Coolant condensation on...
 

Guys;

Found that my coolant level is a little low. also, there is condensation on the rear trunk inside, just top of the coolant & oil access. There is also condensation under the coolant/oil fill plastic floor that is removable. Is there any leaking problem with Boxster coolant cap??? Is this an available replacmeent part? Expensive???

By the way I did look under rear trunk mat, there is no hidden coolant in there.

Tks!

It sounds like the cap and it's not expensive.

I've got the same thing, I wouldn't worry about it. I chalk it up to the sealed off area around the filler cap. Normally radiator caps aren't sealed in an air tight area and the heating and cooling of the fluid will build condensation. Every time I pop open the truck I see droplets in that area.

Picture from under coolant/oil plastic floor
 

I have the updated coolant cap with P/N 01 at the end. See att. a picture from under plastic floor under both coolant & oil caps. looks like there is some white stuff on bolts of that part that I don't know what is is, maybe a pressure relief valve. Does it sounds a leaking oring or something like that?

Thanks for your help.

Looks like you may have a bleeder valve O-ring seal that might need replacing. Or you may just need to tighten the screws a little. Take a look at this thread on Renntech: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=14754&hl=pressure+valve

I also don't really agree with Jaxonalden that it is normal to see condensation drops on top of the trunklid. That means some coolant is coming out somewhere (either the coolant cap or the bleeder valve), and it really shouldn't because it's supposed to be a closed system. I used to have a little condensation under my trunklid, and after I removed and retightened my coolant cap (real tight), the condensation never came back. I also checked my bleeder valve, and it was perfectly clean, so I knew there were no more leaks from that area.

Tolum,

My common sense explanation looks like it turned out to be nonsense. Sounded good though.

After reading Boxtaboy's post I went out to look at my ride. Luckily my 'old lady just got from town (had to take the Box because I just waxed it :mad: ). I tried tightening the cap and sure enough it turned 1/4 turn. I then opened it-Pssssst-removed the oil cap and plastic tray. The bleeder valve had white crusty crap all over it so I tried to tighten the screws before I removed it and they also were loose.

I cleaned everything, reassembled, topped off the burp tank and now I'll keep an eye on it. I feel that I won't have anymore problems with mine after the fixes.

Thanks for setting me straight Boxtaboy :cheers: , Tolum, I hope yours is a quick fix. BTW, what is the bleeder valve for?

P.S. The numbers under my valve are 6 11123, you said you had the -1 up-date. When was this update issued?

I did the same. Tighten the bolts. Will add Pofsche coolant tomorrow and keep an eye on that. If problem is not resolved, I will chnage both O rings.

Tks to all for the great help.

Thierry

Tolum,

Did you just tighten the screws or did you remove them, pull the valve off, clean both surfaces and then reassemble?

Glad I could help. Hope all turns out well for you guys. Oh, and the bleeder valve is used to burp the system of air when coolant is flushed from the system (ie. if you have to refill due to a replaced coolant tank or radiator) and it also releases pressure from the system if there is a build up of pressure, and some has to be let out. It is a good idea to not fill your coolant all the way up to the max line. Leave it a little below it, and you'll have less chance of some being pressured out of the system.