Oil Filler Tube Install
 

Has anyone replaced their oil filler tube? I ran a search and didn't see any DIY directions. Mine shows signs of leaking and I thinking I will replace it.

Bump on this one. I have to replace mine too. Warranty Co. will not cover it because its a "hose or rubber parts" :mad: How difficult is this?

Ill bump it too, I dont think i need one but i'd like to tackle this job when i do my AOS and fix my Secondary Air-injection bugs as preventative maintence.

Learn by doing I guess. The oil filler tube is made up of three seperate components. I replaced two of the three tubes. The one I did't replace is the L shaped plastic tube that connects the oil fill in the rear trunk. This tube ends just inside the engine compartment. I would highly recomment the Sears Craftsman tool to remove the spring clamps. Since I was also doing my RMS and had the tranny out, I did most of the work from underneath the car. It would be very different trying to do it from up above.

The picture below shows the middle tube on the trunk side with a flex (accordian) end.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_0453.jpg

The next picture is a continuation of the same tube that connects to the engine tube near the engine. The middle tube is the tube that is covered by a mesh sock. The mesh sock protects it from the engine heat. The sock has not been installed yet.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_0456.jpg

Be careful in removing this middle tube as it is very easy to break the ears of the tube that connects to the engine. This is what I did. The engine tube is quite fragile and has plastic ears that bolt to the engine block. Use a utility knify and carefully cut away the middle piece on the engine side.

I special ordered the engine piece and it should arrive from Sunset in 2-3 days. That piece will be harder to install as there is lots of obstacles near the intake manifold before you can get to the engine block and the connecting bolts, I will post pictures as I complete that installation.

Each plastic piece (there are 3 of them) are about $25 dollars each from Sunset. I purchasesd a $10.00 Sears Craftsman Tool to handle the clamps. What a tool. I don't know why I never purchased one earlier. Cheap I guess. If you are careful removing the middle tube from the engine tube, the middle tube is most likely the only tube you need to replace.

Good Luck!

Looking at that first picture gives me flashbacks from when I replaced the plastic coolant tank in the trunk 2 years ago.

The tube that connects to the engine has been vastly improved. The photo below shows the striking differences.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/IMG_0490.jpg


Also you can see one of the ears I broke off when trying to remove the middle hose. Again if your very careful, the middle tube is most likely the only tube of the three you will have to replace.

I removed the throttle body and the large tube that connects to the intake manifold to gain access to the engine mounts. The notches and grooves allow all the items to occupy there own space. It is a little difficult to get it situated between all the hoses and electrical but not bad. The screw that connects the ear on the passenger side was the hardest to reach and tighten.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/IMG_0493.jpg

Ditto!

The oil filler tube leaks can be a sign of the oil separator going out so keep an eye on it. When it goes out it sucks the oil filler tube almost flat. That closing/opening eventually causes a hole in the filler tube.

KBrandsma:

Excellent Photos and tips.

Thanks for sharing!

Regards, Maurice.

Tackled this today. The Sears tool works great! Definitely a tug of war to pull the old middle oil filler tube off. In doing so, I heard a faint crack. Hope it wasn't the ear on the filler tube piece connected to the engine block. I'll try to get in there to check it out tomorrow.

Did you do this from above....what does this tool look like???

Yes, from above. It was a pain to get to, up against the back firewall, to get that clamp off. Even with the right tool. And then it was a pain to pull the old tube off. Pulling off the rear took quite a bit of force, which is hard to do, since you can't get a good grip, and at a good angle, on the tube. The front, I feared breaking the section of tube off the engine, so after tugging on it for a while, I just used a razor and carefully cut a slit in it in order to pull it off.

The tool can be viewed/purchased from here: Cable Operated Hose Clamp Tool

Guys, I have recently (yesterday :)) replaced my oil filler tube - the one that goes from the trunk to the engine and has a corrugated section. The new tube I've ordered is a bit different from the original one and I know that Porsche has changed the part number for both the filling tube and the filling pipe. The filling pipe is а plastic 90-degree angled elbow that's bolted to the engine block.

Anyway, I was not able to fully push the new oil fill tube onto the original oil fill pipe. It is possible that the design has changed a bit and it's impossible now. It sits tight and I've put the original clamp on it, I don't think I have any air leaks. If I try to push harder I may break the oil fill pipe at the side of the engine and then it will hell of a lot of troubles to replace.

So my question to you guys, if you have replaced the tube were you able to fully push it onto the original filling pipe? And if yes - how? Thanks!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1392751814.jpg

my oil tube and/or pipe had a crack according to my mechanic. it was leaking oil up top and eventually running down to drip on the floor. They wanted $1500 to replace it, I opted to do it myself.
Was able to to get the old one off and the new one on by removing the throttle and resonance tube and disconnecting the alternator and moving it out of the way. Couldn't find the torque specs for those bolts so I erred on the side of caution, not wanting to break the new one. within 50 or so miles I see that is is leaking worse than ever. got back into the engine (after finding the torque specs online) and tightened the bolts up to spec. after about 50 more miles it still seems to be leaking. I can smell burning oil, see a little smoke after driving and there are usually about a teaspoon of oil on my garage floor the next day.
I have read about using dielectric grease to coat the tube before putting it into the engine. is this just a lubricant thing or does it help seal it?

I'm going to drive it for a while more and see (hopefully) that it is just residual oil on the engine, but I am not optimistic.

Anyone have any similar issues?

Was it residual or you had to redo the pipes?
 

I need to replace the oil hose, and want to make sure I do it right.

I ended up have to buy a new pipe because I broke the tab off of it trying to tighten the bolts.
Lubricate the o-ring with oil or grease to help it slip into the engine. make sure it is seated completely before installing the bolts. also, be careful not to over torque the bolts, they are aluminum and will snap off fairly easily.

I got rid of mine and plugged the hole on top of the block with an expansion freeze plug, now I fill oil thru my custom AOS and got rid of the problem all together, also deleted the dipstick and now there is a short one mounted on the block so there are no obstructive plastic tubes for any of these two items.

And that is the best mod !
Has anybody followed Stelan's example ? Did you all see his excellent annotated diagram of the installation?

I just found out I have the same problem. I would like to follow Stelan's modification but I can't find the drawing or pictures. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

Stelan's AOS does not work well unfortunately - Fuel Trim problems. And worse Stelan seems to have disappeared with the money people sent him for his alternative to the AOS.