Micro Scratches
 

Just bought a black 01 Boxster with only 5600 miles. It's in great shape but seems to have alot of fine swirly scratches. What products and process would be recommended to try to work out the micro scratches and give a final wax coat.

Thanks,
Russ

Sonus pre-wax cleaner/polisher

Klasse All in One

Klasse Sealant.

Sounds good. What do I apply them with? And then I assume a standard circular hand application and removal?

Russ .....Klasse sealant for sure. I even use it on my glasses. One trick I was told: apply VERY thin; you'll learn it's a bear to buff out micro ridges once it dries.

...another: I use a cloth perhaps 2x3" (50x75) and do not go round-round - long straight lines only.

My weather has been so crappy in MD I've had the time to get six coats on it. I top it with a bit of carnuba wax. ...compared with an SUV, polishing the Boxster is like cleaning the tea service.

Beforehand, use both pre-wax and clay bar for best results. Folks at autopia.com were a good osurce of product and more application info.

Have at it - the results are worth it.

Jim

Yes, if you have any surface pollutants (you can feel them with your fingertips) use a clay bar first.

I use an radom orbitatal buffer for the first two applications (ie the Sonus and the All in One). The sealant simplies goes on with a small waxing pad.

I use microfiber towels to buff.

Tip--To remove sealent, you some detailer spritz to help you remove the sealant.

Finish off with large wool buffing pad to make the shine blind you!

Good luck! :cheers:

Try a bit of Meguiar's ScratchX. Its probably the only product I buy at the local auto stores like PepBoys, all the other stuff I buy has to be purhased from Pro Detailer sites like Autogeek.net and Autopia. Try the ScratchX with a Porter Cable 7424 orbital polisher which you can buy on Sale at Coastal Tool. It will speed up the process because polishing out micro marring by hand can take an eternity.
P21S paint cleaner or 1Z paint polish is also good before using the ScratchX.
Best to work with a 100% pollutant free surface.
Then as others have suggested, I would use the Klasse Twins (All in One and Sealant Glaze). S100 is a great carnauba topper wax for $15 once you have added all your Klasse SG layers. I top with S100 once a month.

A word of advice. Buy some Waffle weave towels from Autopia. I keep them in my car during winter so that the car wash(hand car wash only) guys have a scratch free/swirl free towel to dry the car with. When winter is over I never go to a car wash. This where 90% of the swirling happens due to using dirty wash mits and cheap cotton drying towels. Avoid all auto store towels, even the microfiber ones they are bad quality and all are made in China with cheap threading machines. Look for the Korean made ones they use much more expensive splitting. For final buffing use a dedicated Concours towel instead of microfiber towel, Atopia has a great Concours towel. Microfiber towels with their prickly ends are really meant for lifting off dirt and removing just waxes and polishes. The Buffing towel should have smooth tufted loop ends instead of prickly ones. Speed not pressure.

The less you touch the paint the fewer the swirls.

Eeek! For a second there I thought I read:

"Finish off with a large wool Brillo pad to make the shine blind you!"

Sure am glad I re-read that because I was headed for the kitchen to find one under the sink and get busy tomorrow morning. Blinding is the right word alright... I'd have cried myself into blindness! :D

Man, that would have been "berry berry bad!"

:D

microfiber towels
 

Hi, Brucelee! I glad that someone has had good luck with microfiber towels.

FWIW, I tried microfibers on my old C43 (black) and my wife's 325i (also black) for washing, drying, and applying Klasse. The microfibers always left small scratch patterns, especially on the Bimmer. I don't know about the quality of the microfiber towels I purchased, but I purchased them from the Klasse rep. at the San Francisco Import Auto Show! The scratching was so bad that the microfibers now are only used to clean the cars' glass windows.

Now, I wash and dry the cars with well used, well washed, 100% cotton bath towels and use old cotton t-shirts to apply and buff the Klasse. No swirl or scratch problems! The towels and t-shirts are washed between use.

