6 Months ago I would have been "only occasionally" but just recently it clicked for me. One thing that helped was getting a pedal extension (that I am about to take off, I don't need it anymore) and the other thing was getting a Fanatec Porsche GT2 wheel and pedals and 6 speed shifter and practicing on the Xbox. Before I went down to Sebring in May I ran a ton of laps, and while many things are different in a simulator, one thing that it helped me with was doing lots of heel toe downshifting and getting lots of repetition to help me get the groove. And if I messed up there are no consequences in the simulator. And I did spin a time or two when I popped the clutch off without getting a sufficient rev.

Before this I had a hard time getting my left foot to lift off the clutch while my right foot was still down.

I'm working on it. I can get the pedal coordination but getting the Revs matching high enough on the first punch is the problem. My throttle response some times takes two taps to get revs to match

The harder you push on the brake, the better the heel/toe feels. On the track its almost perfect, since you are really pushing the brake hard, but on the street the gas pedal is still too low relative to the brake.

Hurley Haywood teaching a newbie.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YqYeusE8ksk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I don't really heel toe. I brake with the ball of my foot and flip the gas pedal with the toe and edge of my foot. I am very consistent but mostly only use it on the track.

I can't left foot brake the car accelerator doesn't work if the brake is pushed in any amount.

Practice. Practice. Practice.

I do it similar to jsceash - ball of foot on brake and hit the gas with the outer edge of my foot. Its more of a roll of the foot than heel and toe.

I always do it when i am down shifting to a stop, very easy to do

If I'm coming to a stop I don't bother with heel and toe. Just more clutch wear. If I am downshifting for a corner I h&t.

Wearing the right shoe is key.

Get some driving mocs or Puma Speedcat or Piloti.

Lwfw helps as you need less of a blip to raise the revs quickly. Or a cheaper way, do the clutch switch mod, gives sharper throttle response.

I've never had any issues with heel and toe-ing in my boxster. I think the pedal set up is amazing and very well positioned.

If you're having a hard time getting the motion of it watch Senna do it. :cheers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96ekbvjyr0g

I agree I can do it in flip flops, bare feet, track shoes, sneakers or dress shoes. I found that when driving in the rain it's a indispensable tool.

I can never watch this video too many times.

Why is he pumping the throttle in the middle of what looks like the slow the corners?

He is modulating the throttle for the amount of traction he has I think

It's was a carry over From his Turbo days... jabbing the throttle was his signature move to keep the boost up.

LwFw? What does this mean?

Leichtgewicht Schwungrad= Lightweight Flywheel ;)

Like many, I have found my 986 to be difficult to heel and toe with. Driving my car about once per week at best though isn't helping practice time.

I find the engine is sluggish to build revs quickly during the blip, and the throttle pedal (at least mine) almost has a stickyness and stiffness to it. The other difficulty is that the pedal placement only seems to work when you're deep into the brakes. Which I can appreciate and understand that Porsche took that route when deciding how to set the pedal relationship up (hard driving / track use). So the harder I drive it, the easier the H&T becomes.

For me the shoes that work the best are something that is wide but has thin soles. I find that my Sparco/Puma driving shoes are too slim and rounded. I have found Adidas Gazelles to provide a good combination of width and thinness.

Easiest car I've driven to accomplish smooth and consistent and crisp H&T are Mazda RX-8s. They build revs quickly, the throttle has a very direct response, and the pedals are well placed. It seemed also to somehow work equally well in light driving and hard driving. Even better with a Mazdaspeed exhaust fitted, as it provides sharp audible feedback that barks nicely when you rip off a few crisp sequential downshifts.

That makes sense. Thanks.

I feel the with the 3.2l motor revs build plenty quick. For me it was getting the GT3 console delete that made all the difference. At 6'4" it was just plain ackward with the extra room.