Help w/ Electrical Problem

[Stroked & Blown]

Haven't driven the box in a couple weeks, and when I went out to open it this morning the battery was dead.

Tonight I did the emergency hood release trick....which was a lot of fun, btw....and charged up the battery.

Problem is, the batt is now reading > 12V across the terminals, but I can't open the door & the light in the front trunk is still off.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what to look at?

Something to note: I disconnected the radio, hvac controls, & dash switches a few weeks ago, but have driven it since. All of the connectors appear to be hanging out the front of the dash and don't look like they're shorting/crossing.

[Stroked & Blown]

Well....ended up auto-xing the G instead on Sat.

I disconnected the negative batt terminal for a few hours on Sunday hoping something would reset itself, but no luck.

If anyone has any pointers, it would be much appreciated.

Also, does anyone know if there's a way to get into the cabin (pop the doors, drop the windows, etc) from inside the front trunk area?

[renzop]

Can't you just use the key in the lock?

[Stroked & Blown]

No, it's electrically actuated & the actuator isn't getting any juice.

[Lil bastard]

You're likely getting 'power supply interuption' codes from the alarm and/or DME. You'll need to hook up to a PIWIS or PST2 to clear them.

[Stroked & Blown]

Can I do that from the Front Trunk?

[FrayAdjacent]

Seriously? The key won't work in the door? Since my remote is fubar, I have to use my key all the time in the lock. It feels like it's actually moving the lock, the OTHER door lock is actuated by something. You should still be able to get in the driver's door with the key.

[Stroked & Blown]

Looks like I have a broken lock mechanism.
Had AAA come over and open it today....engine fired right up.
I'll be hitting up the stealership soon to get the lock looked at.