HP, how much can a LIL 2.5L take? How do they Blow?

[pk2]

Originally Posted by Gary in BR

I am glad its you trying to figure out the WI. It sounds like you are going to get great gains from the research I have read.

Is there so much work involved with the tuning ...get some boost and power increases because the turbos can spool faster. In the 996tt there is a power gain by removing the cats. In a few weeks we will know if a 986tt has the same effect.

If I dont get and power gains and just get some sound back, the turbos have muffled my sound a little. I will be happy with just the sound. I need my car to be a little louder to live up to the sinaster license plate.

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Hey Gary,

So you noticed my quest for the ultimate WI setup (had to join a bunch rice burner forums to get the dope).

Tuning is going to be a little trick. It’s really only as complicated as you want to make it though. Ideally you want about a 13% H2O/meth to fuel ratio throughout the RPM/load range.

I don’t know how critical the actual mix is though. The cheaper setups just turn the spigot wide open at a set RPM/load level (not really where I’m headed). 3 steps up, the H2O/meth is metered with the precision of a PWM/fuel injector (probably overkill but its where I’m at).

The EGT gauge is the best method I think for tuning. If you’re a AFR is good but the exhaust is to hot so is your combustion chamber, so more H2O/meth. If it’s still to hot & you’ve O.D.’d on H2O/meth, tweak the timing back.

I see it only getting really messy when you go over 50/50 H2O/meth mix, then your coolant becomes a fuel too. I think 30/70 is a good mix.

Makes sense on your exhaust since you’ve changed the dynamics so much on the intake side. For a stock, normally aspirated engines though, from what I’ve gleaned, Porsche pretty much has it nailed. A lot of exhaust setups give minuscule improvement at best, some are actually worse. But loud is fun

Be really interested as to how yours works out as I hope to nipping at your heels soon.

Regards,

PK

[Gary in BR]

The WI seems like the future of modding.
JAAY turned me on to it a few months ago and I have done a little research but I dont have the bravado to dig into it to the degree you have. Some of the 996TT owners have ventured into the WI experiments, but none to the point of finishing the setup. Its exciting to witness other forms of increasing power coming over from other makes into the Porsche world. These sort of groundbreaking experiments are good for all of us.

I agree with you about opeing my exhaust more. with the turbos in the mix removing the cats will have a larger effect on my car that NA cars. As usual I will have a pre and post dyno run made. and I will go as far as dynoing the car in various states of open cutout.

Isn't all of this modding fun. As I have said a thousand times. Im not a drunk, I dont gamble and I dont cheat on my wife. I just mod my car to the brink of sanity. EDIT: brink of sanity and a bigtoe into the insane.

[pk2]

Originally Posted by Topless

PK,
Richard brought his 914 to the PCA breakfast today for show and tell. Air cooled 3.1L 6cyl, turbo with intercooler, 500rwhp, 1600 lbs soaking wet. Whew! That thing will easily outrun a Viper in a straight line and corner like a Cup Car.

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Holy sh__.

Is that the one on his web site? My First Porsche (or v-dub)was a 914. Always pined for a 914-6, though 500whp never crossed my mind (is it air-cooled?).

I knew a guy in school who had one with a V8. He’d actually pop spot welds allover the place (torque). After a night of horsing around, he’d come home with the whole car creaking like and old wooden floor.

To your point though, why is it such a challenge to milk meaningful HP out of these Boxsters. I guess though Richard undoubtedly started with all the best from the ground up, while we’re just strapping stuff on the outside.

I talked to him (Richard) briefly the other day, nice guy, to nice to pester with all my questions. If I catch him at one of the PCA events I will though.

Regards, PK

[pk2]

EGT sensors in and working. Whoopee. Been real busy, small hurdle. Put 2 in, one for each bank. Turns out they fit neatly right behind cylinders 1 & 4 (and after all the other pipes have dumped in of course). Convenient because, in at least supercharged applications, # 1 cylinder gets the hottest.

It works fine with gauge I got with it but I got an EGT sensor amplifier that puts out a standard 0-5v signal that can be plugged into any box with data /reading/logging (a standard type “K” EGT sensor puts out mere millivolts). Contemplated remapping signal and outputting the signal to drive my still congealing WI (H2O/meth) setup.

It seems Ideal, more heat, more WI. But the signal seems a little sluggish registering (on the gauge anyway). Wideband O2’s also all put together, have yet to install it because I’m not clear on how to feed it back into the ECU to emulate the narrow band it replaces.

Also picked a far more versatile AIC which realistically will map & run my WI in addition #7 injector & timing. It’s a complete blank slate though, trying to figure out some pretty arcane setup values.

Anyway, wire O2 wideband in, program AIC and make it go with existing setup and WI…then in goes smaller pulley on SC & retune. Probably need a larger 7th injector but this things weird, somehow it’s modded with thread at both ends.
Regards,

PK

[Gary in BR]

PK,

You mention wire the wideband in your last post.

Does the Boxster come with a wideband or narrow band O2??

[pk2]

Originally Posted by Gary in BR

PK,

You mention wire the wideband in your last post.

Does the Boxster come with a wideband or narrow band O2??

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Hey Gary,

O2 sensor; If it does, It’s not one I could use (I really don’t think it is). Stock is 4 wires +,-, signal & grnd. The widebands I know about are 5 or 6 leads.

The Bosch LSU type my controller/ gauge requires has 5 leads to a plug, the controller has 6 ( one terminates at the plug into an internal resistor or somthing). They can be pricey but, not bad at Amazon for $65.

The difference (If you don’t know) is a stock narrow band basically trips at some “above or below” voltage point. Wideband doesn’t trip, It just translates 0-5v into 0 to 20 (or something) AFR units.

My controller remaps and outputs a narrowband signal to emulate original feedback, just like the original narrow band, to feed into the ECU. Saves welding a separate bung.

Hope that word missive helps.

Regards, PK