Removing excess Klasse: I asked the Klasse rep. about this and he mentioned that he had a special product he would sell me to remove the excess sealent. It looked and smelled like well diluted all-in-one or sealant. Back at home I filled a spray bottle with plain water and lightly sprayed the Klasse build-up. After buffing lightly with a t-shirt the shine looked great.

FWIW...

......Rubba-dub - Klasse on my tub.


http://www.wetstuff.com/Box/headlamp.jpg

http://www.wetstuff.com/Box/taillamp.jpg


jim

Nice, is that Arctic Silver?


yeah you have to be careful with the microfiber towels on paint surface. Some MF towels really should only be used on interiors.
Microfiber is used to make everything from janitorial suplies to socks. Its no indication of th quality of the thread. Turtle wax or anyone else can slap a "for cars" label on any MF towel.


Here's my prewinter 17 SG layer project with 1 layer of S100 carnauba.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...15_36_full.jpg


my old car with a bunc of layers of Klasse SG and P21S

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...57_23_full.jpg

Hmmm....
 

I'm so glad I read this today before I went downstairs with my 'little bucket o' stuff". I have a ’01 lapis blue, the paint looks beautiful however there is a little dirt/pollution along the front bumper. I had been using autopia.com as my reference center and ended up ordering some products (3M perfect-it II rubbing compound, 3M hand glaze, Pinnacle carnauba wax, foam applicator pads as well as some of their microfiber pads) Is the 3M product going to be too much for what I’m trying to do? Should I try the Klasse product instead? I’ve used the 3M on my other cars and have never had a problem however their paint wasn’t German. I’d appreciate your opinions. Just for kicks I’m pasting a link to a car I have on ebay… I’ve used the 3M perfect-it on this one for a couple of different trouble spots and it’s always worked fine. Bruce… if you notice the ebay page, look at the number of hits… do you have any links or ads you’d like me to post for the next couple of days? Lol… this car has been getting a lot of traffic.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4539808253

P-L: No, Seal Gray. Color is soooo hard to reproduce perfectly. Funky lighting..in the garage..no flash...my Mac see's color differently than PCs..etc.

...BUT: 17 layers! You musta had an ankle bracelet to keep you home that long.. And I can tell you; there's sure no Mazdas around here that look that good. Good for you.

_______________________________________


TNcg: I don't think there's marked differences between clearcoats. I'd test your 3Ms on the under-radius of the front bumper before you bring it up to a reflective surface. I doubt - unless you are using powertools - you can harm the surface.

I've never been a fan of 'rubbing compound' because in the old days it was always pretty severe. Mothers has a 'clearcoat conditioner', it's a little smelly like too much bubblegum, but I use it with air tools and have never hurt anything in the process.

Shine on!

jim

....one point of posting the pics: DO use it on gloss plastics. BUT, mask off any matte finishes, cloth, rubber, etc. It's easier to mask than to have a steady hand.

3M makes fine products and should be fine on your Box. Klasse is IMHO simply a better set of products.

Pure old fashion rubbing compound should only be used by folks who are very skilled in its application on clear coats. Mistakes are costly indeed!

Guys, someone on my watch forum asked about this so I went back to my detail shop and made a quick how to for him. My watch forum is private but I greatly encourage anyone interested in scratch removal to register for two minutes and check this detailed thread with photos.

http://www.newturfers.com/bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=27107

The best way to develop technique is to work these harsher products on surfaces that you can little about. That way, if you go to hard and gouge the surface you are not so concerned.

If you have a relative's car and they are less than concerned about their old clunker, volunteer to "detail it" for them!

;)

Does no one just use good ole fashioned Zaino anymore? That used to be all the rage...and now everyone saying Klasse'....

Never tried Zaino but have heard good things about it.

Yeah, I'm another satified customer so I'm just going to stick with it. It probably similar to the Klasse' product in terms of reflective shine.

Zaino does it for me and you can waste (errr... spend :) ) just as much money on their full range of products. Obligatory mirror-like shiny picture here.