerned about the thin oils ability to hold up under high temp conditions; i.e. shear. The base stock is just too thin and does not provide adequate protection under heat.

Run what ever you like...it's your engine.

Daniel,

If you'er interested in learning about the different properties of oils, and various lubes, check out 'Bob is the oil guy.com' http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php


Lots of good info, sure there's some B.S. too, but one can usually figure it out! :cheers:

From what I understand group 5 base oils (polyoester) was developed and patented by Dow Chemical. Since they still hold the patent (IIRC) group 5 oils such as Red Line and some Motul lines cost quite a bit more. I don't mind paying up for it, but that's just me.

not at my wally
 

Quote:

"Go to your local Wal Mart, buy the 5 quart containers of Castrol Syntec 10W-40, a better oil and sells for about $23 per 5qt container, and no shipping............"

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

We have 5 wal-marts in my town and none sell Syntec 10w-40 in the 5 qt jugs. Only 5w-30. Also went searching to many napas, auto zones and advanced auto parts. Same story.

Finally an auto zone guy offered to sell me the 10w-40 qt containers at the same price as the 5w-30 jugs ($28.99). Worked out to be $5.80/qt. More than I wanted to pay but cheaper then the $7.49/qt

Changed the oil and washed the Boxster today and took her for the first ride since Halloween. Seems so much faster now.