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Life of a transmission mount
Lately there have been several discussions about the front motor mount and I think we all now well aware of the symptoms and solution. Yesterday at Boardwalk Porsche their tech who works on race cars said that over time transmission mounts fail too but the degradation is less noticeable. I imagine that's because they are hydroelastic dampeners. What life span should one expect out of a 986 transmission mount and are there any symptoms indicating that it's time to replace?
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I would think that this would be very dependent on use and abuse, ie how aggressively the car has been driven. Hard to know what the "average mean time" to failure would be. I bet Porsche would know. |
I just replaced my transmission mounts on my 2000 986 S. The symptom was drops of dark, viscous oil leaking from about 1 foot inside the rear wheel, which eventually grew worse. (This oil is the damping fluid inside the mounts). The leak was on the passenger side only, but the mechanic told me that the other mount was close to failure also.
OEM Porsche mounts were $324 each, and 4 hours labor charge. |
If you are replacing the tranny mounts ....
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If you purchase the Boxster mount it comes with the bracket as well with doesn't deteriorate at all. The trick is o buy the motor mount for the 993. It is the same damper that the Boxster uses, but by itself it costs half as much. Happy Boxstering, Pedro |
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Looks like my trans mounts are going bad, i get a very faint rocking sensation on accel and decel and I just replaced my motor mount but the problem is still there.
My question is, does the 993 mount (993-375-049-05) also work on the S model? I have a 2003 S with a 6-speed. Thanks everyone. |
Because the trans mounts are fluid filled, they will start to leak when the rubber breaks down far enough. Until they leak, its hard to know how far gone they are without removal - and once you've removed them you might as well replace 'em. Once one of them leaks, replace both.
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Are there upgraded, polyurethane mounts that people use? Stiffer mount and takes away the future leak issue.
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Don't buy the whole part for $350+. You only need the dampener which runs about 60 or so dollars and just reuse the triangle bracket. You'll need one of those star type sockets, I forget the size. Drivers side is a piece of cake, passenger side is a PITA!
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It's time to change my motor mount and tranny mount.
I am thinking of using a semi sold motor mount and just a new oem tranny mount. Will there be a lot more vibrations because of using a semi solid mount together with a stock mount? I am trying to get rid of the slack and stiffen up the car a little but don't want something too stiff that it is not enjoyable. |
Just changed out the front rubber/metal cylindrical mount in my box yesterday. Getting ready to install the engine after a complete rebuild. If you do not have access to a press, I'd suggest buying the entire aluminum mount with the insert already in it if you are going back to the stock rubber mount. I replaced just the rubber / metal cylinder using a hacksaw (removal - easy) and for installation, a large clamp, 2 1/2 PVC conduit reducer, 3 pound sledge hammer, and a machinist vice as a press. I broke the clamp, the PVC reducer, and the vice. The sledge hammer survived. My back is still sore. If I can manage to upload the photos I'll post them on the DIY section, only this is a DDIY (Don't do it yourself). If I were to do it again, I'd buy the entire mount assembly, and just bolt it in.
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Of course, your tolerance level might be different/higher but I do drive my Boxster to/from the track and around town a bit with 450/500 lb springs and the PSS9's set to full hard so I'm not afraid of some harshness. |
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