Problem with acceleration

[Topless]

Yup. Clutch it is.

[Lordblood]

Originally Posted by Topless

Yup. Clutch it is.

So I have to change the clutch, any other things that needs repairs while I'm at it? Should I change the flywheel or leave it as it is?

[fragdude]

I believe your mechanic will take care of the things associated with changing a clutch such as a new throw out bearing, most likely resurfacing the fly wheel, new pressure plate if needed, etc. But you shouldn't need a new fly wheel. The clutches usually come in a kit with everything you need and the parts should not be more than 400 bucks. If your pressure plate is fine you only need to change the clutch and throw out bearing which lowers cost by a nice amount

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/996M/POR_996M_Tclutc_pg1.htm

Personally, if I was going that far into the engine I'd change the flywheel, Bentley says to scuff it with scotch bright if it's glazed; I don't like that idea at all.

[Kirk]

Yup, sounds like a slipping clutch. How many miles do you have on the current clutch? The link to Pelican Parts is good. You can get the pressure plate, clutch, and throw out bearing as a kit for about $400. You can simply check the flywheel to see if it's within the serviceable limit, which it probably is. There's no issue really with keeping it as long as it's clean. If not and there's enough material left, get it resurfaced. The replacement for my S at Pelican is $670. It can't hurt to change it, but if it's good, then why throw the money away?

Kirk

[ekam]

I thought we have dual-mass flywheel which is not servicable? That's not if the OP changed to an aftermarket flywheel previously.

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by ekam

I thought we have dual-mass flywheel which is not servicable? That's not if the OP changed to an aftermarket flywheel previously.

Generally that's true. The traditional lathe/cutter tends to 'skip' on the flywheel surface leaving it 'choppy' and ruining the cutter. Some shops have done it, but most will not and Porsche does not recommend it. But, the flywheel should be cleaned up assuming it's not warped or hot-spotted.

Just like a brake pad and rotor, the clutch deposits a layer of the friction material on the flywheel surface and it's this friction material-to-friction material contact which makes the best bond. ScotchBrite or even 80 grit sandpaper will clean the old material off the flywheel surface so the new clutch can lay down a new layer as it 'beds-in'.

Originally Posted by Kirk

Yup, sounds like a slipping clutch. How many miles do you have on the current clutch? The link to Pelican Parts is good. You can get the pressure plate, clutch, and throw out bearing as a kit for about $400. You can simply check the flywheel to see if it's within the serviceable limit, which it probably is. There's no issue really with keeping it as long as it's clean. If not and there's enough material left, get it resurfaced. The replacement for my S at Pelican is $670. It can't hurt to change it, but if it's good, then why throw the money away?

Kirk

IMO because if it takes a dump before the next clutch is worn out, or chatters upon reassembly, you have to spend all that money again to get back at it, way cheaper to eat the 600 clams up front. Once a dealer did the belts on my 944, when I got it back it was leaking like the Exxon valdeez. They had ruined the seal doing the repair, when I asked why they didn't replace it they said, you didn't ask us to. Well yeah true enough but at that time I didn't know the propensity of the seal to be damaged and they did but never suggested replacement. They replaced the seal and charged me for the complete job, no responsibility taken for their F^&kup, now their out of business, sweet karma sweet karma..

[Sputter]

I suppose the RMS should be checked and have the updated one installed since the tranny is out. You don't want to re-spend the cash later when the RMS starts to leak.