Royal purple XPR 10w40 question

[eightsandaces]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Mobil 1 10W-40 is a much better product than their 0W-40, but




you can still a lot better yet for less money.................

Maybe with free shipping, the selection here was so weak I did look online! So apparently, until later in Spring, I can't do any better for the money.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by eightsandaces

Maybe with free shipping, the selection here was so weak I did look online! So apparently, until later in Spring, I can't do any better for the money.

Go to your local Wal Mart, buy the 5 quart containers of Castrol Syntec 10W-40, a better oil and sells for about $23 per 5qt container, and no shipping............

[tonycarreon]

didn't use the XPR, but i did use RP.

can't say i found any reason to think it was worth the extra $$

[j.fro]

Ditto on tonycarreon's experience. I've got the Castrol in my car now.

I don't like product bashing. Especially from highly suspect individuals.

http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

"In the 0 up to 40 weight category, it seems Mobil's new 0W-40 produces terrific power, insignificant viscosity loss and a middle-to-fair wear particles rating."

Also just so you all know:

Zero-based viscosities, means naturally less friction. Less friction means MORE horespower.

[tonycarreon]

In the 0 up to 40 weight category, it seems Mobil's new 0W-40 produces terrific power, insignificant viscosity loss and a middle-to-fair wear particles rating.

i sense an oil war starting...

- that article is 5 years old
- i can only state my experience
- others on this board have invested considering time and $ in their oil selections and i generally value their opinion
- if you like a particular oil, keep using it

[jmatta]

Zero-based viscosities, means naturally less friction. Less friction means MORE horespower.

At the expense of greatly increased engine wear and tear...

[Boxtaboy]

Yeah!! According to that link, Mobil 1 makes the most hp!

Seriously though...I guess I'm gonna be the guinea pig here. I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 on my car since the get go (it's an 01 base with 62k miles on the clock now), with oil changes between 12k-15k mile intervals or every two years (whichever comes first). Strictly by the book (according to the owner's manual). Let's see how long my engine lasts. Knock on wood.

So far, no engine issues whatsover except a broken water pump at 59k miles. I even threw in a bottle of Techron Concentrate about 1200 miles ago, and have not changed the oil yet because it's not time to change the oil according to my schedule.

FWIW, a friend of mine changed his oil (also M1 0W-40 exclusively), on his 2000S every 10k miles until he sold it (still running fine) at over 100k miles on the clock, for a 2006 987S. He also never experienced any engine problems whatsoever.

[landrovered]

Originally Posted by jmatta

Zero-based viscosities, means naturally less friction. Less friction means MORE horespower.

At the expense of greatly increased engine wear and tear...

This is not correct, wear occurs at startup with cold oil. Zero winter weight is supposed to be less viscous in colder temps, thus reducing friction.

Ten weight winter oil would by comparison have more viscosity which equals less flow, less flow equals more friction.

[stephen wilson]

Hmmm... I only see viscosity loss results for 5 of the oils tested? Though they even mention, viscosity loss is not expected in such a short test.

An oil with "middle-to-fair wear particle rating" is one you'd choose, not good or excellent?

Also of note: AMSOIL is rated #1; coincidentally, the website is an authorized AMSOIL dealer!

Low viscosity oils are used for increased H.P. and fuel economy ( reduced friction ) , not for increased engine protection. The site states ( concerning 0 wt. oils ), "for regular street-driven engines, it would be better to look at an oil with a good service interval". Check the descriptions given by any supplier of racing oils, they call 20 wt. oils "qualifying oils", and recommend 30-50 wt. for longer races.

Steve

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Go to your local Wal Mart, buy the 5 quart containers of Castrol Syntec 10W-40, a better oil and sells for about $23 per 5qt container, and no shipping............

JFP; +1 on Syntec

I switched from the Mobil1 to the 10W-40 Syntec after reading good comments here.

Like it better than the M1 and I do feel a difference mostly upon start up, it seems to run smoother. This comparison was after finally installing the Pedro's sport engine mount (nice..!) and the reduced vibration with the Syntec was noticeable.

PS, However I paid $25 at Walmart for the 5qt jug...

[Daniel R]

I would really like to understand the difference between oil weights, benefits and drawbacks.

I understand the whole viscosity thing, and what the two numbers in the multigrade oils mean, however it seems there are as many men as opinions in this debate. I have heard people say that thinner oil is better as it squeezes into gaps more easily, especially upon start-up, and hence is a better lubricant. I have also heard the reverse. I have heard people switching to lighter weight oil as the car ages, and others the reverse. What is the absolute truth, if there is such a thing?

I remember switching from Mobil 5w-50 to Mobil 0w-40 and immediately noticing the engine seemed to rev more freely and cleanly, whilst at the same time my coolant temp was running slightly warmer. To a rank amateur such as myself, this is a confusing result. One would assume the engine feels more free which would imply LESS friction, but why the HIGHER temp which implies MORE friction?

If anyone could shed some light it would be great. I know there are many articles out there, unfortunately most of them written by hacks who are not mechanics or engineers, and are probably based on nothing more than speculation.

All info welcome, just please no oil wars!

Daniel

[violametallic-S-]

I posted a thread about Royal Purple 0-40. I tried it last summer and i switched it the next day back to Mobil 1. I experienced unusual smoke from the exhaust and then hesitation while driving. Im not sure if it was 100% the oil or not but i switched it the next day and it never happened again so......

[mts]

UOA's on Castrol Syntec 10w-40 have been quite good. Not going to argue that it's the "best" oil, but when the UOA's are good, that works for me.

[941MXVET]

Originally Posted by Daniel R

I would really like to understand the difference between oil weights, benefits and drawbacks.
All info welcome, just please no oil wars!

Daniel

Daniel,

If you'er interested in learning about the different properties of oils, and various lubes, check out 'Bob is the oil guy.com' http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php


Lots of good info, sure there's some B.S. too, but one can usually figure it out!

From what I understand group 5 base oils (polyoester) was developed and patented by Dow Chemical. Since they still hold the patent (IIRC) group 5 oils such as Red Line and some Motul lines cost quite a bit more. I don't mind paying up for it, but that's just me.

[lizBox]

Quote:

"Go to your local Wal Mart, buy the 5 quart containers of Castrol Syntec 10W-40, a better oil and sells for about $23 per 5qt container, and no shipping............"

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

We have 5 wal-marts in my town and none sell Syntec 10w-40 in the 5 qt jugs. Only 5w-30. Also went searching to many napas, auto zones and advanced auto parts. Same story.

Finally an auto zone guy offered to sell me the 10w-40 qt containers at the same price as the 5w-30 jugs ($28.99). Worked out to be $5.80/qt. More than I wanted to pay but cheaper then the $7.49/qt

Changed the oil and washed the Boxster today and took her for the first ride since Halloween. Seems so much faster now.