WTB: Black 6 speed shift knob, door pocket lid
 

Looking for either the thicker tequipment style knob that has the silver ring around the boot or the leather GT3 knob. Can't believe the price of these things new so that's why I'm asking here.

Also looking for a drivers side door pocket lid, black as well. Mine is peeling and I'd like to tidy the interior up a bit.

Bump bump.

Shift knob - consider checking out eBay. Sometimes there are some halfway decent options. Many, very amazingly worn out ones, too. (And, a few amazingly expensive ones.). You might just hit the jackpot, though.

For peeling map pocket door, consider DIY refinishing with SEM Color Coat Satin Black rattle can. Remove the old one, peel off old finish completely (it peels very easily).

In my experience, the SEM satin black is a very good color match for the 2001+ soft-touch black interior finish, and will be somewhat more durable than the factory map-pocket door finish (which scratches and peels if you look at it wrong.)

I had issues using solvent-based adhesion promoters on the "ABS+PC" map pocket doors, so suggest you skip those if you want to prevent headaches. Do try and be careful not to scratch the after you refinish.

In all likelihood, if you found a used 2001+ map pocket door, it's likely going to be scratched, IMO. (This is why I suggest refinishing rather than buying another used one.)

+1 on this. Refinish. Do both at the same time whether the other needs it or not.

Great info! Where can one buy - SEM Color Coat Satin Black? Thanks!

My local professional autobody supply store had it in stock (along with many other SEM and other pro-quality auto finishing products). Here is a link to their main corporate page - they are west-coast based.
https://wescopbe.com

When I needed more cans on a weekend, I found my local auto part store was able to special order it next day from their regional warehouse:
SEM Products Color Coat 15243 - Satin Black Color Coat Paint | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Amazon also sells it, but it seems to cost more that way and if you are tackling a big job, it sure it nice to be able to get more cans locally.
http://www.amazon.com/Products-15243-Color-Black-2c-Aerosol/dp/B00FMS8N0E

Summit lists it very very cheaply as well - shipping is additional, as think.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smm-15243

I don't recommend it (at least, not alone) for high wear areas, like door sill trim. Not durable enough. :( I wish I did a 2-part matte clear coat over the top down there (where your shoes can easily scuff up), and on the pieces behind you where the seat belts can snap back and scratch, and also on the power seat control trim (which you can also scuff with your foot getting in/out if not careful). On the plus side, the SEM color coat is really easy to work with probably easy to touch up - removing and preparing some pieces can just be a hassle, though.

Stripping the original finish is very difficult on some of these parts (door sill trim, especially!), however, like I said before, it's very easy to strip the finish on the map door pockets. Best technique I found is to use a plastic razor blade.

I do recommend the adhesion promoter on most of the other pieces (mostly all ABS), but the map door pockets didn't like it at all. It seems many of these plastic interior pieces are made by different manufacturers with different plastic compositions and processes, so they don't all refinish the same way. One of the two adhesion promoters I tried:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smm-38363

If you use adhesion promoter, be sure to remove all the old finish, and even on some pieces that have clearcoat-style adhesion promoter/primer, all the old clearcoat primer. Otherwise, it can swell and wrinkle the old remnants, and this will ruin the texture, so you'll then need to strip it all off and redo it.

(Maybe the reason the map pocket doors scratch and peel so easily is that the factory also didn't use any adhesion promoter or primer when originally finishing them?)

Great info, Jakeru, thanks!

Thanks for the info. I read somewhere that you can strip the old finish off by running them through the dishwasher. Have you tried that? As for the shifter, I've been looking on ebay but haven't had much luck. They're all either really beat up or super super expensive.

Cover
 

I have a NEW drivers side door panel cover

Part#98655562100B12

$40+Shipping

So close! I think yours is for the 97-99 but I'm after the newer version. My fault for not specifying.

Covers
 

I tried, It looks like I have both sides....

Dishwasher didn't work any better for me than just running the part under warm/hot water trickle for me while scraping. (Dishwasher cycle also takes quite a long time, and can upset the spousal unit, I wouldn't especially recommend it. :) )

In any event, removing the soft touch finish from the map pocket doors isn't hard. It's just not adhered very well. By contrast, removing the soft touch finish from some of the other components, like the sill trim, is extremely difficult, and although I tried many things, found there was no silver bullet that made it easy as pie. If I could try over again, I might try soaking in dot3 brake fluid. (I did try dot4, didn't do a whole lot).

If youre looking to make it easier, get some plastic razor blades - they're the single most helpful thing I found for removing the soft-touch from the more difficult pieces. Especially a sharp plastic razor blade. But seriously, for just the map pocket doors, removing the soft-touch finish is easy, no matter how you do it. Run under warm water and scrape with your fingernail or a plastic razor blade. Follow up with a scotchbrite pad scuffing to get off any remaining remnants - if needed. Or even just rub them dry with your fingernail or razor blade and/or scotchbrite pad. The water helps wash away the little bits, though. Plug the sink and you can collect and dispose of all the plastic finish bits/pieces that settle easily after. I recommend trying to go for a "peeling action" with fingernail or plastic razor blade to quickly remove all the old finish. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the tips. I think I'm going to have to go that route if I can't find a cheap one soon!

Bump. Anyone have some lids kicking around before I have to resort to stripping mine?

Revising this old thread ...
 

... which popped up during a search of "painting map pocket doors".

Like probably everyone else here, my map pocket doors are worn with a number of surface scratches.

My question: Is it really necessary to strip off the old coating prior to spray painting it anew?

Seems like, if the original coating is adhering well, you ought to be able to just freshen it up by painting over it?

Thanks - DM

The quality of a finish to a large degree, comes down to the quality of the prep work.

Do you believe the original finish on your map pocket doors is adhering well?

Certainly didn't seem to be adhering well in my case (2001), as it could be easily peeled off with a fingernail. (It was also pretty easy to strip off.) Best of luck!

WTB: Black 6 speed shift knob, door pocket lid
 

Is it possible to fit a 996 map pocket lid to a boxster? Im not looking to sell you one. I have a wood map pocket lid from 986 that is chipping really bad. I would give you. I'm not sure it would be advisable to paint that one or not as the wood grain is thick and chips off in fairly thick chunks. It may take me a few days to find it as I have recently moved. I also have some shift knobs. I will need to find the box they are in to let you know what i have in 6 speed. I have some new and some used, plus a couple of wood grain ones., one light wood practicaliy new and a more used root wood color. It is scratched up but modtly on north side on knob


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