Normal coolant temperature gauge range
 

Guys;

New to Porsche since 2 months now. What a great car so far. In normal 70 MPH speed and 80F outside, my temperature needle stays at the beginning of the 8 (180). When stuck in traffic, it goes to the end of the 8. Is this typical needle positions?

I did check, cooling blowers starts when needle pass the 8 from (180 F.)

Tks!

Very normal.

Thanks!

Thierry

It's normal, maybe even better than most. Mine hangs around the 0 in 180. :cheers:

I think the 987's run cooler than the 986's. Our gauge shows "175" at the 12:00 position and my needle is always pegged on the left side of the "7" when fully warmed. I have never seen it rise even near the "5".

Could the 987 actually run cooler?

I live in Phoenix, summer temps here are reguarly 110 deg. F and higher. Mine never goes more than about 1/3 of a division above 180 deg. F.

Water pump replaced
 

My water pump went (at the most unopportune time of course... long story, it involves trip to Germany, Nurburgring, 6 hrs of waiting, and a long drive home in a rental... ) so I have just had the water pump and thermostat replaced. Picked up today - warm day here (25'C) in Netherlands and car was running at temp with needle cutting through the "0" on 180. Seemed to swing a little above under load, but came back down. This is a little higher than previous - is thermostat likely to be set at different temp? Should I be concerned? (model 986, yr 2000).

BTW, for anyone contemplating a service at around 75,000 miles, suggest you throw a water pump in. I have heard some horror stories at this mileage now, and I am lucky I didn't do a head gasket.....

Ps...
 

..why does it require full pump replacement and not just the impellor? Not that I am that concerned as I imagine the pump bearings took a beating anyways....

The pump has essentially 6 parts - 1. the case, 2. the shaft, 3. the seal, 4. the bearing, 5. the impellor and 6. the pulley.

#'s 2 - 5 are pressed either on the shaft or which is then pressed into the case. If you could get the component parts as a 'repair kit', which are available for a number of cars, just not the Boxster, you could rebuild the pump if you had access to a hydraulic press and the appropriate sleeves and/or impact rings. But, you'd likely approach or exceed the cost a rebuilder can offer it for. The shaft/seal/bearing may have a negative fit, that is the case must be heated (usually boiled) to expand sufficiently to accept them.

If your pump worked hard enough (miles/Km) to wear out the impellor, there's little doubt the bearings and seal were near the end of their service life as well. Considering the work and expense (coolant, etc.) involved, it doesn't make sense not to rebuild or replace the entire pump assembly.