Hood re-spray needed what’s the going rate?
 

Ok, I don’t know what the previous owner did, but my seal gray hood is a mess! Clear coat appears missing and looks like someone took a can of Krylon to it... underside looks fine no visible issues.

I can’t wrap because this is certainly not OEM for adhesive qualities so it is a re-spray to the factory seal gray color with clear.

Not too worried about any slight shade mismatch with twenty year old fenders and bumper; I really don’t want the entire front painted due to cost. Anyone out there have any ideas how much this will cost me? I know materials are not cheap I’d even remove the hood and drop off somewhere if that will help lower the price.

Anyone have anything like this done and what did it set you back?

Thanks for any insight!

I’m about to do same including bumper.
Any good “how to” remove hood?

I have not done my YouTube removal search yet - did get a quote yesterday for two coats paint and one clear applied little over $500. Shop reports that materials have skyrocketed and getting a good finish costs them more.

Not sure how I feel about cost I was hoping more like $300 may just wait a few months and see how car mechanically holds up before cosmetic investment. 🤷🏻

Hoods are easy to paint IMPO. Its a good place to start DIY painting.


1) Sand the crap out of it till its smooth at 300 grit finish.

2) Pick up a HF $15 spray gun. (you mentioned not needing a concourse finish the HF gun does the trick)

3) Go to your local automotive paint supplier and pick up a pint of base and a pint of clear. Should be in the ball park of $100. No need for primer; you are going with the same color and you aren't fixing dents.

4) Spray base. The only difficult part here is that I believe seal grey is a metallic; so you can't color sand. You need to do some youtubing or get a more experienced painter to show you how to spray a control coat. Basically once you get the color you want you dust on some base coat; it makes the sparkles you see in the paint stand up.

5) Spray clear. Dust on your first coat. Then a little heavier on the second flash. Then HAMMER DOWN. Cause you're painting the hood on a table or a flat surface you can almost pour the clear on. The leveling compounds take out any imperfections. I typically get two coats of light spray then slam two more coats on top of it.


Worst case scenario if you do it yourself you take it to a body shop and have them do it. They won't hold it against you if you tried and failed painting it; I wouldn't if you walked in my shop like that.

[QUOTE=Qingdao;629188]Hoods are easy to paint IMPO. Its a good place to start DIY painting.


1) Sand the crap out of it till its smooth at 300 grit finish.

2) Pick up a HF $15 spray gun. (you mentioned not needing a concourse finish the HF gun does the trick)

3) Go to your local automotive paint supplier and pick up a pint of base and a pint of clear. Should be in the ball park of $100. No need for primer; you are going with the same color and you aren't fixing dents.

4) Spray base. The only difficult part here is that I believe seal grey is a metallic; so you can't color sand. You need to do some youtubing or get a more experienced painter to show you how to spray a control coat. Basically once you get the color you want you dust on some base coat; it makes the sparkles you see in the paint stand up.

5) Spray clear. Dust on your first coat. Then a little heavier on the second flash. Then HAMMER DOWN. Cause you're painting the hood on a table or a flat surface you can almost pour the clear on. The leveling compounds take out any imperfections. I typically get two coats of light spray then slam two more coats on top of it.


Worst case scenario if you do it yourself you take it to a body shop and have them do it. They won't hold it against you if you tried and failed painting it; I wouldn't if you walked in my shop like that.[/QUOTE

300 grit is way too course for a base coat clear coat paint. Not as easy as you described. Also when you screw it up and take it to a Reputable shop they will charge more to undo your work

:confused: They'll charge more to fix it? Like they weren't gonna sand it down before? He wrote something about some shady Krylon additions.

I don't imagine this guy is going for a 5ft job. He mentioned that it didn't matter if the paint didn't match the bumper.

I suppose if you wanna do it right you could sand it down to primer, skim it with bondo, re primer, sand, guide coat, sand (400 or whatever), base coat, tack, clear, flow coat it.... But why? Its a boxster; it should be out there getting rock chips anyways.


Auto painting could be difficult for you, but regardless of the difficulty its a good place to get your feet wet. If the O.P. finds out painting isn't for him; he's only out $100 and a couple of hours. I mean he was gonna take the hood off to begin with.

Along with the $15 paint gun and paint, he's going to need a reliable air source, mask, misc expendables, and a ventilated place to paint that is about 70 degrees F. I still think DIY painting is a great skill to develop.

Watch plenty of Youtube and it isn't hard to learn. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYB4Yxeq_M8

Speaking of resprays (and sorry, don’t mean to hijack)...

Is this salvageable by a good detailer or will I have to get these panels repainted? The car was neglected, I’m guessing left out in the sun for long periods.

https://i.ibb.co/txZPmG3/E9174240-B1...B8-FCAEBD4.jpg https://i.ibb.co/5x7CPxc/29-DC347-C-...AC3-B865-C.jpg https://i.ibb.co/GCBCP66/BB0-C4-D13-...8135965-A5.jpg https://i.ibb.co/jRDyqNW/0-E66-EA7-A...DAD5243-D9.jpg https://i.ibb.co/3NjKJbb/74-FEDBF6-9...70-F6-F177.jpg

Don’t mean to hijack, but speaking of resprays... can this clear coat damage (?) be fixed or will I need a repaint?

https://i.ibb.co/0FBVD7Q/E9174240-B1...B8-FCAEBD4.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/2tCJbrr/74-FEDBF6-9...70-F6-F177.jpg


https://ibb.co/txZPmG3 https://ibb.co/5x7CPxc https://ibb.co/GCBCP66 https://ibb.co/jRDyqNW https://ibb.co/3NjKJbb

Repaint. It might be ok for some, but it'll never look 100% if you just toss more clear on it.

That’s the thing... I don’t need it to be perfect, just not glaringly obvious.

(It’s done living in the South so I’m not as concerned about future damage and I got it cheap. It’s a driver, never going to be a concours car and I’m fine with that.)

Then you can sand off the clear and re-clear it.

If it were me I'd sand the clear completely off the affected panel. Then dust on a coat of base. Then clear as normal.

Problem here is that this is a pretty advanced technique. Not a first time DIY thing. If you do take it to a professional shop they are probably going to advise a complete re-spray of the car; I mean the clear is thin here it is probably thin on the whole car. You might be able to find an independent to re-clear it for you.

In that case you can't sand the clear coat down. The metallic color below will not look even after that. Needs to be repainted - color and clear.